UM2 head on UMO

[catohagen 41]

I just bought this :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222200723758?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Aside from the modifications I can print myself (i think I need to print a different top part) what hardware do I need thats recommended (heater,temp sensor/PT100) ?

If PT100, do I need the E3D amp board http://e3d-online.com/PT100-Amplifier-Board ?

If this gives more accurate temperature readings, what happens without this ?

I also want to put a 3Dsolex Matchless block on there but that should be a drop-in replacement instead of this probably chinese olsson block clone.

Edited March 27, 2017 by Guest

[amedee 349]

If you have an UMO (not +), you will need the E3D board if you want to use a PT100.

Alternatively if it fits you can still use the thermocouple, it is pretty accurate; the only downside is that you need to keep the amplifier close to the head.

For the other questions, @neotko is best placed to answer

[catohagen 41]

Thanks amedee, yes its a UMO (not +)

I'll go for the PT100 then with the amp board.

The thermocouple have been inserted and removed so many times, I'm surprised it still works, I'll keep it in the block as a reserve part

Then I guess its just loading up your firmware builder and readjust for PT100.

For heater, as I have the UMO and heated bed upgrade, can I use 40W heater ?

I havent looked up what wattage the orginal heater is..

[neotko 1,417]

Umm @catohagen next time you buy, drop me a PM I know a couple of shops that deliver close to almost ok stuff.

First things first. The one you bough doesn't have an olsson, it has the old old um2 hotend without swapable nozzles. VERY expensive for that. Basically you will get Aluminium parts (retail price from UM reseller is 30-40€). Plastic parts, can be printed on a Greentec, but that should work. Ptfe coupler (the old one! 50-200h print time max) and the spring, that in my experience clones use to sell a very bad spring that can get flex when retracts or do too much force bending the tip of the coupler.

The screws, are too long, way too long. And doesn't have fan-fancap? You will need to 'cut' the long screws in order to install most fan caps.

Next time really drop me a PM. I been-there-done-that for 2 printers.

As @amedee says you can use the thermocupler since is 3.00mm so, should fit on an olsson.

The cheapest route IMO is. Get aluminium parts from a UM reseller, this is the most important part of the hotend. The plastic parts can be printed with a 100+ heat resistant material like greentec.

Omg you also need the 5V fan!

Ok... Alu parts of UM, 30-40€, olsson depends from 30 to 60€ a real one. I seen olssons for 4€ that might be horrible, but I have 2 china olssons on a box for a rainy day that actually work after cleaning the threads (they do machine the clones a bit horrible). The most useless part from clones is the nozzle, from the outside they might look ok but the nozzle interior is really horrible drill and will clog (it really will) really fast, because they use a flat drip to do the inner, so filament deposits there and burns overtime.

So you need

- Alu parts (UM reseller is the best route for this)

- Printed top parts

- 5V Fan (reseller also is nice, but you will need to make the cable longer and solder stuff)

- Fancap (for that I would just use the @gudo fancap that uses the same fans that UM uses on UM3)

- Pt100, optional, for umo should work the thermocuple as @amedee says, and you can modify the top plastic part to install it there.

- For olsson. China clone could work, but you will need to clean the threads and make sure they didn't left a hole on the nozzle interior or a leak could flood the pt100/heater cavities. 3dsolex has a olsson for 69€ discounted price atm.

Oh Heater, you need a heater, olsson/um2 uses a 4mm heater, cheapest and safest route is to get one at 3dsolex (they do have a very good price for heaters, and trust me I have used a few china heaters and I really don't recommend that at all)

I'm missing something?

[amedee 349]

The thermocouple have been inserted and removed so many times, I'm surprised it still works, I'll keep it in the block as a reserve part

 

Recently I started to get erratic temperature reading from time to time (even when the printer is idle), so I have a PT100 board on order

 

Then I guess its just loading up your firmware builder and readjust for PT100.

 

Yes!

 

For heater, as I have the UMO and heated bed upgrade, can I use 40W heater ?

I havent looked up what wattage the orginal heater is..

