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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Hi @amedee,

Just looked at your 24V hack. I have a power source I can change from 19V to 24V by adjusting it. So I do not need to link the power from the heated bed to the ultiboard.

Just to make sure I still need to replace the step-down regulator from the original to the ones suggested by you the switching ones (TRACO TSR 1-24120, RECOM R-78C12-1.0) , true?

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

For the small hot end fan, it is an on/off fan. On UM2 it is always on unless you have a recent 2.1.x board which powers off the fan when the hot end is cold. On the UMO 1.5.x it will be always on (I plan to add a small board to drive the hot end fan, but that won't be very soon as I don't have too much free time these days). So basically, just route either 12 or 24v to your fan and you will be good.

For the 24v mod, the regulator is the key part. The original linear regulator won't do the job (even at 19v on the old boards it can't power the controller, I actually made this mod before going to 24v!)

Mark2: I love this project... but I found that it is a relative expensive upgrade starting from an UMO, and I would rather consider buying a used UM2 for that. As you say, the main issue will be the firmware and I have no plan to mod the UMO firmware for that. @neotko is working on a UMO++Mark2 mod, but using another board/firmware for that (the Duet3d)...

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Hi @amedee and @catohagen,

great thanks for the replies and helpful discussion.

I am still waiting for some components and checking now the 24V upgrade. In regards to the fans I will put them in series anyway and should have another 12V (24V) fan lying around. Does the original 5V fan to be PWM-able or is it either on/off all the time on the UM2(+), once the printer is on?

One last question. My very hidden agenda is in the end (once I have an UM2 hot end and got used to it) to even try to upgrade my UMO to a Mark2. Next to the hotends (yes I would need another one) it seems to be the software/firmware that is the biggest problem here. Anyone of you has tried or thought about such a mod ?

Thanks again,

greengrecko

 

As @amedee says indeed it will need um2 board to use tinkergnome firmware and um2 oled screen to run it. On duet3d for now I'll do all semi manual since it allows to make and edit toolchange macros and more stuff like save z level offsets (normal um firmware doesn't have z offset for the tools).

Also if your objective is mark2 you won't need @meduza printed top but the real um2 top and a um2 slideblocks like the ones I made called beyond slideblocks that now have a final version called neotko-gudo slideblocks. This ones work on umo/um2 since they are modular and very compact, also they work with open belts and they have a tension system that gudo made. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2353849

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Posted (edited) · UM2 head on UMO

Hi @amedee and @catohagen,

great thanks for the replies and helpful discussion.

I am still waiting for some components and checking now the 24V upgrade. In regards to the fans I will put them in series anyway and should have another 12V (24V) fan lying around. Does the original 5V fan to be PWM-able or is it either on/off all the time on the UM2(+), once the printer is on?

One last question. My very hidden agenda is in the end (once I have an UM2 hot end and got used to it) to even try to upgrade my UMO to a Mark2. Next to the hotends (yes I would need another one) it seems to be the software/firmware that is the biggest problem here. Anyone of you has tried or thought about such a mod ?

Thanks again,

greengrecko

 

Hi,

I am trying to upgrade the UMO to an Mark 2 with 2 UM2 printheads. I have a friend which is very good in Arduino coding and he will translate the firmware so it will work with an Reprap Full Graphics LCD... If it works, we will publish it online!

Edited by Guest
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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Hi,

I am trying to upgrade the UMO to an Mark 2 with 2 UM2 printheads. I have a friend which is very good in Arduino coding and he will translate the firmware so it will work with an Reprap Full Graphics LCD... If it works, we will publish it online!

 

That's superb! Please add it to the Mark2 when you do it so all can join in!

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

[quore]

Hi,

I am trying to upgrade the UMO to an Mark 2 with 2 UM2 printheads. I have a friend which is very good in Arduino coding and he will translate the firmware so it will work with an Reprap Full Graphics LCD... If it works, we will publish it online!

@Siebet

That sounds great. i tried to find info what a reprap full graphics lcd is and ink it is similar to the ulticontroller but not sure.

anyway if you are successful please let me know.

