Is this Printable in 4 days ?

[ian 32]

Good morning every one.

Im sorry I have been so long away from this great forum.

There is a lot of relocating of people in my office at the moment and at the end of the move, I have found myself printing with my ultimaker in a dark wet corner of the store room in the celler, operating my beautiful ultimaker on a cardboard box...

im not joking but im not brave enough to post photos of my situation.. not yet...

anyway back to the point, I have a new model of a Pavalion i have to print 1:100 scale.

The model is relativly simply but there are a few little challenges.

like

(1) printing the base that does not curl up at the edges and smash my printer.

(2) the curved roof is not simply and needs thinking about support.

thats it, the two problems.

So my question is, what is a good strategy for printing this model so i get a clean output in 4 days.... my dead line... eeeeeeekkkkk.

Is this possible ?

Thanks and best wishes.

Ian :-)

 

[IRobertI 520]

Looks to me like printing with support would take care of the overhangs no problem, it's just a matter of amount of plastic and some tedious clean up after.

Warping will of course be a big problem here if you don't have a heated bed. Does it have to be printed as one solid piece? How about slicing off the base, chop it into four parts and print those separately. Then print the rest of the house upside down. That way you'd only need support for the arch of the roof, the rest should be able to print on its own. This approach would probably need a bit of elbow grease cleaning up the top of the roof afterwards and there might be difficult to join the pieces for the base together cleanly.

 

[gr5 2,167]

It would help a ton if you could round the corners of the base - reduce curling/lifting. Also if you use blue painter tape on your bed, put down fresh tape and wipe with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) before you print as this will help the print stick to the bed immensely.

In fact if you don't do both (isopropyl wipe and rounded corners) I doubt you can print this. Alternatively you can add a single layer flat circular thing at the bottom of each corner. One layer thick - shaped like a quarter or bigger. Having a sharp corner puts all the force at a single point and makes it more likely to lift. Having a curved corner makes it strong. Then cut off that thin piece after printing and sand it down.

The support needed for the roofs is ridiculous. That will take a very long time and waste a lot of plastic. I like the idea of printing this as at least 3 seperate parts with the roofs upsidedown to reduce the time and waste.

Or even better, print the roofs seperate - call it a feature. "I made the roofs removable at no extra cost!". That way they can be printed rightside up and the yuky support will be hidden under the roofs instead of visible on top.

 

[msurunner 2]

^^^If I were printing this commercially I would break it into three models. I would separate each of the main pavilion roofs and print them vertically as the curvature doesn't create a massive enough overhang to cause problems and just use support for the smaller enclave roofs. I would also hollow out much of the base to save plastic AND help with warpage. Just leave a couple of webs in there so it is kinda Lego-esque on the bottom.

 

[gr5 2,167]

>ust leave a couple of webs in there so it is kinda Lego-esque on the bottom.

Oh cool. How can I slice a part so the bottom is open? Does Cura do this? If not, what slicer does? I want it to have a top and sides and infill (maybe 15%) but no bottom. I know there is an option for no top, but no bottom?

 

[pablobell 0]

Try NetFabb and disable the downskin in the region definitions.

 

[msurunner 2]

That or if you have modelling software, subtract some regions in the bottom.

 

[gr5 2,167]

Oh! I get it -- I could easily use openScad to remove circular or square regions giving the bottom lots of large holes. This would greatly reduce the warping.