 

That should no be a problem -- In particular if you run your board at 19v. (I am currently having a 30W/24 heater at 19v; works fine, but takes longer to warm-up than original heater. I should either go to 24v on the board or 40W heater)

Don't forget to run the PID autotune after changing your setup.

[catohagen 41]

Ah, crap...well, i jumped on too fast..

So I bought real expensive alu parts...

ok, but I use aluparts and scews and some plastic parts from this head, and replace

Ptfe coupler and heaterblock(with 3Dsolex Steel Coupler V2+ptfe and Matchless block + heater)

The 5V fans I dont understand, I was under the impression I could just use the dual fan I have now (im using your Symmetric Dual Fans design)

I just hope the alu parts are of ok quality then.

With my luck the ship from china takes 2 months to get here too

Thanks for heads up and all the help

[amedee 349]

The 5V fans I dont understand, I was under the impression I could just use the dual fan I have now (im using your Symmetric Dual Fans design)

 

You need an additional small fan to cool the head.

Now for the UMO, 5v might not be the best option. Ideally you should get a 24v fan. 12v might be OK as well depending on your board version (or if you already changed the 12v step down)

[catohagen 41]

Ah, ok...the printhead itself need a fan. I have a E3D v6 complete kit that never been used, there is a 30mm 24v fan there, maybe that one will fit ?

[neotko 1,417]

Ah, ok...the printhead itself need a fan. I have a E3D v6 complete kit that never been used, there is a 30mm 24v fan there, maybe that one will fit ?

 

You could plug that, but get ready to hate your printer. It makes a LOT of noise... (I could be wrong about this, since I bough some from e3d of that spec and size to test if they where PWM and they where not).

[LePaul 314]

I'll be curious how you make out

My UMO (not +) has the heated bed kit and I was debating if it was worth the money to upgrade.  I'm just not crazy about China-components.  (I have the print head from my Ulimaker 2 I recently upgrade to 2+....just not entirely show how to upgrade that.)

Document how you make it work!

Edited March 28, 2017 by Guest

[catohagen 41]

I recieved the 3DSolex parts + the E3D amp board.. now just have to wait for the UM2 head to arrive.

Just fiddling with the parts here, I push the heater in the block and PT100 sensor in the

block.....and thats it ? I can just easily pull them out again I expected some mechanical fastening would be required....is it the same in Olsson blocks ?

I also bought the new 3DSolex "ICE" nozzle.....it have some chemical surface treatment so no filament will stick to it, ...currently printing some Ngen with it, and Ngen usally sticks everywhere....Its a steel nozzle, but I print slow anyway....

[SyntaxTerror 344]

Just fiddling with the parts here, I push the heater in the block and PT100 sensor in the

block.....and thats it ? I can just easily pull them out again :)I expected some mechanical fastening would be required....is it the same in Olsson blocks ?

 

Once you mount the block onto the head, the screw and washer will keep both in place.

[greengecko 8]

@catohagen

Hi catohagen,

i am about to be in the same boat. replace my old umo [(no plus), electronics 1.5.3 or 4) have to double check] hotend to an UM2+. Ordered also the new hotend and PT100 with amplifier. If I am not mistaken at the umo the carriage axis are swapped. Have you done your mod and if so, why did you have to change the firmware (only because of the PT100?).

I have a self-built heated bed, so I assume I would use the UMO firmware but change the heater to PT100 and everything else stays as before. Wanted to use @amedee excellent builder. Were there any other issues?

Thanks and happy printing,

greengecko

[amedee 349]

Swapping the axis rods on UMO is not straightforward as you typically need longer axis, change you home switches, etc...

The easier path is to rotate the head and change the top -- see Erik's top.

From a firmware standpoint, you only need to change the temp sensor to PT100.

Side note: are you still running your 1.5.3 board in its original state (19v with probably USB power for the controller) or is it already hacked? If it is still original, you should consider going to 24v which is better for the UM2 hot end...

[greengecko 8]

@amedee

great thanks for the fast and helpful response.

you are right i am running still on 19v (an new power source though i could tweak to 24v) and the heater element will be/is actually running on 24v.

can you point me what i need to do to run the 1.5.3 on 24v and what do i need to do for that.

final question if you are so kind to take your time, what is the best way to connect the 5v and 12v fans from the hot end ?

thanks again.