@amedee

thanks again for the helpful responses. i will report on my success/failure once i have all the bits and pieces together....

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

@amedee

an ultimaker2 is unfortunately a bit out of my budget (at least currently, but maybe with the ultimaker 4 coming out at some stage the price drops into a more accessible range).

and admittedly the umo is still running fine so i have no excuse for my family to buy a new one...

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

an ultimaker2 is unfortunately a bit out of my budget (at least currently, but maybe with the ultimaker 4 coming out at some stage the price drops into a more accessible range).

and admittedly the umo is still running fine so i have no excuse for my family to buy a new one...

Yes I appreciate that, everybody has another angle -- here is mine:

Starting from a 'standard' UMO(+), you need 2 UM2+ hot ends, 2 extruders, new X/Y axes, ... which is already a lot of money. If I add to that the time to develop a new firmware, plus the other mods to retrofit the Mark2 to the UMO it makes the addition higher again :O

On the other hand, we start to see more and more affordable UM2+ on the second hand market. The upgrade path is easier and well tested, and if I sell one of my UMOs the total price would not be much different ;)

Now if I find a "sponsor" for the hardware, I might be motivated in making the firmware for the UMO, but that's unlikely to happen 8)

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

@amedee

"Starting from a 'standard' UMO(+), you need 2 UM2+ hot ends, 2 extruders, new X/Y axes, ... which is already a lot of money. If I add to that the time to develop a new firmware, plus the other mods to retrofit the Mark2 to the UMO it makes the addition higher again "

my angle is here:

i soon hopefully have one um2+ hotend, i had umo dual extrusion so already have two extruders. son all i need is another um2+ hotend. why do i need new x/y axes? that' s new for me.

and unfortunately a lot of luck or fortune if i would need to hack into the firmware to make it work for the umo. that sounds like a lot of github study...

so you are most likely right nevertheless i saw an um2+ for 1700 australian dollar recently which is around 1200 euros so a real bargain, though sounds almost too cheap.

cheers and thanks again.

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

It's not about being right or wrong -- everybody is in a different situation and can evaluate what is right for him ;)

Re. the axes, the UM2 has the X/Y axes swapped, using different side blocks which require longer rods. In a single head setup this is not that important, the difference is just a slightly bigger print area. But in a Mark2 configuration keeping the UMO setup would imply a complete redesign of the docking system, and the dock itself will be in the way for the UMO sideblocks...

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

It's not about being right or wrong -- everybody is in a different situation and can evaluate what is right for him ;)

Re. the axes, the UM2 has the X/Y axes swapped, using different side blocks which require longer rods. In a single head setup this is not that important, the difference is just a slightly bigger print area. But in a Mark2 configuration keeping the UMO setup would imply a complete redesign of the docking system, and the dock itself will be in the way for the UMO sideblocks...

Exactly mark2 needs the um2 shaft alignment. With our slideblocks you don't need the um2 longer shafts. But indeed to get the um2 print area you would need this slideblocks + new shafts for the hotend + relocate the endstops a-la um2 style (quite easy btw).

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Also, if they translate the mark2, it will need the endstops a-la um2, just to free the frontal area of homing x/y on that corner and the z endstop to readjust the z without a mechanical switch.

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Also, if they translate the mark2, it will need the endstops a-la um2, just to free the frontal area of homing x/y on that corner and the z endstop to readjust the z without a mechanical switch.

The Ultimaker Original has on all axes 2 endstops, So it's very easy to let the bed home at the bottem of the printer...

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Also, if they translate the mark2, it will need the endstops a-la um2, just to free the frontal area of homing x/y on that corner and the z endstop to readjust the z without a mechanical switch.

The Ultimaker Original has on all axes 2 endstops, So it's very easy to let the bed home at the bottem of the printer...

Indeed but I was thinking also on umo+ users that only have 2 on the front corner and needs cable and two new holes to move the endstop.

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

So we have to replace the slider blocks to an smaller version?

Is this design good for us?

Is it possible to use these without the gray parts?

