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Can I use 3 in 1 oil for lubricating the axis?

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3 in one is an lubricant only, it is not WD40

The company that owns the brand 3in1 is called WD40 Company hence the confusion

I have been using 3in1 on my UM2 for almost three years it is recommended for sewing machines, so I plan to continue using it, unless anyone knows better ?

 

While it can work, it can damage the shafts, also if it lands on any electronic component it can damage it. So yea, not recommended. But hey, even butter can work!

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While it can work, it can damage the shafts, also if it lands on any electronic component it can damage it. So yea, not recommended. But hey, even butter can work!

 

I have done a lot of research today trying to ensure I am using the correct lubrication product for my UM2, I have ordered some clear oil (marketed as Connex) which is very highly recommended for sewing machines

neotko do you have a source for your comment that 3 in one could cause damage to the shafts ?

I can confirm I have no plans to pour 3 in one on to any of the electronics or even butter for that mater

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3 on 1 removes dust and oils. WD40 is the same but other brand and use to have some oil. So while it can work to leave it clean (if used after disassembling the parts) you end up running the bushings without lubrication so the erosion will end up eating the shafts external metal, making dents and worsening the smooth movement. Ofc bushings and shafts can work with almost zero oil but is better just oil to have a thin film of oil between the parts and protect them both + smooth movement.

This IMO

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Hmmmm - I think there may be some confusion - WD40 is a penetrating oil/cleaner and water dispersal *(hence WD) agent and is used on electrical (cars) to push water away where it is shorting the engine (traditionally sprayed on spark plug leads) and works brilliantly. Also good to a degree as a penetrating oil.

3in1 is a lubricating oil (yes there are other products in the range now that are spray cans etc - so to be clear I am talking about the DRIPPING OIL) and is fine for use on all your axes except the Z axix which should be grease.

So if you are spraying it - then NO - if you are dripping it then YES :)

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I use 3-in-1 on my machine. It always leaves a light film of oil and I don't see any shaft wear. We use the same oil on a bunch of our machines in the shop, which is the primary reason I use it.

As Jameshs pointed out, only get the drip kind! There is a 3-in-1 garage door lubricant, and I believe some other iterations that are spray on. Most of these have silicone or lithium additives to leave a heavy coat of lube, which attracts dirt quickly and makes the black mess. This is fine on garage doors with a lot of slop, not so much on linear guides.

The main thing to remember is to clean your guide rods!!!! Any lube that stays on any surface WILL attract dust and give you that black cloth when you wipe it. When you oil your machine, wipe the surfaces down with a little isopropyl alcohol, then again with a clean rag with isopropyl. Then wipe on your oil. Lubing dirt does not do anyone any favors.

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Hi Folks,

I'd simply have to comment here, why – because I'm one of those using "3 in one" oil in my printer.

As jameshs said; ... there must be some confusion..

Certainly it is, first; the "3 in one" oil is a "high speed spindle oil" type, containing corrosion inhibitor and cleaning agents -hence the name "3 in one".

In 1994 the "3 in one" oil celebrated the product's centennial -100 year! So, this oil have been in "service" for about 122 years today, -and it is still in production!

Then to the WD40 "involvement".  

In 1995 (I’ll think), the "WD40 Company" bought the name and products of "3 in one" and made their own product as "3 in one", a product label for all sort of spray and lubricant variants they offer. So no wonder people get confused here.

But, the "3 in one" oil is still the same, even in the new "plastic" bottle!

Way back, "3 in one" was used for sewing machines for a long time, then those companies started to "make" their own brand of sewing machine oil. Suddenly stories about how much better this "new" oil was over to the old oil types that’s was used for same purpose over years before..  But the truth is, they're all based on the same type of oil distillates.

There is one thing I don’t like with “3 in one”, and this is the odor of the cleaning agent, the odor of Citronella oil. Not my kind of smell ( :)), but the positive part in here it’s that’s easy to identify the “3 in one” oil! So, when you finish your oily job, the smells remind you to wash your hands after the oil job, actually a good thing. (Citronella oil is used in soap production and perfume production.. etc. )

When I saw the specs for the “Unilube”, the general purpose oil that’s part of the kit Makershop sell for ultimaker. In the spec. sheet, this oil have a note; “Store in a frost free location”.  :(  What, an oil do not survive in frosty environment(?), until I’d realized that the plastic container cant take minus temperature.  

This kind of oils can be stored for some … time normally.

I’ve have a small metal can from 1962, that’s still have some oil smelling Cinderella oil!

-And I have a new plastic can of “3 in one” bought in 2010!

Edit: Forgot to mention the most important thing: Today there is several types of sewing machine oil, new types as full synthetic and so on.. I'll like to see that the Ultimaker recommend the sewing machine oil to be used is; the types based on light mineral oil.

Also the issue about warranty and the recommendation for servicing.

Here’s two pictures, “3 in one” and “unilube”.

3_in_one.jpg.60dc43d4a7538996eba55765d8452257.jpg

This is the new plastic can "3 in one" oil. (The original is a metal can.)

Unilube.thumb.jpg.85c4470ad8863d42a78e90175fb6060e.jpg

Here is the "Unilube", also using a plastic can.

Happy printing.

Thanks.

Torgeir.

3_in_one.jpg.60dc43d4a7538996eba55765d8452257.jpg

Unilube.thumb.jpg.85c4470ad8863d42a78e90175fb6060e.jpg

Edited by Guest
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Is there a document that explains how and when to maintain a printer (including what and when to oil/lube various parts?

