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flexible filament on UM3

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Has someone tried printing flexible material on the UM3, I've been trying to print ninjaflex, but it keeps tangling up between the extruder gear and the tube. I'm printing at 230 c with retraction disabled at 25mm/s. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

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The UM3 needs modifications to successfully print Ninjaflex. I don't know the details, just know someone managed to do it. Due to the very high flexibility it is very tricky to print this with our setup.

TPU-95A can be printed in it. We're still working on those profiles, but I thought I heard someone say that those will go into a beta testing soon.

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Rumors say that bondtech is working on a UM3 feeder, this will most probably help for flex materials, also 3dsolex will have a 1.75mm kit soon with the possibility to switch from 2.85 to 1.75mm in a minute or so (and changing the core of course).

I have printed semi flex with the UM3 and NGen flex it prints just fine, but ninjaflex is really hard for bowden setups

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I would be very scare about using ninjaflex on a um3 with the huge 1-2mm air gab on top of the cores...

A good and complex mod would require to modify the top plastic of the um3 to something more airgap. Maybe when UM releases the step files?

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I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.

 

More than pictures, maybe you could share the speed, settings etc. That might help more people:)

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I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.

 

More than pictures, maybe you could share the speed, settings etc. That might help more people:)

 

Ohhh...youse guys want everything LOL

I have to go meet a client soon. When I get back, I will try to get pics and the profiles together with it.

Be aware that I am printing in 'primitive' conditions. Basement apartment in Brooklyn and it can get cold at times. I was thinking about this and I wonder if it being cooler in my room than suggested (generally about 65°F or around there) has something to do with the filament not giving me trouble.

I will have something as soon as I can get it together when I get back.

I have been able to make what I call soft locks (Ball and socket with flexible materials) that can be put together and taken apart without breaking as well as my test dino that I made for a variety of reasons.

Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values.

https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/

From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C"

Edited by Guest
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I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.

 

More than pictures, maybe you could share the speed, settings etc. That might help more people:)

 

Ohhh...youse guys want everything LOL

I have to go meet a client soon. When I get back, I will try to get pics and the profiles together with it.

Be aware that I am printing in 'primitive' conditions. Basement apartment in Brooklyn and it can get cold at times. I was thinking about this and I wonder if it being cooler in my room than suggested (generally about 65°F or around there) has something to do with the filament not giving me trouble.

I will have something as soon as I can get it together when I get back.

I have been able to make what I call soft locks (Ball and socket with flexible materials) that can be put together and taken apart without breaking as well as my test dino that I made for a variety of reasons.

 

Thanks! I'm sure a lot of users will find your info really interesting!

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Ack!! I did not expect a reply so soon...I did add an edit about cheetah...Edit copied below so nobody has to search for it:

Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values.

https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/

From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C"

As an Aside, and non-flexible: Armadillo is amazing! Prints well....doing my first scanned body part to test. From Artec samples.

Edited by Guest
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I will be providing my print profiles for NinjaFlex and Ninja SemiFlex as soon as I get back. :)

Oh, and keep in mind I have not been printing for long and still quite noobish. So, what is successful on my untrained eyes may not be for you guys.

Sometimes I feel like the youngun running into the kitchen to let Mom and Dad know I made a boom boom all by myself. LOL

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Here is a link to the profiles I started with. I don't have pics yet, but I wanted to get this out as soon as I got home and a bit settled. Pics will come later.

http://www.kmanstudios.com/NinjaProfiles.zip

Edit: It has a model(s) I made to test fidelity. Feel free to disperse this crappy model(s) as you like. They are soooo radical in design LOL

Edited by Guest
Added info and also had to clean up link
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Here are pics. The spider is not my model. Everything else is. This is where to find the spider...cool spider....

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1751722

EDIT!!!: The heart is not my model. It came from embodi.com and this is the link to it. Sheeesh...I should know better, eh?

https://www.embodi3d.com/files/file/35-3d-printable-human-heart/

As an aside, I am recycling one of my test dinos for a diorama and is labeled as PLA.

Pics: In order of squishiness-Natural is NinjaFlex, black is Ninja SemiFlex and Red is Cheetah.

EK-Kman-Bike_A.JPG

EK-Kman-Bike_B.JPG

EK-Kman-DinoFlexi_PVA.JPG

EK-Kman-SemiFlex.JPG

EK-Kman-Mess-O-Flexi.JPG

EK-Kman-PartDiorama.JPG

EK-Kman-SemiFlex-Part_Paint.JPG

Edited by Guest
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I am doing some test's using formfutura flexifil on the ultimaker 2+ -

I am following recommended settings provided by the supplier I bought the printers from -

'Best results we found are that the nozzle is set to 235 degrees and the bed at 60 but using 2090 blue scotch tape as platform adhesion as it tends to warp very easily. Adding a brim will also help with the platform adhesion. For best results use the TPU 95A material profile on cura as this works amazing with the material'

So far the material is extruding nicely, but not staying stuck to the tape very well - part of the print sticks, but part lifts, even with a brim.

When I tried changing the material over (back to PLA) I had to open the feeder up because the flex filament got jammed, but that only took a couple of minutes.

I will keep testing with flexifil and if I get some decent results will share the settings and some pictures.

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So far the material is extruding nicely, but not staying stuck to the tape very well - part of the print sticks, but part lifts, even with a brim.
I am using a slurry from recycled PVA to coat my glass plate and have had no trouble with any peel ups or warping. But, I have no idea how the NinjaFlex compares. So many filaments to choose from to test. I haven't even finished testing all my filament types in the two months I have been printing, so I would be very interested to see your results.

I am printing on the UM3+ so I have no idea how that compares to any other printer. It is my first printer, soooooo.....LOL

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Hi kmanstudios,

Thanks for your information. So as i get it right you only printed low objects with NinjaFlex? I just recieved a spool with it and before opening it i want to be sure i can use it. (As i just spend 2 hours getting Wood PLA up and running, but still no luck there).

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So far, I am testing materials just to see if I can get it to work. Thusly, I have not printed high objects in NinjaFlex. BUt from what I researched in the interwebby, it seems most are not high rez objects except gaskets (and that may just be the way it is as my gasket tests came out much cleaner...no real curves or angles).

Once I make it through my material stashes, I will get back onto refining the technique whilst going for higher resolution for my own purposes.

Just as an aside, I did find a way to make a solid rubbery surface with a bonded 'fuzzy' surface by just playing a bit.

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