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1) For good bed adhesion, the first layer needs to be squished hard agains the glass plate. This tends to spread that layer out a bit, thus widening it. Solution: calibrate the build plate for a higher gap between nozzle and first layer, so that the first layer isn't squished so hard.
2) The heated build plate makes the bottom layers melt and sag a little bit, since the optimal build plate temp is around the glass transition temp of the material (= the temp at which it begins to get weak). Solution: use a lower build plate temp.
Both solutions give a far worse adhesion of the model to the build plate. So I usually prefer a little bit of elephant feet, rather than bad adhesion, especially for difficult to print models.
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The full stable release of UltiMaker Cura 5.4 is here and it makes it easier than ever to remove brims and supports from your finished prints. UltiMaker S series users can also look forward to print profiles for our newest UltiMaker PET CF composite material!
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geert_2 556
In my experience, there are two main causes:
1) For good bed adhesion, the first layer needs to be squished hard agains the glass plate. This tends to spread that layer out a bit, thus widening it. Solution: calibrate the build plate for a higher gap between nozzle and first layer, so that the first layer isn't squished so hard.
2) The heated build plate makes the bottom layers melt and sag a little bit, since the optimal build plate temp is around the glass transition temp of the material (= the temp at which it begins to get weak). Solution: use a lower build plate temp.
Both solutions give a far worse adhesion of the model to the build plate. So I usually prefer a little bit of elephant feet, rather than bad adhesion, especially for difficult to print models.
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