I was surprised that there wasn't either a printed, or PDF, manual provided with my printer. I've been trying to get through a lot of the information here on Ultimaker's site - but there is a ton of stuff here between the forums, helpful videos, product information, etc. An overall document (manual) with links to more detail would be very helpful - and may be here - but I haven't been able to find it yet. Is there something like that?

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Is there a document that explains how and when to maintain a printer (including what and when to oil/lube various parts?

I was surprised that there wasn't either a printed, or PDF, manual provided with my printer. I've been trying to get through a lot of the information here on Ultimaker's site - but there is a ton of stuff here between the forums, helpful videos, product information, etc. An overall document (manual) with links to more detail would be very helpful - and may be here - but I haven't been able to find it yet. Is there something like that?

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21925-maintaining-your-printer

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Why would you use any kind of oil X, Y shafts? They collect dust.

Dry spray silicone or the mother of all lubes , Tri flow. Do not collect dust.

I know Gunsmiths who use these synthetics exclusively on full auto guns. In fact if the z worm gear hadn't came covered in Grease, would be using Tri Flow on it.

Side note on application of lubes, apply a liberal amount to a lint free cloth then rub on bars.

Ed

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Hi Folks,

I'll think that Tri flow is really good in some places, but for sliding bearing with roller bearing inside it will be a problem without an oil film.

It's a good idea to oil the sliding bearing before you install them to the shaft.

Dust always collect up at the end travel on the shafts and is easy to wipe away if you lubricate frequently. This also save the rubber sealing so it will last longer.

Well.. Also a little more about 3-in-one oil. As I'm at home right now, I've made a picture of the back of the two types of oil bottles I have. So here you'll see that the 3-in-one oil is really meant for sawing machines as well. So no problem!

3_in_one.thumb.jpg.ea329421da41dd802df12e7496e16d47.jpg

Just zoom into the details..

Happy printing and New Year :) !

Thanks.

Torgeir.

3_in_one.thumb.jpg.ea329421da41dd802df12e7496e16d47.jpg

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3 on 1 removes dust and oils. WD40 is the same but other brand and use to have some oil. So while it can work to leave it clean (if used after disassembling the parts) you end up running the bushings without lubrication so the erosion will end up eating the shafts external metal, making dents and worsening the smooth movement. Ofc bushings and shafts can work with almost zero oil but is better just oil to have a thin film of oil between the parts and protect them both + smooth movement.

This IMO

 

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Also don't oil the Z pillars, ( unless you have really high spec bearings ). Oil on these makes the bearing balls slide, not roll.

 

All the UM official documentation clearly states that you SHOULD oil the z shafts, but not the z screw which requires green grease.

 

Really? Please link/photo/screenshot

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Hi neotko,

Think petersm is right, the two large Z-shafts connected to the bed platform are using two "double sliding bearing" in each with 4 lines of roller bearing separated 90 deg.

This kind of bearing is of same type as used inside the "extruder" sliding along the two 6 mm shafts (X and Y). So there will be used oil for lubrication in here.

For the Z-screw jack on the stepper motor, green grease only.

I'll think I saw something about it as well, but can't remember where, anyway – those kind of bearing must have "spindle" oil.

As I've such a bearing in "stock" :), -here's a picture to see.

Z_Shaft_Sliding_Bearing_UM2___.thumb.jpg.a522fc93cb2064686a4ae65fe6c18e75.jpg

Worth to mention, this is a brand new bearing out of a sealed bag..  The oil used for storing is a conservation oil and do not work very well with this oil.

So you'll need to clean out this conservation oil by using White Spirit, move the bearing when dipped into so that the "agent" flow through the bearing in order to dissolve this conservation oil.  

When done, dry the bearing using an air gun with a moderate flow so you do not risk blowing away bearing parts..

After dried, enrich the bearing cambers with "spindle" oil. Due to the capillar effect, the right amount of oil will remain inside.

But just do this just before you're installing a new bearing. This procedure is valid for all type of bearing of this type, unless otherwise is noted.

Hope this clear out.

Thanks.

Torgeir.

Z_Shaft_Sliding_Bearing_UM2___.thumb.jpg.a522fc93cb2064686a4ae65fe6c18e75.jpg

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Hi neotko,

a) They should do it when they install new bearings on the printer, -unless they have special order with (previous) pre lubricated (with proper spindle oil) bearings with some limited time to keep in store before installed. This is a standard practice that I'll think everyone dealing with such thing know about.

b)

No, No, this is the oil that the bearing is inhibited in, an oil to protect against corrosion during storage. I'm just talking about a brand new bearing that you like to install on your printer if is fails. Such a new bearing need to be cleaned then lubricated with the recommended type of oil. And Yes, this is the same brand of oil as used on the upper bearing. (Roller bearing need to roll in real oil, it is the oil film that's protect against wear and tear. Grease cant be used in this small ball bearing types.)

However, if your bearing is old -but not worn out and you like to put some new oil into it, this mention cleaning/drying method and re oiling is the one to be used as well.

I'll do hope this clear out things.

Thanks.

Torgeir.

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Perfect. I do agree indeed. Today I was installing misumi linear bearings on the third printer (because atm is disassembled) and I was doing that process like misumi recommends.

Offtopic. Also, anyhow, I wonder if to really get a linear bearing back to life, it might need vibration bath to fully take out the dirt from inside. Specially since umo+ bearings are quite poor quality (z at least).

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