Dramatic Layer Shifts

[neotko 1,417]

UM3 has the board rotated with a spongy weird cool material that dissipates the heat on the aluminum plate of the frame. Very cool. But ofc um3 has a toon more claves on the board.

[Yoter 14]

I plan to transfer my heat sinks. Should I add breather holes to the board mount enclosure? I was even considering drilling the outside housing some to allow air to pass over the board, as my current active cooling system does seem to be a bit of a dead end, air goes in but there is no good way for it to come out.

Does anyone know what the "spongy weird cool material that dissipates heat" on the UM3 is? I run a lot of machines and do so successfully, mainly because one of my quirks is I take every failure in turn, analyze the hell out of it, and make sure it never happens again. If I can order some dissipating material and help prevent this in the future, I am more than happy to!

I was also wondering about the shelf I am sitting on. Right now, it is on top of an Ikea cabinet with a rubber mount under it to reduce vibration...mainly coming in, it sits next to two large prusa-style printers that can really shake things. I plan to put dampers on the feet I am printing, which will lift it a fair amount. When I do this, I was considering cutting a hole under the printer where the board sets and adding a large 110V cooling fan on a switch. I want to say the fans are about 6" across. We use them in some of our products. I was thinking I could set this up to blow air under the shelf to propagate more airflow under the machine, but at this point am I going too overboard?

Also, I plan to keep the X-Y current at 1100mA when I install the new board. Do I need to do anything with the Z or extruder stepper current?

I plan to enclose the printer for some prints I am doing next month. This may be another post, but how does everyone here do it? Right now, I have a door made of multiple layers of foam sandwiched between two pieces of cardboard that serves as a door, then a box with a slot cut in the back to slip over the Bowden that serves as a hood. It does a good job, even if it does look horrible. I do worry about stepper temp when I run this setup, but it doesn't seam to seal the board in with the heat.

[BrayChristopher 36]

Does anyone know what the "spongy weird cool material that dissipates heat" on the UM3 is?

I don't have a UM3, but it is probably a metal foam heat sink.

http://www.electronicproducts.com/Thermal_Management/Heat_Sinks_and_Thermal_Materials/Metallic_foam_heatsink_is_beginning_of_passive_cooling_revolution.aspx

http://www.versarien-technologies.co.uk/

[BrayChristopher 36]

I plan to enclose the printer for some prints I am doing next month.  This may be another post, but how does everyone here do it?  Right now, I have a door made of multiple layers of foam sandwiched between two pieces of cardboard that serves as a door, then a box with a slot cut in the back to slip over the Bowden that serves as a hood.  It does a good job, even if it does look horrible.  I do worry about stepper temp when I run this setup, but it doesn't seam to seal the board in with the heat.

 

Here is a link to my set up. My boss didn't like oven bag I had clipped over the front.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17521-enclosure?amp%3Bsort=&page=1#reply-158697

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-extended-enclosure

[BrayChristopher 36]

I was also wondering about the shelf I am sitting on.  Right now, it is on top of an Ikea cabinet with a rubber mount under it to reduce vibration...mainly coming in, it sits next to two large prusa-style printers that can really shake things.  I plan to put dampers on the feet I am printing, which will lift it a fair amount.  When I do this, I was considering cutting a hole under the printer where the board sets and adding a large 110V cooling fan on a switch.  I want to say the fans are about 6" across.  We use them in some of our products.  I was thinking I could set this up to blow air under the shelf to propagate more airflow under the machine, but at this point am I going too overboard?

 

If I had to do it all over again, I would have put the printer on a wire rack shelf.

I hate the idea of taking a drill to the printer. Partly because I don't own it.

Do the electronics really need that sheet metal cover?

You could probably get a couple small radial fans and put them at the back bottom of the printer so that they create cross flow air under the printer.

Maybe someone has designed a more cooling friendly electronics cover that can be printed.

[BrayChristopher 36]

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:570165

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:223801

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/7695-polar-wind-air-cooling-system-for-the-ultimaker-2

[BrayChristopher 36]

I might pick up one of these.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0SS-0082-00018

[paul9 20]

I have similar problem.

While I was printing with my UM2 after two hours of printing on 6 totals and where everything went well, I heard a strange noise, a stroke lasting just a moment probably from one of the engines, and then the print moved And he began to print in a translucent way by constantly moving them until I had to abort the print.

I have already checked the pulleys and straps for two days, I have cleaned the straps of the belts on the pulley.

I read that you can lower the motor current to 1100 mA.

I have not tried this thing yet.

I supported the original feeder with one of the BondTech I wanted to know if the engine I removed by changing the pulley I can possibly use instead of a present on x or y.

[paul9 20]

Another thing, considering that I have a BondTech feeder the rest of the values present are correct?

Is there anything I can change?

[paul9 20]

Lets see how we can bring those numbers down, but first wait to see what happens with your current tuned down to 1100.

Lets see if it finishes a couple of prints successfully and if there is any layershift at all.

Hi SandervG,

1100 even for z or just for x and y?

[SandervG 1,521]

I believe X and Y only

[paul9 20]

I believe X and Y only

Ok thanks for this informations!

[paul9 20]

I believe X and Y only

Now as you can see in this photo, printing conditions are much better.

However, it remains at the height of the central hole yet another very evident phenomenon of translation which then did not continue.

Can you tell me if I can test the engine that I used to use as a feeder in substitution for one of the two that are now moving along x and y?

Does this print confirm that the translation problem is given by the stepping motors?

[SandervG 1,521]

Could you rephrase this question: Can you tell me if I can test the engine that I used to use as a feeder in substitution for one of the two that are now moving along x and y?

I have a hard time understanding it, sorry. Are you talking about the top being slightly flatter, or the small seemingly layer misalignment?

[paul9 20]

Could you rephrase this question: Can you tell me if I can test the engine that I used to use as a feeder in substitution for one of the two that are now moving along x and y?

I have a hard time understanding it, sorry. Are you talking about the top being slightly flatter, or the small seemingly layer misalignment?

 

I'm talking about the fact that at some point in the printing phase there was again a discontinuation of the print but then came back.

It seems to me that the problem is one of the two stepping motors running the x and y directions.

I replaced the engine running the printer feeder, but the engine seems to be the same as the two, I wanted to know if it really is so and if I can do a test reusing it with mounted on a pulley instead of one of the two present ones.

[neotko 1,417]

What's the temperature on the room of the printer?

[paul9 20]

What's the temperature on the room of the printer?

27° Celsius

[neotko 1,417]

What's the temperature on the room of the printer?

27° Celsius

Try to remove the plastic cover on your printer, so the board cools faster. Also if you have, JUST TO TEST, place a fan pointing at the bottom of the printer / board. And test again.

[paul9 20]

What's the temperature on the room of the printer?

27° Celsius

Try to remove the plastic cover on your printer, so the board cools faster. Also if you have, JUST TO TEST, place a fan pointing at the bottom of the printer / board. And test again.

Ok Thanks!

[BrayChristopher 36]

[print=4719][/print]

I made an enclosure for the UM2 controller board that should allow for more air flow.