I manually level for single extruder prints and am fine with that though I still want auto leveling to work. My print surface is sparkly clean and the bed is adjusted manually and is not far from the recommended clearances between the top of bottom plate and the bottom of the heated plate. Yet the auto level fails and what is WORSE is that I just tried to do a two extruder print and IT FAILED! Looks like bad extrusion. The PLA side was just fine.
Will
Edited by GuestMore on the above. I replaced the BB core with an AA core and the automatic leveling process worked. So I swapped cores again...and the leveling process worked! Even better my two material print with PVA is now well beyond where it had failed before........... :-o
Edited by GuestHi Wisar,
Is the auto leveling now always working for you? I just has my printer 4 days. Did a firmware upgrade on the setup. I'm on 3.5.3.20161221 version.
I set it up to auto level before each print (really it takes a couple of minutes, less than 1% on some of my 18 hours prints) but it just keeps failing on the first auto level, every time.
It was so bad that I basically cannot sent a job over the network, as the printer would fail the leveling and the job would be completed without printing. So I just disabled it for now.
I manually leveled the bed at least 10 times now. I tried with the worm wheels in the lowest position, middle and upper. In non of the situations, auto leveling will complete successfully afterwards.
Which firmware are you running?
Can anyone comment on the real need for auto leveling. @Ultiarjan: did you just level it manually and redo it when needed?
Regards,
Richard
Yes. I just level manually with a piece of ordinary copy paper. The bed is pretty stable. You hardly ever need to redo it.
On my um2 it's not even needed after transporting it by car.
I just have a preference for manual... also change material and cores manually... it's just quicker.
But besides my preferences the auto functions should work ofc.
I am running the current firmware, just updated last week, so whatever version that would be.Is the auto leveling now always working for you? I just has my printer 4 days. Did a firmware upgrade on the setup. I'm on 3.5.3.20161221 version.
Which firmware are you running?
Can anyone comment on the real need for auto leveling. @Ultiarjan: did you just level it manually and redo it when needed?
I would be fine with manual leveling if I had not had the failed dual extrusion print in the midst of getting the message that I asked about at the start of this exchange.
Interestingly, I just did an active level and it failed. This was on a build platform that I just manually leveled to perfection yesterday. So I heated the core that is in slot #2 and then wiped the tip of the nozzle and re-did the leveling. It worked. Might be worth a try.
I would like to hear some thoughts from someone at Ultimaker!
Will
Yes, I had that too, the second time it is succesful, even without any wiping or so. But the problem is with when it automatically decides to auto level. I cannot use that feature as it basically means at a certain point the printer will auto level, fail and I have to go down to flights of step to acknoledge with a press on the front button.
Better to completely disable the auto leveling then.
I got a pointer to this message, will give that a try, even though I've been there and almost completely tightened the screws and tried. Maybe I tightened them too much.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35700-auto-level-failure
Cheers,
Richard
Interestingly, I just did an active level and it failed. This was on a build platform that I just manually leveled to perfection yesterday. So I heated the core that is in slot #2 and then wiped the tip of the nozzle and re-did the leveling. It worked. Might be worth a try.
I would like to hear some thoughts from someone at Ultimaker!
Hello Will,
Let me shed some light on this. The message "Difference between detected height of both nozzles exceeds realistic values" is a check that verifies if the offset measured for both nozzles at each of the probe locations is within certain limits. That is: there is a minimum / maximum difference for height measured by the left (first) and right (second) nozzle.
The logs should specify the probe location that would give the failure. For us at Ultimaker it would be interesting to get that data. It might provide information as to why it would be failing.
Dumping the logs can be done using the Menu: System -> Maintenance -> Diagnostics -> Dump logs to USB
Have the same problem.... maybe I send the printer back.,..
Have the same problem.... maybe I send the printer back.,..
You might want to do this first
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35700-auto-level-failure#featured
That should remove the error
My scientific method in regards to working on this problem, frankly, sucked. The problem does seem to have gone away but I am not completely sure why as I changed more than one variable at a time. I did do the adjustment for the bed per the post recommended by neotko but did not find this to work. On one occasion I cleaned the nozzle on the BB print core and a subsequent auto level did work...but on another occasion, it did not. Then, somewhere along the line, I upgraded the firmware on the printer and, this is where the method broke down, I am pretty sure that I had an auto level failure after the upgrade, but would not swear to it in a court of law. So, at the moment I am working fine............!
I will 'def post logs if it occurs again...!For us at Ultimaker it would be interesting to get that data. It might provide information as to why it would be failing.
Dumping the logs can be done using the Menu: System -> Maintenance -> Diagnostics -> Dump logs to USB
I had that happen once. But when I did a manual leveling, it went away.
Had mine delivered yesterday, fails 100% ungracefully. I can hear the z engine trying to crush the printhead and when in front, the plate clearly gets angled by the force.
