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"lost wax" filament

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Theres is some "lost wax" filament on the market - with 3mm...

I'm wondering about 2.85mm ?

Is there any experiences with wax ore "wax similar" filament?

I want to print items for metal casting for my live steam loco models.

( see Facebook: "Garrattmaker")


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No, I just tried Moldlay and it works. It prints good and the casts come out nice, so why try others... I don't cast myself, but let a professional do it, it takes good equipment to cast a detailled print (with vacuum conditions) and he doesn't have a problem with it. Casting does work with normal PLA as well, but the temperature to burn the PLA must be higher.

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I used MoldLay and the wax filament from http://www.machinablewax.com/ that ahoeben linked. Between the two, MoldLay was a little easier to print with, but the wax was not too bad once I got the settings dialed in. Overall, I prefer the wax filament for most designs. I seemed to have better results with it for investment casting. None of my designs are suitable for relying on melt-out, so low ash was important. The MoldLay left some minor defects, I believe was due to ash. The wax has yielded flawless results.

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5 hours ago, garrattmaker said:

I use "Polycast" it is also a wax filament

(it is just for companies.. not on the "free market")  

settings are very similar to normal PLA on a CR 10s printer.



I would like to use it for melting it out, how well is that possible? What temperature? Does it leave a residue? 


As a university, is it possible to purchase this "commercial" filament?

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Please look to this side

... special materials. 



from my view it is perfect for melting out. And casting brass. No residue

ca. 250 degrees Celsius - time depends on volume. 

the minimum quantity is 3kg.


I don't know how they handle there rules with an university.

they are in Asia - and have a Europe center in Nederlands.

And a center in US (I think NY)...


This material you can perfect glue with alcohol 98%. In my case I do not need support-material - complex parts I print in 1,2,3 parts and glue them to one complete piece. The material is hard- you can use sandpapers und so on...

as you can see on the pict: to complete a castingtree you can also use a soldiering iron. 


kr ht








Edited by garrattmaker

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On 3/25/2018 at 5:19 AM, tarquasso said:

For the wax filament for http://www.machinablewax.com/ , what settings did you find to work for you? Did you use Ultimaker 3 or another model?

Hi did you find what settings worked for machinable was I am very new to 3 d printing butvwsnt to use the wax for making glass moulds 

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We did some trials in our company with Moldlay and professional lost wax casting. The result was ok but not good enough. We have now tried Polycast. We made some tubes for a customer and I made a part for my filament extruder.

I did manual grinding and I have also used the Polymaker Polisher to get a final smooth surface roughness of Rz 20 which was quite good. I have finally managed to print the 43 F7 tolerance (after adjusting the shrinkage rate) at the tube. So for us it was a promising start and we will continue our tests. The most important point is that the material could be burned very clean and that it`s not absorbing too much moisture. The parts were casted in 316L material.














Edited by Design94
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