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kmanstudios

UM3+ just stops in middle of print

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This is the third time this has happened. It just stops for some reason or another. I cannot even get the frame brightness to change, i.e. the printer just stops, I try to brighten the lights and nothing is happening.

Did not happen before I updated firmware and I've chewed a lot of material when this happens, like getting 13 hours into a 26 hour print.

Any idea why this could happen? Or, has it happened to anybody else?

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Ok. It happened again. It just stops. The menu works, but will not activate any functions. There is no error message. Sounds just stop and the lights go dark. This is starting to be a serious problem. Three times at about 10 - 16 hours of printing.

StoppedPrinting.jpg

And the menu just sits there. Can go to different areas, but nothing activates or functions when chosen.

SaysPausing_Nothing.jpg

Edit...had wrong picture....it's 3:30 in the morning and I am not happy about this.....

Edited by Guest

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And here are the log dumps for this thing. I did a stress test and it did the same thing once, but passed the stress test several times after a reboot. I am resetting it back to factory settings in the hope this is cleared up.

Logs

.....and the factory reset did not roll back the firmware. This did not start until I updated.

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We have 1 printer at the office which shows the same problem with the 3.6 firmware. So I am aware, but do not have a direct cause yet. We are investigating.

If you want, it is possible to downgrade to 3.5 by downloading these files:

http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/UM3-rootfs-3.5.3.20161221.tar.xz

http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/UM3-rootfs-3.5.3.20161221.tar.xz.sig

And follow the USB update procedure at:

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23129-updating-firmware

If that removes this problem, please let me know. That gives some indication where the problem could lay.

Edited by Guest

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Thank you for your reply. I started a shorter print (smaller) just to see. Since it does not stop at the same place (different level of slice and different location on model), I ruled out the g-code. I will do a rollback as soon as this print is finished and start a new one and let you know.

And, thank you for putting a version number on this :) Makes it easier to archive versions and know which I am working on without having to open up the file. :D:D:D:D

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OK, came back from an appointment and the printer was air printing like a faeiry wand trying to will the plastic into being....not related, but it gave me a chance to roll back the driver and am now waiting on prints to see if it solves the problem.

But, I do believe that I had a better control on the leveling when I replaced the glass buildplate. It just seemed to have a bit of finer control when manual leveling.

The air printing was a simple bind and grind while I was out. Again, not related.

Will keep updating here as I find things, or, do not; which I am hoping is the case :) A couple of successful, long time prints would be nice.

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OK, it finished an 8.5 hour print with no issues. I just started a 26.5 hour print (one that had been failing) and will see sometime tomorrow morning Brooklyn time as it has always failed somewhere between 10 and 13 hours.

Fingers crossed and an update when I know more.

I still think the system as a whole is more responsive to the rolled back version.

Also, no USB issues so far either.

Edit: Almost 6AM and I'm still tweaking some things after my tiny print. Will be a bit longer to see about the fail.....

Edited by Guest
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On one of our UM2 I also had this a few times, but it was always in dry winter weather, when I touched the printer frame and got an electrostatic discharge with spark. It was on those cold dry days when I would get a shock and spark when touching almost everything. Sometimes the sparks were up to 10mm long, so that must be several 1000 volts. This discharges seems to interrupt something in the printer; it could be a shielding or grounding problem. After a power off and on, everything was fine again.

Your problem could be totally unrelated of course. Does it stop when you are not around at all (then probably unrelated), or when or shortly after you touched it (then maybe related)? And in what weather or environmental conditions?

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On one of our UM2 I also had this a few times, but it was always in dry winter weather, when I touched the printer frame and got an electrostatic discharge with spark. It was on those cold dry days when I would get a shock and spark when touching almost everything. Sometimes the sparks were up to 10mm long, so that must be several 1000 volts. This discharges seems to interrupt something in the printer; it could be a shielding or grounding problem. After a power off and on, everything was fine again.

Your problem could be totally unrelated of course. Does it stop when you are not around at all (then probably unrelated), or when or shortly after you touched it (then maybe related)? And in what weather or environmental conditions?

 

I am usually in bed when it happens. And it has been humid here in NYC the last week and a half with rain coming through about every other day or two. It is the sudden cessation of sound that gets me out of bed or from across the room to find the problem has occurred.

Tonight, I have been on the machine all night with trying to dial in a larger print and made some tweaks to my spaceship design after seeing the smaller print. So, I'm about 8 or 9 hours behind where I wanted to be.

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OK, I finally got an error. Herer is what I postulate is  or did happen:

I have been getting communication print head errors. One is the Er18 and the other is an I2C.

Keeping up with the other thread on the firmware and seeing the Linux overload issue (My words, inaccurate, but what I can surmise) may have not allowed the system to properly close out (lower build plate) and put up the notification.

It took me this long to get a print that has gone for enough hours to cause an error. I was having serious issues with a filament that wanted to bind and grind or not stick with the PVA. Could have been a humidity issue. But changed filaments and this one lasted long enough. Took almost two days straight of failures on the filament to make me change it out.....

Edit

I am going to update the newest firmware version to see if this can be replicated. I have had the print head com issues before. That seems to be a running problem.