5a333ca4567fc_Screenshot2017-07-05_12-50-53.png.0ad9a84aec450379aafe703f830194b6.png

And do you think we need to reposition the endstops? On the UM2, the 6mm rod hits the endstop...

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

So we have to replace the slider blocks to an smaller version?

Is this design good for us?

Is it possible to use these without the gray parts?

5a333ca4567fc_Screenshot2017-07-05_12-50-53.png.0ad9a84aec450379aafe703f830194b6.png

And do you think we need to reposition the endstops? On the UM2, the 6mm rod hits the endstop...

That's the one gudo and I made. The grey part is for the umo short shafts, once removed you can install the longer um2 shafts. I made them to work with umo/umo+/um2 and um3

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Reposition the endstop indeed. When you home with mark2 indeed you could hit the front corner since the park is on the right not left, but it would hit the parked hotend, since mark2 um2 homes on the bottom left where there's nothing to hit.

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

I have completed the head transplant, and my wooden UMO now have this tiny(omg, its tiny) UM2 head :)

The items i have

1 UM2 head (off Ebay, from China)

1 3D Solex Matchless V3 Block

1 3D Solex 40W Heater UM2/+

1 3D Solex Pt100 Temp Sensor

1 3D Solex High Temperature PTFE upgrade

1 E3D PT100 Amplifier board

I still have to find a solution to the 25x25mm 5V head cooling fan, but for now, I'm using the 24v heater fan off an E3D v6 kit I bought, I connected it to the heated bed 24V terminal, and to my surprise, it starts in cycles together with the heated bed :)

The fan is really noisy, so I have to change it sooner than later.

Everything was plug and play, I had to improvise with the cable from the E3D amplifier board to the Ultimaker 1.5.7 controller board, a little soldering.

And as Amedee mentions in this thread, on the 1.5.7 double validate where the SIG and GND pins are, the RepRap wiki page is wrong (or rather its using the 1.5.3 image on the 1.5.7 page)

Firmware was updated for the PT100 with Amedee firmware (https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental/ ), couldn't be easier.

Thanks to the excellent people here for the raw knowledge of Ultimakers.

IMG_20170705_203448.thumb.jpg.8e87561748f59040c9f942610e747599.jpg

FLIR image shows way less heat traveling upwards, compared to the UMO head.

flir_20170705T184953.thumb.jpg.e02ee8eca068db9c44f7fae81bb9c336.jpg

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Hi,

@amedee

I have aimed to upgrade now to an UM2 on my UMO. Everything seemed to have work great, but now I have a problem with my fans being always on. Even if set to 0% they still spin quite fast. First I thought the fans from China are not pwm-able or so, but I attached my old dual fans (12V) in parallel on an 1.5.3 board as before and now they are also spinning regardless of the fan setting. Though if I set the fan to 100% they seem to spin faster. So something seems to be broken. Reading the forum I came across the BD679 problem and that this thing fries (which could be easily done as I "experimented" with attaching various fans. [i know not a good idea]

. Now my question is there a test if the BD679 is actually the problem?

I already checked but my local store seems to have only BD681 in store. Are they exchangeable/ https://www.jaycar.com.au/bd681-npn-transistor/p/ZT2193

Any help would be greatly appreciated. A test print with the new head looked awesome, but I had to disconnect the fans otherwise the cooling was too efficient.

Thanks in advance

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Indeed, the transistor is most probably fried.

A BD681 should work, it has the same specs just accepting higher voltage.

(Apologies for the short answer, I am out of town until next week)

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

Hi,

Is it possible to use the UMO amplifier bord (on the printhead) to connect the UM2 PT100 sensor to the UMO motherboard? Or do I need to buy a E3D amplifier?

Thanks!

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

The UMO amplifier is designed for a thermocouple.

For an RTD (PT100) you really need the E3D amplifier.

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

The UMO amplifier is designed for a thermocouple.

For an RTD (PT100) you really need the E3D amplifier.

The E3D amplifier is very expensive with shipping and taxes...

Will it work with this?

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Posted · UM2 head on UMO

No, it is the wrong type, it is made for a thermocouple, not for a RTD (resistance thermometer) like the PT100.

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