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adz123

Help, warping prints

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Hi guys,

I have an original Ultimaker with a heated bed and single extruder.

I am having an issue with warping (see attached photo)

Current settings are:

Cura

Quality:

Layer height: 0.1

shell thickness 0.8

Enable retraction [Y]

Fill:

Bottom/top thickness 0.6

Fill density 20

Speed/ Temp:

Print speed 50

Print temp 220° (PLA)

Bed temp 75°

Support:

support type Everywhere

Platform adhesion type Brim

Filament:

Diameter 2.85

Flow 100%

Machine:

Nozzle size 0.4

Advanced settings

Retraction:

Speed 40mm/s

Distance 4.5mm

Quality:

Initial layer thickness 0.3

Initial layer line width 100%

cut off object 0

Dual extrusion n/a

Speed

Travel speed 150 mm/s

Bottom layer speed 20 mm/s

Infill speed 80 mm/s

Top/bottom speed 15 mm/s

Outer shell speed 30 mm/s

Inner shell speed 60 mm/s

Cool

Minimal layer time 5 secs

Enable cooling fan [y]

I have tried running the PLA at 230° with the same issue

Any help would be much appreciated :-)

Many thanks

Adzprint_1.thumb.jpg.b724a916a10653687c12a17150489ca4.jpg[/media][/media]

print_1.thumb.jpg.b724a916a10653687c12a17150489ca4.jpg

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Strange photo, the rhs is almost perfect, apart from the warp and the LHS is a mess! There are various things wrong with your settings – I am not sure if they will fully fix the warp, as I find it difficult to interpret the geometry from the pic but make some changes and that will get you on the way.

Fill: bottom/top thickness – with a layer height of .1 over 20% infill 6 layers are not enough. I suggest you set it to 12, 10 might do.

Extruder temp.: 220c is too hot for layer height of .1 and 50 mm/s. Try 200c. If you see under extrusion then raise it 5 degrees. If it looks fine you might want to try 195c. I rarely use .1 and 50 so I am not sure what the optimum temp will be, but not 220!

Bed temp: too hot. Take it down to 60c. You do not mention using adhesive but with a brim you should be OK. How big is the surface area sitting on the bed? If it does not stick then raise it in 5 degree steps.

Print speed; ah I see your print speed is not 50. OK with the exception of travel speed and 1st layer speed - choose somewhere between 30-50 and keep all the speeds the same. If you chose 30 I would definitely drop the extruder temp to 195, probably better at 190.

Cooling: you do no mention fan %, I am a bit lazy on this and always use 100% with PLA.

Are we looking at the bottom surface of the model?

Is the lhs higher than the rhs, i.e. not sitting on the bed?

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Strange photo, the rhs is almost perfect, apart from the warp and the LHS is a mess! There are various things wrong with your settings – I am not sure if they will fully fix the warp, as I find it difficult to interpret the geometry from the pic but make some changes and that will get you on the way.

Fill: bottom/top thickness – with a layer height of .1 over 20% infill 6 layers are not enough. I suggest you set it to 12, 10 might do.

Extruder temp.: 220c is too hot for layer height of .1 and 50 mm/s. Try 200c. If you see under extrusion then raise it 5 degrees. If it looks fine you might want to try 195c. I rarely use .1 and 50 so I am not sure what the optimum temp will be, but not 220!

Bed temp: too hot. Take it down to 60c. You do not mention using adhesive but with a brim you should be OK. How big is the surface area sitting on the bed? If it does not stick then raise it in 5 degree steps.

Print speed; ah I see your print speed is not 50. OK with the exception of travel speed and 1st layer speed -  choose somewhere between 30-50 and keep all the speeds the same. If you chose 30 I would definitely drop the extruder temp to 195, probably better at  190.

Cooling: you do no mention fan %, I am a bit lazy on this and always use 100% with PLA.

Are we looking at the bottom  surface of the model?

Is the lhs higher than the rhs, i.e. not sitting on the bed?

 

Hi Yellowshark,

many thanks for your input- I will try your suggestions and feedback.

I have attached another photo to help better describe the form of the model. You will notice that much of the model is suspended by support material due to a feature sticking out the side. (Not ideal)

I have not used adhesive- I am pretty new to this and the printer was second hand without any sign of adhesive etc.

Is it worth using adhesive as a matter of good practice?

Many thanks again

Adzprint_2.thumb.jpg.3a95b3012e0d01b04efe3367d03e9dfd.jpg

print_2.thumb.jpg.3a95b3012e0d01b04efe3367d03e9dfd.jpg

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Ah I understand now! Ok I think my changes should certainly help as you are probably printing way too hot, so give them a go and give us an update and pic if necessary. OK adhesion to bed. Yes an adhesive is good, most people use them for PLA. Different people use different things. I think the reality is if someone uses something and it works well for them they stick with it. Do you have a removable glass bed with your printer? If you do then I use hairspray; this was recommended to me by my printer manufacturer, it worked well and I have never tried anything else.

Process:

Buy a can of L'Oréal Elnett extra strength hairspray from Waitrose or whatever.

Heat up your bed (maybe optional but I always do)

Remove your glass plate and spray it LIGHTLY with the aerosol – do not get hung up on LIGHTLY, just do not push the button all the way down and move very slowly across the bed. You cannot damage anything!

Wait 20 seconds and spray a 2nd light coat.

Replace glass bed and bring back up to required temp.

Go.

Notes:

Only sometimes does the 1st print does not stick. Maybe the coating was too light; no harm in spraying on another coat.

Mine normally lasts a month or two; sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. If you have been using it for a while and start to loose adhesion it is OK to just repeat the process above. But normally I will clean the plate and re-apply the coating – best to do that but if you are in a rush OK to miss it.

How to clean: run a sink hot tap over the plate and use a jiffy cloth to wipe off the hairspray, it is easy to see. Wipe dry; again no hang ups here, by the time the bed has heated up any dampness will have gone.

AND ALSO: if you have asked for 70 degrees and your printer is telling you that you have 70 degrees is that right? Often not!! Firstly the printer is probably measuring the temperature of the printer bed, not the glass plate. On my printer once the temp. reads 60 (my normal setting) the plate is 8-10 degrees behind. You have to wait, say 10mins. If you have a digital thermometer so much the better, you can read the glass temp. directly.

Secondly; the heater is probably in the middle of the bed. That means that when the centre gets to the desired temp., the surrounding perimeter is cooler, 12 degrees easily. If you are printing a piece in the centre of the bed with a small ground surface area then it is not a problem. But if you are printing a piece with a large surface it can/will be, you need to wait for the perimeter area to catch up, 15+ mins? Again a digital thermometer is the tool you want!

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