3D Solex Matchless, tricks and tips please!

[paul9 20]

IMPORTANT APPLICATION NOTE:

V3 BLOCK from 3D Solex may leak!  Unfortunately, Some custiomers have received a V3 Block, where the top around the filament entry hole (where the steel couplers is entered), is shiny and "chromey".  

In this case there is an increased chance of leak between the Teflon and the Block V3, unfortunately.

If you have this version, please contact 3D Solex to have a replacement shipped asap.

 

How can I tell if I have this version or not?

I can notice it before you mount it?

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

 

IMPORTANT APPLICATION NOTE:

V3 BLOCK from 3D Solex may leak!  Unfortunately, Some custiomers have received a V3 Block, where the top around the filament entry hole (where the steel couplers is entered), is shiny and "chromey".  

In this case there is an increased chance of leak between the Teflon and the Block V3, unfortunately.

If you have this version, please contact 3D Solex to have a replacement shipped asap.

 

How can I tell if I have this version or not?

I can notice it before you mount it?

 

By reading @Swordriff 's post carefully, especially the passage I emphased...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

The shinyness is very clear....

Carl. Thanks for sending me a replacement.

[neotko 1,417]

With the magazine that looks like a crime photo !

[ultiarjan 1,223]

With the magazine that looks like a crime photo !

 

yeahhh sure... that's real blood....

Nahh Was just reading a newspaper when I made that photo.....

[chrisw 70]

If you have this version, please contact 3D Solex to have a replacement shipped asap.

 

I have a pair of BV3's with chromey tops like that. I figured the leaking after initial installation was caused by inadequate pressure, so I just tightened the isolators and both stopped leaking. Perhaps that high pressure won't be good for the plastic couplers in the long run though. I'll contact the dealer.

These blocks print great in any case. Filament manufacturers and 3D Printing retail companies should be pushing this BV3 block hard because users like me burn through spools of filament at a much-accelerated rate after installation. Thanks for the great invention.

[swordriff 119]

I had trouble using the MATCHLESS BLOCK with I2K, since they have two hard surfaces against each other. My reco is not us I2k, unless you have the V3 with a "rubbed" surface ring around the filament entry hole. Sorry, I guess this is the sort of trouble which first movers must experience... hehe.. Now; extra pressure on the Teflon stops any leaks, but CAN shorten the life of the TEFLON.. I guess...

Im using the Bondtech feeder, and with the fenomenal extra pressure it will leak between teflon and Block without extra pressure from top.

To be totally safe, stay with the UM2+ "Olsson Block" which is not known to leak in this place.

[paul9 20]

Do you think this also has to be replaced?

[paul9 20]

[swordriff 119]

surface should be more rough!

read my mail please and try it!

[gr5 2,167]

I'm the reseller in the USA. The ones @chrisw have were modified by @swordriff. I actually physically brought it to Norway - @swordriff removed some chrome and then I brought it back to USA before shipping to @chrisw. However maybe he didn't remove enough? You could see some brass and some chrome at the same time like it was "half removed".

I don't understand why this makes any difference anyway. I know chrome is harder than brass but teflon is much softer than either. Why would chrome make any difference? maybe the edge is more rounded and lets a little bit of pressurized filament creep in?

[chrisw 70]

To be totally safe, stay with the UM2+ "Olsson Block" which is not known to leak in this place.

Yeah right... remove it? Hah! I don't want to detach this BV3. It's working great. I'm using Bondtech feeders too, and creating lots of pressure.

[chrisw 70]

You could see some brass and some chrome at the same time like it was "half removed".

Good point. Like I said, these blocks are working well for me after tightening of the isolators. How about if I just keep these BV3s and let's see where this goes. Would a little filing of the top surface with a rough file help those parts mate?

[swordriff 119]

If you put (surprisingly coarse, 200-400) paper on the table and then grind the end where the filament enters into it, you will remove the top layers and soon see the brass beneath,

The pores and ridges, tiny grooves are super "bite" for the UM teflon!

[bob-hepple 59]

I will be sanding?? down my Block over the weekend and hoping to fit, I am glad I am aware of the issue before I fit, would it be better to leave the i2K out of the equation??. Would it be better to mount the Block in Lathe and take a cut off the face, say 0.15mm??

[swordriff 119]

You have meanwhile been shipped a new one!

Dont take of 0.15, it is way too much, but will not hurt, since you can adjust the steel coupler!

Edited July 27, 2016 by Guest

[bob-hepple 59]

Thank You Very much appreciated

[swordriff 119]

I think you should try meanwhile! Just get rid of the shiny alloy.

then you will have two, haha! Good for the upcoming Dual by @foensturm, and others..

[bob-hepple 59]

That's interesting swordriff I am hoping to meet Bondtech at the TCT Show, I know they have a stand will you be there. also looking at the BCN3d Sigma.. Really want the Dual Head Machine..

Will get rid of the Shiny Alloy on the Plateau,, if I do would that make the block not leak???

[Kevparang 10]

Although I have a RoBo3D, my friend did not have a good time with burned nozzle, I would not recommend it.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Although I have a RoBo3D, my friend did not have a good time with burned nozzle, I would not recommend it.

 

Can you please explain? What do you not recommend?

Edited July 30, 2016 by Guest

[Kevparang 10]

The mechanism and the whole thing it is not worth it.

[IRobertI 520]

The mechanism and the whole thing it is not worth it.

 

What mechanism? What are you talking about?

[Kevparang 10]

Sorry the matchless block.

[IRobertI 520]

Sorry the matchless block.

 

And what was the problem your friend had with the matchless block? Just saying "I can't recommend it" is not helpful. And did he use it with an Ultimaker or some other printer? The block was designed for the Ultimaker2/2+.