Is the Ruby Nozzle for the Olsson Block for Sale?

[dazkeirle 2]

how hard is it to change a coupler on an UM2+?

I actually have a spare.

I just dont want to start and then be in the position of not being able to remove or something silly.

[neotko 1,417]

If you do an atomic, remove the nozzle and while cold push filament from the nozzle hole, you could actually fell if the filament has any extra friction passing the coupler. Is a fast check and it just involve removing the nozzle. Ofc that will only show something if is really damaged.

[cloakfiend 995]

i'm going to do a few more trials with the ruby beta, i also noticed having to raise the temps, but did not notice surface degredation on my brass nozzle having only used PLA?

how long will a brass nozzle last for printing only with PLA before degrading is the question in hand.

The ruby prints were good quality though, i may buy a non beta just to see, but am also contemplating restoring the original non OB nozzle as it retains less heat and the head is smaller and looking at my very early prints seemed to handle detail better and give less stepper lines across the model.

Edited February 23, 2017 by Guest

[amedee 349]

I do need to up the temps 5-10 degrees Celsius, but I'm running a beta nozzle with worse heat conductivity.

 

Or because you have an UMO...

With both the beta and the production nozzle I have a significant difference in temperature between brass and ruby, and the difference tends to increase at higher nozzle temperatures. My take is that the UMO block does not transfer the heat in the same way the Olsson block does.

[cloakfiend 995]

' I have a significant difference in temperature between brass and ruby, and the difference tends to increase at higher nozzle temperatures.'

@amedee You need to be clearer when you say this, as the way its written currently doesn't say anything or help anyone!

[amedee 349]

I was just saying the following:

If I print PLA at 210°C with the brass nozzle, I need to got to 220°C with the ruby (+10°C)

If I print XT at 245°C with the brass nozzle, I need to got to 260°C with the ruby (+15°C)

So when the target temperature is higher, the difference between brass/ruby increase as well.

Do not focus too much on these numbers, I haven't done any scientific measurements these are just observations on a couple of prints.

The reason I was mentioning this is because @Titus has an UMO as well, so this might be why we experience a bigger difference than UM2 users.

(Note that Anders said from the beginning that the ruby was not designed for the UMO)

[neotko 1,417]

 

@amedee you have the beta or the final? There's quite a big difference on temp use and it actually stops most of the problems beta version had. I use 3 of them on my printers.

[cloakfiend 995]

@amedee thanks for the write up!

@neotko are you using early betas or finals on your machines?

I also have the late beta and experienced the same need to raise temps even on my um2. I will get the final ruby most likely as it means i don't need to take my print head apart, but in the mean time I'm still curious as to the main question which is...

does the original or OB brass nozzle wear down over time if you are only printing with PLA? anyone. I seem to remember Sander mentioning in a post that it would theoretically last forever if only using non abrasive materials.

Edited February 23, 2017 by Guest

[amedee 349]

@amedee you have the beta or the final? There's quite a big difference on temp use and it actually stops most of the problems beta version had. I use 3 of them on my printers.

 

But you have UM2 hot-ends

It is with the final version (my beta nozzle is broken)

[Titus 170]

I'm running early beta, but indeed, now I remember, it was not meant for UMOs, but it works great, just a little hotter

[dazkeirle 2]

Im interested in how heat conductivity was so dramatically altered from beta to final without changing the materials in use.

Surely by not having brass tot he tip some difference in heat conductivity is to be expected?

If everybody is running theirs hotter would be good to know, saves me continuously trying to search for and diagnose an issue I simply do not have.

[neotko 1,417]

You could just get a E3D sock, cut it and insert it. Works for me. It stops the fan air from affecting the nozzle temp. That for me was an improvement because my fans are way too powerful.

[dazkeirle 2]

If you do an atomic, remove the nozzle and while cold push filament from the nozzle hole, you could actually fell if the filament has any extra friction passing the coupler. Is a fast check and it just involve removing the nozzle. Ofc that will only show something if is really damaged.

 

This, yes defiantly friction and when I look down I can clearly see a little burred edge.

Loos like I'll be swapping out my Thermocoupler today (I have a spare here).

Is this a nightmare to do, any tips?

[Titus 170]

Im interested in how heat conductivity was so dramatically altered from beta to final without changing the materials in use.

Surely by not having brass tot he tip some difference in heat conductivity is to be expected?

If everybody is running theirs hotter would be good to know, saves me continuously trying to search for and diagnose an issue I simply do not have.