[amedee 349]

To run the UMO in 24V, you will find multiple posts on the forum -- here is mine, but there are others.

- You need to replace the original 12v linear converter by a switching step-down regulator. I use a TRACO TSR 1-24120, RECOM R-78C12-1.0 are popular as well

- You then can route the 12v to the vin of the Arduino, so it will powered by the board and no more by the USB (you can see the green wire on my board in my other post)

- Optional (not really linked to 24v upgrade): you can remove the mosfet switching USB power on the Arduino board to avoid USB passing the 5V to the board (if you don't do that, the thermocouple amp is always on when the USB is connected). Not a problem per say, I just didn't like that as I have a Raspberry Pi always connected.

On 1.5.3 boards, the electronics fan is 12v (using the regulator), so going to 24v won't change anything. (Note that this is not the case on 1.5.7 boards!!!)

Hot-end will get 24v and heat faster; no problem with any other component except the hot-end fan which is originally 12v running at 19v, so that one needs to be changed. If you are going to the UM2 hot end, it is not an issue, you just wire the 2 12v fans in series.

Remains the small 5v fan... The only available 5v source is the one from the Arduino which is only there for the electronics. I would replace that fan with a 12v or a 24v fan, I think this is the easiest.

[catohagen 41]

I'm just about to do this, I was just reading about the PT100 amplifier board and this signal pin that needs to go somewhere...just haven't figured out where...and someone mentioned 4.7 pull-up resistor........

But still reading...

@amedee, on UMO(not +) is it needed to edit pins.h in Marlin and use an spare pin ?

where do I connect this signal port from the PT100 amp board ?

Edited July 3, 2017 by Guest

[amedee 349]

For the PT100 it is easy, you have all you need on the board temp pins, and no pull-up needed.

See this picture:

(Be careful, this is an old 1.5.3 board, on the 1.5.7 Sig and Gnd are swapped)

Edited July 3, 2017 by Guest

[catohagen 41]

For the PT100 it is easy, you have all you need on the board temp pins, and no pull-up needed.

See this picture:

(Be careful, this is an old 1.5.3 board, on the 1.5.7 Sig and Gnd are swapped)

 

ah, thank you ....and just enable pt100 in configuration.h, and compile ? no pins.h fiddeling ?

[amedee 349]

Yep, as simple as that

[catohagen 41]

Yep, as simple as that

 

I have the 1.5.7 board (just flipped umo over) but according to

http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB

the pins are equal to your picture, 5V is in the middle, and SIG is in the right and GND to the left...

[catohagen 41]

well, connected the pt100 and uploaded new firmware, nozzle temp reads 178 degrees...wierd.....

ok, you where right, gnd and sig are swapped

Edited July 3, 2017 by Guest

[amedee 349]

ok, you where right, gnd and sig are swapped

 

Of course I am right

But I have no merrit, it's written on the board (I saw that when I installed the HBK)

There are a couple of errors on the reprap wiki, they mainly copy/pasted between revisions, not noticing the changes...

[catohagen 41]

 

ok, you where right, gnd and sig are swapped

 

Of course I am right

But I have no merrit, it's written on the board (I saw that when I installed the HBK)

There are a couple of errors on the reprap wiki, they mainly copy/pasted between revisions, not noticing the changes...

 

Its even Erik de Bruijn who wrote in the wiki

Well, now everything seems to work, UM2 head is on. Thank you again

[greengecko 8]

Hi @amedee and @catohagen,

great thanks for the replies and helpful discussion.

I am still waiting for some components and checking now the 24V upgrade. In regards to the fans I will put them in series anyway and should have another 12V (24V) fan lying around. Does the original 5V fan to be PWM-able or is it either on/off all the time on the UM2(+), once the printer is on?

One last question. My very hidden agenda is in the end (once I have an UM2 hot end and got used to it) to even try to upgrade my UMO to a Mark2. Next to the hotends (yes I would need another one) it seems to be the software/firmware that is the biggest problem here. Anyone of you has tried or thought about such a mod ?

Thanks again,

greengrecko