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How can I get rid of the stringing?

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I have spent a while trying to figure out with Simplify 3D how to correct an issue with stringing.

I did a stringing calibration and got a great print with no strings once I lowered the extruder temp from 220 to 195. But on my print, with the same settings, I'm getting stringing?!

Some parts on the first layer also aren't sticking too well and get dragged along by the nozzle. I had this issue when I first got the printer and realized it was because I was using a glue stick, and maybe didn't let it dry long enough I'm not sure, but when I switched to alcohol on the tape, the plastic stuck great. But now, some parts on the first layer don't stick to the tape, instead they cling to the nozzle and get dragged around.

The strings only appear on the bottom half layers of the print which may be a clue to what's causing this

This happens on both my Ultimaker and Flash Forge - even though Flash Forge has a heated bed - which I put at 60c, and my Ultimaker 2 Go doesn't not have a heated bed. I'e done the atomic method on Ultimaker anyways and comes out with a clean tip). I've also leveled ad re-leveled the beds.

I've only been 3d printing for about a month, but have read and tried testing tutorials out including the different online 3d printing troubleshooting guide. And even though got a great calibration design, I can't figure out how to replicate it with my prints.

I'm using Ultimaker silver PLA. I've lowered my temper to 195 C. And lowered the speed as well. Raised my retraction distance on the bowden-style Ultimaker to 8mm, and on the direct-drive Flash Forge to 4mm. Raised retraction speed to 100mm/s.

Edited by Guest

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I'm going to summon @neotko as he's the expert in retractions and Simplify 3D.

Seeing the model you're trying to print, I assume you've set the number of walls to fit the design you're printing (mold? cookie cutter?). The problem I see is that the line in your model isn't regular, and that causes the nozzle to jump from one place to another, which leads to stringing.

As I can't recommend any solution rather than lower the printing temperature, I'd recommend you to modify the model to get regular wall width.

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Saw this post. The problem is that..

a) 2.85 drips more at high speeds/temps. So @flowalistik is right, lower temp/speed

b) If you want to keep speed. Increase avoid travel paths on advanced tab ins3d. Is called 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements'.

Ofc, if you disable 'Only retract when crossing open spaces' you should get retractions when moving from a tto b, but um2+ feeder can't handle that amount of retractions, unless you upgrade it to bondtech or something better. But that's for other day.

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Thank you very much, it worked!

I lowered my temp to 185 C. Lowered speed to 30mm/s (and lowered infill speeds). And I raised that 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' setting to 4 (and this has reduced the amount of jumping around the nozzle did from place to place).

I just have a follow up question I am curious about. I didn't test going to 185C because I hadn't heard of people going that low. I haven't read many people going that low. Is 185C unusual? Perhaps it is because my print is more detailed it needs this lower temperature.

My Flash Forge Creator Pro printer at these new settings still has a couple strings, so do you think it is safe for the extruder to go even lower, like to 180C? (If not , I can try lowering the speed even more or increasing that 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' setting to 5 or 6).

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Absolutely like @torgeir says you can go. The limit by firmware is 170.

PLA sticks to pla even at 135C. So, the only problem is the relationship between actually pushing the plastic and the maximum speed that temp allows.

Basically cooler = slower. Hotter = faster

Ofc. Cooloer better overhangs, less dripping. And as you print hotter easier to extrude and more drip, worse overhangs.

But all is related to the mm3 moved, not just flat speed.

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