Using the Ultimaker3 CORE on an Ultimaker2

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed that part is what makes the core fixed. The chamfer seems to be a 60 degrees. Don't make it 45 or will loose stability. You have the photos I sent of that part?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Indeed that part is what makes the core fixed. The chamfer seems to be a 60 degrees. Don't make it 45 or will loose stability. You have the photos I sent of that part?

 

yep, still have them ,thanks. what would your guess be as to what material the plate is?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

And what is this extremely cool Calimero version of the ultimaker :-)

 

It's a "GO" clone I made on my Shapeoko3 ... 5 cm extended and 10mm thick wood... great machine to experiment with as it has no covers anywhere

[conny_g 251]

Cool! :-)

Which Shapeoko and are you happy with it?

[neotko 1,417]

 

Indeed that part is what makes the core fixed. The chamfer seems to be a 60 degrees. Don't make it 45 or will loose stability. You have the photos I sent of that part?

 

yep, still have them ,thanks. what would your guess be as to what material the plate is?

 

Not sure. Fells heavy for aluminum and since the printhead small boards is touching it I would suppose is some hardened steel (specifically for the color and how hard is to scratch it).

[drayson 75]

Indeed that part is what makes the core fixed. The chamfer seems to be a 60 degrees. Don't make it 45 or will loose stability. You have the photos I sent of that part?

 

thanks for that hint, but as far as I can estimate from the pictures I have from the core, it seems to be 45...

could you or anybody else confirm by measurement?

Edited November 30, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

 

 

Indeed that part is what makes the core fixed. The chamfer seems to be a 60 degrees. Don't make it 45 or will loose stability. You have the photos I sent of that part?

 

yep, still have them ,thanks. what would your guess be as to what material the plate is?

 

Not sure. Fells heavy for aluminum and since the printhead small boards is touching it I would suppose is some hardened steel (specifically for the color and how hard is to scratch it).

 

hardened steel or stainless steel seems clear as the counterpart of the core is also made of steel - any other combination would wear too easy...

[Labern 774]

Unless it's Hard anodized aluminum which is very resistant to wear.

[neotko 1,417]

Unless it's Hard anodized aluminum which is very resistant to wear.

 

Maybe? The thing is that the printhead small board is plugged on this metal part, so it must be a metal that doesn't get hot, or stays cold by the fan...

[foehnsturm 969]

It looks like some kind of cast metal. At least the design of this part follows all the rules e.g. shapeways set up for their steel material (which is half bonze). But I suppose you would have to pay something like 30 € there.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Was thinking about doing that. 30.- is fine as long as I don't need to much iterations....

[ultiarjan 1,223]

FYI, got confirmation the plate is anodized aluminum

[drayson 75]

Ahhh - great...

Could you also try to get a confirmation on the camfer angle? 60 would make sense, but I doubt it is...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Ahhh - great...

Could you also try to get a confirmation on the camfer angle? 60 would make sense, but I doubt it is...

 

it is 60....

[neotko 1,417]

 

Ahhh - great...

Could you also try to get a confirmation on the camfer angle? 60 would make sense, but I doubt it is...

 

it is 60....

 

Yeah I asked @Gudo what he thought about some crwzy ideas I had and he said 60. So since he is such a talented guy I thought was a good source (and he knew it just by the photos!)

[Labern 774]

Good thing about anodized aluminum is that it's not electrically conductive so there is not much risk when attaching electronics to it.

It's also a cheap process which you can sometimes get done for free if you ask youre local anodizer nicely.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Good thing about anodized aluminum is that it's not electrically conductive so there is not much risk when attaching electronics to it.

It's also a cheap process which you can sometimes get done for free if you ask youre local anodizer nicely.

 

how does it affect heat conductivity?

[Labern 774]

The matte surface which in this case is not as bright as shiny alloy and provides a slight increase of surface area, it still absorbs heat well but allows it to loose the heat better.

This is why most heat sinks are anodized. Although black would be better at releasing the heat.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

did some work on this topic, CNCed a bottom plate, but had no proper 60 degree countersink drill so it's a failure Better luck next year, ordered a 60 degree drill on ebay .... also had a look at printing it in aluminium.... but thats 70,-

the middle part is in heat resistant silicone, thought i'dd try if that would be good enough to isolate the heat from the printed head.... we'll see next year.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

quick update on the "CORE HEAD"

decided to improve the electronics connector mounting, so I made a tiny pcb on my shapeoko, using a small engraving cutter.

Finally also made the aluminium bottom plate, cut the main shape on the shapeoko, drilled the 60 degree center hole, and manually made the needed chamfers. Not the most accurate process but ok for now.

Mounted the whole thing, did 2 prints, big improvement, think I nailed it this time.

Used fuzzy skin in this print, don't really like the looks on this model but the print is fine imho.

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Ultiarjan.

Way to go!!!

Thanks.

Regards

Torgeir.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Finally decided to put in the heated bed, printer is still going strong with the CORE head.

http://3dsolex.com/product/um2go-heated-bed/

[RudydG 62]

Just curious, how is this project?

I am also "in love" with the new cores from my UM3

I am modifying an old Leapfrog, already transformed the X-Y so i can "accomodate" the dual head principle from the um3. And now the UM3 drawings are available, it is so much easier...even the head switching is printable.

Just 2 parts that are still tricky, the metal bottom plate (cost around 100€ to get it made in metal true materialise), and the electrical connection (print)

 

 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Not sure if you've seen it but a long time ago I actually put a UM3 head in this machine.

https://youtu.be/KDGUyEFx00A

 

You are right, now that the UM3 files are out it's easy to copy the head, however depending on the machine you want to put it in you may want to make some modifications. If you look at the UM3 head it has a tiny Y bearing in it, the addapted head og the S5 has a slightly wider head, with room for a bigger bearing, this should be easy to do yourself based on the  UM3 files, specially since you wil not need the original UM3 electronics. It wil mean a bit wider metal bottom plate (probably about 5 mm more distance between the cores)

 

I still want to make a better single core head, for my UM2, but it has never made it to the top of my to do list till now :)

[ultiarjan 1,223]

The original metal plate from the UM3 is around 50,-

 

Oh and I have not looked into it, but did you try to get a CNC quote on 3D hubs for the plate? wonder what that would cost....