 

I believe it had to do with the way the ruby is fixed in the nozzle. That got improved from beta to final.

[neotko 1,417]

 

If you do an atomic, remove the nozzle and while cold push filament from the nozzle hole, you could actually fell if the filament has any extra friction passing the coupler. Is a fast check and it just involve removing the nozzle. Ofc that will only show something if is really damaged.

 

This, yes defiantly friction and when I look down I can clearly see a little burred edge.

Loos like I'll be swapping out my Thermocoupler today (I have a spare here).

Is this a nightmare to do, any tips?

 

The TFM coupler you mean not the Thermocoupler right?

UM2+ uses TFM (better than PTFE couplers) the instruction manual is here:

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22188-how-to-replace-the-tfm-coupler

The print head spacer so you don't crush the TFM part, you can print it (if the printer can still work, print it slow to get as much accuracy as possible) here:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-printhead-spacer

Edited February 24, 2017 by Guest

[dazkeirle 2]

As I hot dinner break I thought whats the worst that could happen and went at it.

Pretty simple, unscrew everything and then put all back togther.

Here's the difference between old and new. https://goo.gl/photos/EfjANS5j6tpQwLu79

Will test now to see if this may be the source of the underextrusion.

[neotko 1,417]

As I hot dinner break I thought whats the worst that could happen and went at it.

Pretty simple, unscrew everything and then put all back togther.

Here's the difference between old and new. https://goo.gl/photos/EfjANS5j6tpQwLu79

Will test now to see if this may be the source of the underextrusion.

 

That one you show as new one is ptfe (solid white) that last 50-200h print time. TFM (milky white) can last 500-2000h

Just in case you plan to use that one. And indeed your coupler has reach his end of life

Edited February 24, 2017 by Guest

[dazkeirle 2]

well that didn't go to plan. Appeared to be some kind of massive leakage and far worse under-extrusion - I've taken apart and replaced original TFM in the hope that whatever i did, I've now resolved.

I think tbh I just didn't screw nozzle on quite tight enough and the filament backed up over the nozzle.

If the TFM had such a short life then there's no point in putting the new one in. I'll buy a new one as you mentioned.

[dazkeirle 2]

turns out I coincidentally had blocked the Olsson in that process.

Anyway, had a cup of coffee, took things apart and did it all properly.

Everything cleaned and working as was, if not better.

I didn't have a fancy tool for the spacer but did use my calipers and align them to the rails. I'll be damned if they weren't bang on 16.80.

Anyhow, would be silly not to ask, anything look wrong in this picture?

https://goo.gl/photos/Vps31MkvzLuBGtMX7

I've now ordered a new TFM thingy for £16 - and more importantly I'm now not afraid to take apart the hot end (fitting name considering how burnt my fingers now are)

Edited February 24, 2017 by Guest
grammar

[neotko 1,417]

turns out I coincidentally had blocked the Olsson in that process.

Anyway, had a cup of coffee, took things apart and did it all properly.

Everything cleaned and working as was, if not better.

I didn't have a fancy tool for the spacer but did use my calipers and align them to the rails. I'll be damned if they weren't bang on 16.80.

Anyhow, would be silly not to ask, anything look wrong in this picture?

https://goo.gl/photos/Vps31MkvzLuBGtMX7

I've now ordered a new TFM thingy for £16 - and more importantly I'm now not afraid to take apart the hot end (fitting name considering how burnt my fingers now are)

 

Perfect. The photo looks ok to me according to the manual. The pink around the fans is from a previous leak?

[dazkeirle 2]

sorry, what pink mate?

I think that may be a reflection of red curtain behind.

Edited February 24, 2017 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

sorry, what pink mate?

I think that may be a reflection of red curtain behind.

 

Ahh ok. Nice nice

[cloakfiend 995]

Any word on the wear of a brass nozzle just printing with PLA?

[neotko 1,417]

Any word on the wear of a brass nozzle just printing with PLA?

 

In my experience to keep the e3d nozzles at top quality I had to change them each 5-6months (doing just pla) the flat tip smooths over time.

[cloakfiend 995]

Really, 5-6 months! damn. I've used mine pretty heavily for the past year, still seem ok?

my first um2 is still on the same original nozzle, printed great when i left it after over a years of total abuse.

Looks like i have many tests to do! and nozzles to buy.

I think I may be at the smooth period of my nozzle! lol.

Edited February 24, 2017 by Guest