Maybe not as I do not see a direct link to the 3.6.3 testing version.....so I continue to print.....I hope.

Edited by Guest

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OK, I finally got an error.

So let me get this straight: you downgraded the printer to firmware 3.5 and now you have experienced the same problem as you described in the start of this thread? Which is: somewhere during a long print, the printer stops printing. The menu is still operable but nothing happens when you select a menu item.

Right?

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No, what was happening before was that it would just stop. Nothing would happen or was operable. No error messages or anything. Just stopped working with only the ability to flip through the menus, but not operate anything. And the lights would dim as if it was in a resting state. It would require a complete shutdown and restart to get it back to any responsive state.

What happened this time was that it had the error message and remained operable (i.e. it would lower the buildplate, display the message and lights remained on). But it would require a shutdown and restart to get the menu to operate. But the system remained operable (doing a proper stop action, for lack of a better term), whereas before it would not respond and the buildplate was at it's last location with the print head stopped, and glued, to the plastic where the error occurred. But I could manipulate the menu before.

This time, menu was at error message only and no select-ability with wheel.

Newer firmware (3.6) would stop all mechanical actions, but menu would move, but not activate.

Edited by Guest

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The I2C error and ER18 mean that there is a problem with the comms betweens main board and print head.

Your other problem (where the printer stops mid-print) we think is caused by loss of serial communication between the Linux board and the Ultimainboard (which drives the steppers).

In 3.6 an improvement has been made to the I2C problem (software is more robust against commuincation errors). What is not yet clear is why in rare cases (as David wrote earlier, we have 1 printer in our office displaying the same behaviour) the communication the serial connection breaks.

We will also improve this in software, but that'll be firmware 3.7.

Since both are communication errors, could it be that your printer is in an electrically noisy area?

@daid do you have anything to add?

Edited by Guest

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I am not sure what you mean by electrically noisy area. Please explain.

I'm in a basement apartment and I rarely get any cell signal here and about the only thing running close to me is my tv or computer. Upstairs people are rarely home. Printer is not connected to Wifi or USB cables.

But currently, I am in hour17 of a 26 hour print and all is going well. I am happy about that. :)

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What is not yet clear is why in rare cases (as David wrote earlier, we have 1 printer in our office displaying the same behaviour) the communication the serial connection breaks.

I think it is quantum entanglement between our printers o_0 Spooky action at a distance strikes! LOL

As for the other, thanks for the info. I am trying to piece this together as best I can and any information is good.

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Well, signals in your printer are susceptible to electromagnetic fields from other electronic equipment.

There's regulation for that, and we passed immunity tests for this. However, if you put your printer next to an old milling machine with sparking DC motors, communications inside the printer can be affected.

My own Ultimaker original would often quit printing over USB when I turned on a 12V halogen lamp on my desk.

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Well, signals in your printer are susceptible to electromagnetic fields from other electronic equipment.

There's regulation for that, and we passed immunity tests for this. However, if you put your printer next to an old milling machine with sparking DC motors, communications inside the printer can be affected.

My own Ultimaker original would often quit printing over USB when I turned on a 12V halogen lamp on my desk.

Ahhh, ok. I thought that may be what you meant. Thanks for making sure for me :)

The only old and creaky electronic device in here is me. :p

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This will be the last post I make unless I get another error. It seems to be printing ok with the old firmware on my machine. In the last third of a 30 hour print. But this is three successful in a row, so pretty darned happy.

Has the Dev team figured out what could be happening?

Here is the beginning of the print: What will it be?

Correct guess get's a Stan Lee 'No Prize' and a copy of the model when it gets put up as a new print....just like everybody else :p

WhatWillItBe.jpg

Just a note: I will be changing service providers soon and there will be a blip in the images until my pointers are going in the right direction. Usually only for a few hours, but you know tech: It will fail at the most inopportune time.

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My own Ultimaker original would often quit printing over USB when I turned on a 12V halogen lamp on my desk.

Hey, do you have a solution for this ?

My Ultimaker 2+ stopped two times. First was with a lamp as well, second while I plugged in my Prusa i3 MK2 (I felt the rivalry here)

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@kmanstudios the printer in our office seems to stop printing due to communication problems with the print head, but not catching that error correctly. We have replaced the cable to the print head and haven't had an error yet. But our testing time so far with the new cable does not guarantee that this is the true cause.

But you can see if you can contact your local sales contact to see if you can get a replacement print head cable. You could have a slightly bad wire in your current one.

@Melka, usb printing for the UMO/UM2 is just always a mess. It's part down to USB-Serial being a bit flaky, but also USB port not being all up to spec. The USB-Serial driver from Windows adds up to this pile of problems. (My old Vista laptop can print up to 10 minutes, max. Usually less, before it bugs out. Imagine my frustration as this was before SD printing was even an option)

But, I've also seen reports on printers rebooting with SD printing and certain light switches. Not all electrical equipment is equal. Especially workspace equipment has less regulations. TL lights also don't always play nice according to information I got. Using different outlets sometimes helps.

(But nothing messes up your printer as well as a tesla coil...)

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