Jump to content

Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

Hi,

I have just a small question: I found a lot of posts with information how to change a hot end on UMO/UMO+ to (for example) E3D V6 . But I don't understand what the reason is?  Is it general better as the standard hot end, more quality or something else?

Thank you!

Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    The main argument to go for eg. a E3Dv6 as you mention, which is a all-metal hotend, is the increased operating temperature range which will allow you to print different materials, especially some that require higher temperatures to extrude properly, than what your normal Ultimaker Hotend (and its non-metal components) can handle.

    I also find my E3D hotends to (once assembled correctly) be more reliable than my old UMO hotend ever was, less clogging, easier maintenance etc.

    Then there is their very large (and still growing) variety of hotend types, nozzle types and sizes, fixtures, wrappings and what-not, that make their products super slick and versatile.

    I now have several different hotends from E3D (a normal v6 with a large variety of nozzles from 0.25 to 0.8 mm., a vulcano hotend with a variety of nozzles from 0.8 to 1.2 mm., and a v5 that I keep as spare), swapping between them and their nozzles is quick and painless, and lets you do more things with your printer.

    That said, It did take a bad reocurring clog in my original hotend for me to do the switch to E3D, but I have not looked back since.

    Edited by Guest
    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    • 2 weeks later...
    Posted · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Do you use 1.75 or 3 mm version? with Bowden?

     

    I use 3 mm. (technically, its 2.85), as it is the default ultimaker size, so I didn't have to fiddle with a new 1.75mm., feeder and what else might be required to switch filament thickness.

    I also use bowden yes... Again, it is simpler than switching to a direct feed (and the UM machines, really are made for light non-bulky printheads... its some of what it does best)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    aaaand do you have no problem with PLA? (I read in several topics on this forum that E3Dv6 is not really good choose for PLA)

     

    Ah yes... The good old claim that E3D hotends cant print PLA... Heard that plenty too ;)

    I don't know what to tell you... I printed tons of PLA through my E3Ds and never had problems with that... The best I can tell, from what I have read from people who claim to have trouble, is that it comes down to assembly errors.

    E3D have some pretty specific but very clear (and not that complex) instructions on how to assemble their hotends, and these have to be followed, to the letter... after that, its smooth sailing.

    Most commonly, I think people miss/skip/fail the step of heating up the newly assembled hotend to ~270 degrees and tightening the nozzle while hot to form a good seal against the heatbreak.

    That... And improper cooling of the heatsink.

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?
    Most commonly, I think people miss/skip/fail the step of heating up the newly assembled hotend to ~270 degrees and tightening the nozzle while hot to form a good seal against the heatbreak.

    Well, that part, and the fact that you have to do it with two tools is honestly a design flaw... it makes it way harder to swap nozzles than it have to be (look at the Olsson block, heat it to a bit over 100c, unscrew the nozzle and screw the new one in with ~0.5Nm torque, and you will be fine, with one single tool)

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    One single tool or not ... but now I need change PTFE coupler every 100-200 print hours... it's no go for me.

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Well for umo, 3dsolex sells a coupler made in TFM (they called TFT) and if works like the couplers on um2+ then it should last 500-2000h

    I changed all my umo+ printers to um2+ hotend so I never tested that.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    You really have to be abusing that poor PTFE coupler, i have been nowere close 100h for replacement when running UMO, and with my new UM2+ i have over 800 hours on the TFM coupler with barely visible signs of wear when looking at the TFM.

    Also, i do think the UMO hotend is flawed for the same reason... it is just that the E3D V6 has had a lot more iterations and should have the nozzle change fixed by now...

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    At first, thank you alot for your opinions and answers!

    Is there may be other hot ends on the market or E3Dv6 is only one approved alternative?

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Well @neotko put an Ultimaker 2 print head on his UMO+ and I think he detailed that process elsewhere in the forum.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Yes, I read it but if I understood correctly, the problem with the changing of a coupler is still here. As soon I start to print with PC or ASA (required 270) the lifespan of this part will dramatically shorten ... Other point is the price. The Upgrade KIT costs something about 500Euro (!). Full assemled E3Dv6  - 67 Euro.

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    I have also done exactly that (mounted a UM2 printhead to a UMO), and am happy with it.

    But yes, if you are printing at 270 continuously and dont care for PLA, then you should either use a All-metal hotend or a UM2 printhead with the new coupler and a isolator like the I2K from 3DSolex, or a custom coupler like the IPM or the PBI ones.

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Soo, I have already installed E3D and actually I'm satisfied with it. But what I don't understand: why one part of the thing is overheated?

    IMG_1334.thumb.jpg.49487ecc9e0ed44bb876f17a576e6278.jpg

    Material: ABS

    Speed: 60 mm/s

    Nozzle: 240C

    Bett: 100C

    All other sides of it seem to be ok.... hm ...

    IMG_1334.thumb.jpg.49487ecc9e0ed44bb876f17a576e6278.jpg

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Could it be that the "handle part" (melted part) is slow to print so the head spends a lot of time over that position and thus melts it?

    You do seem to have a lot of extra heat cartridge sticking out...

    What happens if you rotate the model 180 degrees around the z axis and print again with same settings?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Why to change hot end on UMO/UMO+ ?

    Could it be that the "handle part" (melted part) is slow to print so the head spends a lot of time over that position and thus melts it?

     

    I don't think so because slicer (in this case - S3D) calculates time for whole layer and not for each perimeter. And the layers are big enough.

     

    You do seem to have a lot of extra heat cartridge sticking out...

     

    It's original UMO+  heat cartridge. From other side of block it stick out too. Maybe it's a good idea to take also original UMO+ heat block? but I'm not sure.

     

    What happens if you rotate the model 180 degrees around the z axis and print again with same settings?

     

    I will try.

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • Introducing Universal Cura Projects in the UltiMaker Cura 5.7 beta
        Strap in for the first Cura release of 2024! This 5.7 beta release brings new material profiles as well as cloud printing for Method series printers, and introduces a powerful new way of sharing print settings using printer-agnostic project files! Also, if you want to download the cute dinosaur card holder featured below, it was specially designed for this release and can be found on Thingiverse! 
          • Like
        • 10 replies
      • S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
        (Sorry, was out of office when this released)

        This update is for...
        All UltiMaker S series  
        New features
         
        Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...