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Posted · Observation on too great a difference while autoleveling

I have seen some posts about seeing an error while autoleveling: "Difference detected too great..."

Here is what I noticed, if there is any oozing of material that is uneven, it will cause a misread because of the sensitivity of the detection system. I started making sure the nozzles are not oozing and clear from any leftover ooze from a previous print and it has cleared up the issue.

I found this by way of having the error, then clearing the nozzles and re-did the autolevel and it all came out fine.

Hope this helps as I keep finding goofy things from the noobverse.....

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Posted · Observation on too great a difference while autoleveling

I noticed that if you have adjusted the bed height manually too high with the thumb screws the spring pressure isn't enough to give the right feed back(?) for auto-leveling. We had an issue where every print was giving the "Difference detected too great..." error until we lowered the plate significantly with the manual thumb screws and re-leveled the build plate.

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    Posted · Observation on too great a difference while autoleveling

    I noticed that if you have adjusted the bed height manually too high with the thumb screws the spring pressure isn't enough to give the right feed back(?) for auto-leveling. We had an issue where every print was giving the "Difference detected too great..." error until we lowered the plate significantly with the manual thumb screws and re-leveled the build plate.

     

    I am too new to give a definitive answer. But I find it usually has to do with either gunk under the nozzles (cleaned it and re-ran active leveling successfully) or when changing the glass plates, it can get knocked a bit. It is a springy board and that is why I got the extra glass plates. I can get one off easily, put on another and do a new active level. I have noticed that it is still good to do a manual level often as it will drift out of alignment or start to skew.

    Also, as glass is a difficult substance to manufacture with hyper accurate results, changing build plates should be manually leveled often anyway. I always do an active level after I manually level it. Mostly to check myself or get rid of any skewing that I did not notice.

    And, I have read that there are some glass plates that are not perfectly level too.

    I do tend to keep my thumbscrews close to full extension with just a little back off into a comfortable range of motion. Too tight in one direction or the other and it starts to get hard to turn.

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