Thanks for the information. The main reason using bluetape is to ensure a safe process for all the people in my company without a stronger 3d printing background.
Thanks for the information. The main reason using bluetape is to ensure a safe process for all the people in my company without a stronger 3d printing background.
If you want to make it easier for the newb users, install a builtak flex plate. Is expensive, but should last more than bluetape, is easier to remove and will make it very easiy for a newuser to use the printer without much problems. Worst case, get a new builtak sheet.
Thanks for the information. The main reason using bluetape is to ensure a safe process for all the people in my company without a stronger 3d printing background.
I don't get it. Do you consider a 60c glass plate unsafe?
Printing on glass is so much easier for inexperienced people imho
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gr5 2,224
First of all manual leveling works great. Just as well as with UM2. It's the same process. But if you choose to enable auto leveling I'm 90% sure it will work with blue tape. It works by pressing the nozzle into the bed until it stops detecting a change in the sensor. The sensor is in the base of the print head (next to the nozzles) - I think it might be inductive. Anyway as long as you put tape everywhere on the bed (or at least where you will be printing and where it will be autoleveling) then I don't see why it wouldn't work fine.
Also you should learn how to take full advantage of a heated glass bed. It's just amazing when you learn all the tricks. Much nicer than tape for a few reasons:
1) Sticks much more strongly than tape if you do it right.
2) Bottom surface as "as smooth as glass" instead of as smooth as tape
3) If you let the glass cool to room temperature the part tends to pop off.
4) You don't have to worry about damaging the tape when you take the part off and then having to re-apply the tape.
More details about blue tape tricks and glass tricks here:
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