Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

Recommended Posts

Posted · E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

Hi All!

I'm in the process of wiring up an E3D v6 3mm bowden print head to my UMO, I'm using a printed head found on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397518

I'm connecting 3 12v fans, one which needs to be always on, and two that run as normal side fans. I've done a sketch of how I think it should go. Electronics are definitely not my forte and I would rather not damage the circuit board, so please let me know if this looks wrong!


I'm connecting the thermistor and wiring that up and i want to know whether it's better to use a thermistor cartridge like: http://e3d-online.com/Thermistor-Cartridge?search=thermistor or a glass bead thermistor like: http://e3d-online.com/100k-Ohm-NTC-Thermistor-Semitec?search=thermistor I'm not sure which would be easier to wire.

Any help would be very much appreciated!


  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

The thermister part scares me the most. You dont' want to continue using the existing thermocouple and AD595? I thought these thermistors don't do so well at temperatures above 200C but I'm not certain. Anyway you'll have to build your own custom firmware if you switch to a thermister and insert a 4.7K pullup in the circuit board (there are holes for that ready to go). Here's a great custom firmware builder:


But notice that even the thingiverse link you point out still uses the original thermocouple that comes with the UMO. I really recommend sticking with that method.

Also note that thermocouples are all identical no matter who the manufacturer. Same with PT100 temp sensors (not supported by older UMO electronics) but thermistors are crazy different from manufacturer to manufacturer. A "100K thermister" from one company might have a different curve than the next company although I suppose all 104GT-2 might be the same. Not sure.

Finally and probably most important of all - all metal hot ends kind of suck with PLA. They are great for other materials like ABS but for PLA - the semi-molten PLA sticks to the metal and everything is fine until you go to do a second print and you can't get the PLA to move up or down. Or in the middle of a print with lots of retractions the PLA gets stuck and the print is ruined. It's not a problem where the metal is colder than 40C. Not a problem where the metal is > 150C. It's the in between area where the UMO has teflon. But if you are certain you will NEVER print PLA ever again the e3d hot end is fantastic.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

    Thank you so much for your reply! Really helped out a lot.

    I'm using the original thermocouple as I don't fancy changing the firmware.

    Also thanks for the advice in using PLA, once I've got it set up I'll try printing with ABS and see how it goes.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

    Results with the E3D using PLA is intermittent. Some people have issues I usually don't have issues with PLA. But I have to admit that before I change material I put a drop of sunflower oil on the filament before inserting it in the hotend and it is good to go for at least 12h printing. It might also depend on the kind of PLA I am using Colorfab which is quite tacky on the outside and it rubs on the side on the cooler.

    And switching back from ABS to PLA make sure to do a couple of hot pulls to get all the ABS out since the lower print temperature of PLA can give issues if the is some ABS residual (same is true for colorfab XT as well).

    I have printed quite a bit with V6 and PLA.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

    Oh I hate this automatic logout feature on the forum.. I just typed a reply and then it logged me out so the message is lost:angry:

    For the always on fan your proposal is ok.

    For your cooling fan it will not work. The problem is you loose your speed control. You will find that it has difficulty with starting up and then will spin up to max rpm and that is not what you want.

    Fortunately there are simple solutions. For example you can use 11 diodes (1N4001) in series or use a 6.8V 1W zener diode. In both cases you loose a constant voltage whatever the current is. So at low rpm the motor will draw more current (it is using pulse width modulation) and with increased fan setting it will draw less current (higher rpm results in more voltage from the motor) Here is where your resistor has issues at a low setting the current is relatively high so it will drop quite a bit and then when the motor spins up it will draw less current so your resistor will drop less resulting in non starting motor at low setting to spin up to max rpm. Here the diodes or a zener works better since they always drop the same amount of voltage not mater the amount of current.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · E3D v6 print head on ultimaker original

    Well typically the zeners drop a little more when drawing current then exactly specified and the fans might not blow up directly when a little more then 12V is supplied. I would test it out and measure how much voltage is on the fan when the fan is directly connected to the 19V. If you want to add some margin just add an extra diode (if you have enough zeners you can use a extra one in the opposite direction) .

    For safety I would use 1 zener (or set) per fan and check how hot the zener gets.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • 16 Visiting our virtual showroom

      1. 1. Have you visited our virtual showroom before?

        • Yes
        • No
      2. 2. If yes - what content did you find most interesting?

        • Information about Ultimaker ecosystem
        • Applications & application stories
        • Customer success stories
        • Webinar sessions
        • Material wall & ecosystem partners
        • New product introduction; software subscription plans
      3. 3. What of the below would make you consider visiting (again)?

        • New Live Ultimaker Webinar streams
        • ‘Ask Me Anything’ with industry experts or Ultimaker staff via main stage and public chat
        • New customer success stories
        • New applications
        • Presentations/news from ecosystem partners
        • Opportunity to meet representatives for an interactive tour
        • Helpful videos like Software tutorials
        • Other; leave input in a comment below!

    • Our picks

      • Ultimaker turns 10: A look back
        Ultimaker is turning 10 years old and that means it is story telling time! We'll explore 2010-2014, traveling through the evolution of the business from the Protobox and Ultimaker Original, to the major leaps forward with the Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 3.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
      • Ultimaker Transformation Summit
        Visit our virtual showroom and learn more about the Ultimaker ecosystem!
        • 14 replies
      • New here? Register your Ultimaker for free 3D printer onboarding course
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
    • Create New...