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E3d V6 on Ultimaker Original + "Plus". With some questions.

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So I made the plunge to update my UMO+ with a V6 hotend. There are many ways to go about this it turns out and none of them are exactly straight forward. So I chose my mod and proceeded.

I chose a dual fan mount for my hotend

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount

and some new blocks to compinsate the new clearance requirements

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-xy-blocks-with-banana-tensioner

I decided on some Noctua fans for the efficiency and low noise. 40mm

NF-A4x10 FLX

http://noctua.at/en/products/fan

And of course the E3d V6 kit.

http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-full-kit-3mm-Bowden

I did choose to use the original heater and thermister that came with the UMO+ and not the ones supplied in the kit after reading some mixed results. This makes things much more simple for installation as a bonus.

20161231_193913.thumb.jpg.0e331b635d00f28f2f278f13914743d5.jpg

So now I'm at wiring and that's where the questions start. From what I saw in other posts the two part cooling fans can be connected in series and plug right in to the board. The E3d heatbreak fan is a different story. I saw on the UM2 in the E3d wiki you simply plug this fan in to the PWM fan on the board then download modified firmware and your off the races. The UMO+ and UM2 series share the same board. The output is 5v as needed. So the question.

Can I connect the fan to the PWM fan on the board?

Do I need to modify the firmware to make this work properly? If so how and what changes?

ps: ultiarjan I know your probably going to ask at some point. So this is for you. I know you have had issues with PLA in the past with the V6. My goal for this upgrade is for more options with printing materials and I wasn't completely satisfied with the original hotend from the start. I saw your feedback in many posts and it was very enlightening and helpfull. Your opinion is most welcome. :D

Thanks for all the help.

20161231_193913.thumb.jpg.0e331b635d00f28f2f278f13914743d5.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Do you really have a 5v fan?

The one from my kit is a 24v one...

 

Well technically I have two of them now. I have a 12v version that came off my Prusa and I assume a 24v that came with my kit? I ordered the 24v kit.

I reread the wiki again and I guess I missed understood. So there is a second 24v output on that board?

Edited by Guest

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Double check your kit when you get it, mine is a year or two old, so they may have changed the packaging.

Either way: for the 5v fan, use J34 header (labeled "FAN 5V") in the middle of the board; for the 24v fan, use the J20 header (labeled "FAN 19-14V") located at the short side of the board.

Note that if you have a recent board (2.1.4) the 5v fan output is not activated by default on UMO+, you will need a custom firmware (e.g. mine 8) )

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Double check your kit when you get it, mine is a year or two old, so they may have changed the packaging.

Either way: for the 5v fan, use J34 header (labeled "FAN 5V") in the middle of the board; for the 24v fan, use the J20 header (labeled "FAN 19-14V") located at the short side of the board.

Note that if you have a recent board (2.1.4) the 5v fan output is not activated by default on UMO+, you will need a custom firmware (e.g. mine 8))

 

Pulled the fan off to be sure its 24v and yes it is. So connected to J20 (Fan 19-24v) out. J14 Fan_pwm is being used by the part cooling fans. This means the v6 fan is on always with power. Would be great if I can figure out a way to temp control that fan. You recommendation to the custom firmware was spot on. Thanks for that.

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This means the v6 fan is on always with power. Would be great if I can figure out a way to temp control that fan.

 

Yes, and until recently this was the case as well with UM2!

If you have a recent board, the 5v output can be controlled by the firmware, so the easiest path is to replace the 24v fan by a 5v one...

Otherwise you will need some additional electronics.

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Following up with my project. I have added a 40mm 5v Noctua fan to the E3D cooling duct with a shallow adapter. This works as well as I would have hoped. The fan is now board controlled and all 3 fans are whisper quiet.

I have tested this out with a few PLA prints and I can see what ultiarjan was talking about with the upgrade effecting PLA print quality. Any small prints with the eSun pla + is simply to hot to hold a form and ends up with some deformations. Large prints however perform fantastically. So PLA is still fine for this as long as its something larger than a Benchy.

I have yet to attempt any other materials since I don't have them yet and the glass bed is next on my list of improvements to make. Ill be adding a PEI sheet to the glass for improved bed adhesion without the need of glue stick or blue tape. Once done ill tackle ABS prints with the new hotend. Now that I am thinking about it I wonder how good the adhesion is with PETG on bare glass.

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So PLA is still fine for this as long as its something larger than a Benchy.

 

There is nothing wrong with E3D and small PLA objects. With a comparable setup (same fan / nozzle) I get identical results on my E3D setup and the stock one.

This is my first PLA print with the E3D hot-end, same GCode as I used on my stock printer and same result.

E3DBenchy.thumb.jpg.651d31f47b56830e336c2610f212b6b7.jpg

E3DBenchy.thumb.jpg.651d31f47b56830e336c2610f212b6b7.jpg

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Good point amedee. I was eluding to the cooling on my setup in particular. I have a Original Prusa MK2 with E3D v6 hotend and prints small PLA models fine. Seeing as that's virtually the same hotend only a 1.75mm version I am suspect that the fans simply are not cooling the PLA enough. Perhaps my choice in hotend mount and fans has something to do with my results.

Do you think a fan with higher flow would help?

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I have the ultimaker original plus.  I'm having trouble with this.  I have the E3D print head, i'm using the ultimaker temperature probe.  The 5 volt fan is not turned on, I tried the LED pwm output, no voltage here either.   I have a 24 volt 30 mm fan and a 5 volt fan, either one is okay with me.  The output for Fan PWM seems to be working okay.  I tried the G code " M42 P13 S255 " which does not seem to do anything (No voltage at the LED PWM pins).  I'm very grateful for assistance.

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