Not a good start. (I am not new to 3D print, I have been printing for several years and built and modified several printers),
And yes, tried all by instructions/solutions, to no avail. I had to disable the auto leveling to get my first test print.
So I figure from this thread that this is one fancy function to tick of the list of this premium printer as dysfunctional. I will see how it works in other areas, considering a return.
2 hours ago, RunTime said:Had mine delivered yesterday, fails 100% ungracefully. I can hear the z engine trying to crush the printhead and when in front, the plate clearly gets angled by the force.
Not a good start. (I am not new to 3D print, I have been printing for several years and built and modified several printers),
And yes, tried all by instructions/solutions, to no avail. I had to disable the auto leveling to get my first test print.
So I figure from this thread that this is one fancy function to tick of the list of this premium printer as dysfunctional. I will see how it works in other areas, considering a return.
Most often when the nozzle gets pushed inside the printhead during the active leveling (particularly right after arrival), it's because during your manual leveling, the springs got loosened too far. I've got a description, photos, and video here: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005705806-Why-Isn-t-My-Active-Leveling-Working- Tighten the springs (all of them), and it should be okay.
1
7 hours ago, fbrc8-erin said:
Most often when the nozzle gets pushed inside the printhead during the active leveling (particularly right after arrival), it's because during your manual leveling, the springs got loosened too far. I've got a description, photos, and video here: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005705806-Why-Isn-t-My-Active-Leveling-Working- Tighten the springs (all of them), and it should be okay.
That was what happened on my new printer. I had followed your advice in another thread to get it set properly.
OK, admit being a bit grumpy...
I tried lowering the plate to a maximum, it seems to have worked (at least once). Thank you all!
My fault (?) was to assume that half way between maximum and minimum would be a good starting point (as an engineer that is).
Now I have been struggling with Simplify3D that zeroes to negativ value (drive belt jumping) and to make PVA stick like PLA... an complete different story.
Hey, new problems can make you a bit grumpy, eh?
Why not try Cura? It is focused on the UM family of printers. Rocks on the UM3(X).
Looks good indeed, I figure I will use both as sometimes a critical function or parameter is missing. My first was to adjust the support in areas where I needed to drop some extras in a hollow. I expect fin find use for both. Especially after years with Simple3D. Sad though that there are no direct connection over LAN/WiFi.
By the way, I have not seen this mention anywhere. I often speed-cooled my previous machines prints by a freezer spary. I have now expanded the use to get things off the glass when it sticks to good (even after cooling down completely), some PLA that i use is really sticky.
Just a firm short spray (-51C°) here and there and everything is easy to gently loosen without any damages. It even pops of by itself!
Next test is to run the gizmos with support in the dishwasher....
I get this error at least 3/4 of the times I've tried to print over the last few months. It usually takes 3-4 tries to get it to pass the core height check.
The problem occurs during the first test it does (for core 2). It doesn't even try. It should take about 10 seconds for the bed to reach the nozzle (it does for the second check, for core 1), but instead it stops after just 1-2 seconds, when the bed is nowhere near the nozzle. Then it checks core 1, then the error. The nozzle and bed are clean.
It's very frustrating, especially because I'm usually only using one core, so height difference between the cores is irrelevant. I wish this test could be turned off.
1
Same issue here. Doesn't even come close to touching when using Core 2. Then it touches off on Core 1 and throws the error.
Anyone find any sure ways to correct this?
1
Yes, I have found that tightening all 3 bed screws until your fingers want to snap so the bed is very low. Then do manual leveling in maintenance and carefully follow instructions only touching what it tells you to touch (ie thumbs crew, or contols) what helped me is I printed a 1mm credit card with a small handle to use as a spacer for the exact 1mm needed, this solved my active leveling problem hope it does for you too.
5 hours ago, GoguyT3d said:Yes, I have found that tightening all 3 bed screws until your fingers want to snap so the bed is very low.
No, you don't want to tighten your bed that far. The active leveling procedure is a tight balance between the tension of the bed springs and the sping inside the print core. The bed should be manually set at a height of 14mm, see the link in the post from @fbrc8-erin for a detailed description and procedure.
QuoteI printed a 1mm credit card with a small handle to use as a spacer for the exact 1mm needed,
The correct height setting in manual leveling is 0.15mm. With a difference of 1mm there will be massive under extrusion for the first layer and poor bed adhesion.
1
Thats not what my printer told me. Turn the thumbs screw until the nozzle is 1mm away from the bed, then further adjust it with the calibration card. Worked for me, good luck.
Edited by GoguyT3d
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ultiarjan 1,223
It's the printers polite way off telling you the autolevel failed. If the detection fails it will stop before crushing your glass bed (I hope).
Check if your nozzle and bed are clean. Think too much glue on the bed can already have a effect.
Personally I just turned of autoleveling, mostly because it saves time.
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