Change Max heated bed temperature to 120 deg

[DLMeyer 0]

Good day all.

Finally joined on here after 2 years with UM2, as i finally have a question I couldn't find an answer to on Google.

Is the UM2 capable of using higher heated bed temperatures than 100 deg celcius? I need to heat up to 120 deg and havent got a clue where or how to edit the machine settings or if the heated bed can actually achieve higher temperatures.

Help and info of any kind would be most appreciated.

Thanks

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Think  the answer is yes, you can go higher than 100c, but I never heard anybody doing 120c.

But NO IDEA IF IT'S SAFE, nor any idea what it'll do to the life expectancy of the bed.

I never use higher than 95c (ABS) as even reaching 100c takes ages, even enclosed.

To change the max setting, use the tinker firmware;

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20279-max-bed-temperature-limit-changed-lowered-after-extrusion-kit-upgrade-firmware-was-installed-on-um2

edit: changed 195c to 95c ....

Edited December 19, 2016 by Guest

[meduza 191]

If you install the Tinkergnome firmware, you can change the bed temperature up to 120C, but the UM2 heated bed is really not powerful enough to reach it easily. It differs a bit between different units, but one of my UM2+ printers stabilizes pretty much at 108C when using the printer with a plexiglass door, and just a few degrees over 100C without the door.

If you cover the top it can probably reach higher temperatures.

@ultiarjan: i believe that you mean 95 and not 195 degrees on the bed

Edited December 19, 2016 by Guest

[DLMeyer 0]

Think  the answer is yes, you can go higher than 100c, but I never heard anybody doing 120c.

But NO IDEA IF IT'S SAFE, nor any idea what it'll do to the life expectancy of the bed.

I never use higher than 195c (ABS) as even reaching 100c takes ages, even enclosed.

To change the max setting, use the tinker firmware;

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20279-max-bed-temperature-limit-changed-lowered-after-extrusion-kit-upgrade-firmware-was-installed-on-um2

 

Thanks for the quick response.

I am wary of tinkering with firmware settings, as i am as proficient at coding as i am at blindfolded open heart surgery

I would only use the function occassionaly but would like the option available to go up to 120 deg for certain prints and materials. in the same vein, what is the max temp the hotend can reliably print at for a length of time. Thinking of materials like PC etc. Would it be possible to push the hotend to 290 deg or would that require replacement parts for the teflon, etc?

[meduza 191]

Pushing the hotend to 290 will destroy your PTFE/TFM coupler in no time, it is possible to reach the temperature if you have at least a 35W heater (included in the UM2+), but you will have to do some kind of modification to the hotend, either by adding a insulating washer like the I2K that increases the life of the coupler, or replacing the hotend entirely with a all-metal hotend like the E3D V6.

The most promising option i have seen is the PBI coupler @gudo is testing in combination with @neotko's FatIRobertI feeder. (it requires more force to push the filament with this coupler)

All these options do affect your performance printing regular PLA negatively tough.

Edited December 19, 2016 by Guest

[DLMeyer 0]

If you install the Tinkergnome firmware, you can change the bed temperature up to 120C, but the UM2 heated bed is really not powerful enough to reach it easily. It differs a bit between different units, but one of my UM2+ printers stabilizes pretty much at 108C when using the printer with a plexiglass door, and just a few degrees over 100C without the door.

If you cover the top it can probably reach higher temperatures.

@ultiarjan: i believe that you mean 95 and not 195 degrees on the bed

 

Thanks Meduza

I suspected as much. Wouldnt want to hurt my beloved UM2.....

Any upgrades or suitable replacements for the UM2 in that regard, that you know of?

Machine is enclosed 100% with a case i made for it. Stabilises conditions for the prints and no interference form external conditions. But still can't get the bed heat I need.

To be more specific, i tried printing with ABS Pro from FormFutura, but prints kept dislodging. I leveled the bed perfectly, even went a smidge closer after a while to really squish down the first layer, but no joy. The failed prints have perfect inter-line adhesion and it is not a buildplate level or print temp issue. After a bit of research, it turns out that FormFutura recommends a heated bed of 120 deg or more, due to the extra hardness and stiffness of that specific filament. I tried the same print with Titan X ABS without changing anything and no issues, perfect print. So it seems to be a material specific issue for sure.

[DLMeyer 0]

Pushing the hotend to 290 will destroy your PTFE/TFM coupler in no time, it is possible to reach the temperature if you have at least a 35W heater (included in the UM2+), but you will have to do some kind of modification to the hotend, either by adding a insulating washer like the I2K that increases the life of the coupler, or replacing the hotend entirely with a all-metal hotend like the E3D V6.

The most promising option i have seen is the PBI coupler @gudo is testing in combination with @neotko's FatIRobertI feeder. (it requires more force to push the filament with this coupler)

All these options do affect your performance printing regular PLA negatively tough.

 

Again, thank you Meduza. Very informative and helpful, much appreciated.

I almost never print PLA anyway, mostly ABS, nylon, Carbon Fibre, etc. But want to try some of the higher temp materials. Which parts would i have to replace in order to print 290? Could i replace the first section of bowden with a PEET part and replace the teflon, etc with aluminium or steel? Would i have to introduce water cooling or a heatsink in that case? I'm already working on my own nozzle designs, to replace the ones i got with Ollssen Kit upgrade, so might as well go full monty on the whole hotend then?

[meduza 191]

Really only part you need to replace is the coupler, and if you have the older 25W heater you should upgrade to a 40W heater.

[DLMeyer 0]

Really only part you need to replace is the coupler, and if you have the older 25W heater you should upgrade to a 40W heater.

 

Most helpful Meduza, Thank you.