Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Nicolinux

Olsson Ruby Nozzle - problems with extrusion

Recommended Posts

I have a weird problem with the Olsson Ruby. Printed only PLA with it and it worked fine until now. Suddenly it wouldn barely extrude and would grind down filament. At first I thought it might be the coupler.

Fun fact: I haven't changed the coupler ever since I've installed the extrusion upgrade kit... So this thing was super durable.

However, I changed the coupler, inspected the bowden tube, the feeder (no obstructions) and the Olsson block.

It would still not work. The Olsson Ruby nozzle looks absolutely fine. Since it has a translucent tip, it is pretty easy to see through and it is completely clear. The inner walls look fine too.

If I mount another nozzle, the extrusion is fine.

Any ideas? Did I miss something?

Btw. that's how the filament tip looks like after performing a couple of atomic pulls (perfectly clean)

IMG_7691.thumb.JPG.bac72b6531781ffb7fc5079b105858e1.JPG

IMG_7691.thumb.JPG.bac72b6531781ffb7fc5079b105858e1.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know you have some kind of needle so run that needle up and down the inside of the ruby (nozzle sex?). Do it dozens of times and try to scrape the inside of the nozzle clean - you can't scratch ruby with mere steel so don't worry about that. Something is in there somewhere. This should fix anything adhering to the walls deep where you can't see.

Also it could be something at the top of the ruby (the hardest spot to get to). so do an atomic pull but while it's cooling again run the needle up there to push any blockage into the slowly cooling pla. Do it 10 times. Then when it's cool do the atomic pull (with the needle long since removed).

If none of this works, try working on it while it is not attached to the printer. If you have a gas stove you can turn it on medium. I put a drop of water on the nozzle then hold the nozzle with pliers and heat until the water boils all while counting seconds. then I double that count of seconds. So if it takes 10 seconds to boil all the water away then I hold it in the flame for another 10 seconds. Then you can push filament by hand into the nozzle and experiment. For a brass nozzle I have heated to 400C to burn everything to ash. That might help possibly. Ruby can handle well over 1000C (brass will melt first but glow cherry red before it melts so you aren't likely to overheat it).

Of course hold the nozzle with pliers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I am pretty sure that everything is fine except for the ruby nozzle because I can print fine with another nozzle.

I'll try to:

  • poke it with a needle
  • do reverse atomics

We have never seen this before, and we have a lot of Olsson ruby nozzles out being used heavily all over the world.

I'm not sure what what might have happened, but in case you don't get it solved, just e-mail to info@olssonruby.com and we will provide you with a replacement, and ask you to return yours for analysis.

Thanks

Daniel

Edited by Guest
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends, ruby does use, thinking outloud a 5% extra pressure to extrude vs a brass nozzle. Anders did optimize his design from first beta to current making the need for more heat an almost negligible issue, but it does generate more pressure. So, if there's pressure on the coupler area, the difference can be noticed with the ruby.

Also in my experience with almost a year with ruby nozzles, they tend to show everything and they help me a lot to debug issues to the most insane precision (and you know I'm quite insane XD )

Basically e3d/normal nozzles hide the machine issues better by softening the extrusion, ruby shows everything the machine does right or wrong.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think neotko is saying you have this force budget. The extruder can push with about 5kg. The ruby is a longer passage so it needs maybe 50% more force than usual nozzles at a given speed. So if the bowden takes up 1kg friction and the tfn takes up 1kg and normal nozzle needs 3kg you are fine (adds up to 5kg) but with the ruby you need 4.5kg for the same print and so you get underextrusion.

I don't really believe that's the problem. If it was you could cut your print speed in half and now the ruby should need less force than a regular nozzle at the original speed and should extrude just as well as the regular nozzle.

I think there is something in the narrow passage or just above it in the ruby. It may look perfect but something is probalby wrong with it such as some tiny piece of debris that entered the nozzle along with the filament. Personally I would try burning it out. It sounds like ruby can handle temperatures up to where brass melts and brass will glow red hot before melting and it sounds like there is no glue involved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

[[Template core/front/global/_customFooter does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!