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sbrisson

Ultimaker 2+ new shroud... need help

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Im in the process to design a new shrould single nozzle.  

new_shroud-01.jpg.b8d90aa2fc6696f45dca04b060bcbcb7.jpg

I have the following inputs for my design:

I  use TAULMAN 910 alloy to print the shroud.

I have the Olsson block.

new_shroud-02.thumb.jpg.101e7728422a6c7cf42ccf0a9f12f744.jpg

I want to put the output as closer possible to the nozzle.

I left enough space to change the nozzle without removing the shroud.

new_shroud-03.thumb.jpg.e2626a66ce072717747956010e7e73c8.jpg

I add a pivot at the back so I don't need to remove the 4 side screws....Only the 2 front I added.  I judge more accurate so I don't need to re-center the shroud with the nozzle and the parallelism with the builtplate each time when I need to clean the Olsson block.

new_shroud-04.thumb.jpg.1836ae661ef270124d9de65377eaf6a9.jpg

The questions:

1-Is that normal to reduce fan flow?

2- With more efficient cooling, Is that normal to crank the melting temperature?

3-With TAULMAN 910 alloy, do I need to put some KAPTON tape?

For PETG for example, I drop 10% of the fan flow (original shroud 50%) and crank 5°C the temperature to compensate...with a 0.4mm nozzle...

For the PLA for example, I crank 30°C the temperature to compensate...with a 0.25mm nozzle...Buy the way, is that normal that the default setting for 0.25mm is 195°C...and the 0.4mm is 210°C?  Now, I set the temperature to 225°C...

thanks to reply

new_shroud-01.jpg.b8d90aa2fc6696f45dca04b060bcbcb7.jpg

new_shroud-02.thumb.jpg.101e7728422a6c7cf42ccf0a9f12f744.jpg

new_shroud-03.thumb.jpg.e2626a66ce072717747956010e7e73c8.jpg

new_shroud-04.thumb.jpg.1836ae661ef270124d9de65377eaf6a9.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Hi sbrisson.

Just a tip on your design. Radial fans are not good at compressing air. This means that if your outlet is smaller then the radial fans area this will slow down the air flow and make the fans less effective.

looks nice though and I like the hinged idea.

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