This is the latest model
Posted by @fbrc8-erin on
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/38206-another-error-temp-sensor-bed-on-um2#reply-170820
Edited by GuestThis is the latest model
Posted by @fbrc8-erin on
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/38206-another-error-temp-sensor-bed-on-um2#reply-170820
Edited by Guestthe wire didn't feel loose but it looks like the contact wasn't great. Probably due to heat the grey cover melted...
I will clean it as much as possible, looks dark inside, and retighten everything.
So I've had a similar problem, now my control board is less useful than a piece of toast to someone who is gluten intolerant. I purchased the said MOSFET pack of 20 smallest amt available, but no good. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should control my bed now that the boards are discontinued.
On 4/19/2017 at 2:37 AM, neotko said:120€!!!???
For that price I would just get a duet3d and make the printer muuuuuch better...
So I take it by this comment that the duet3d boards will drive the heated bed as well as the UMO?!
1 hour ago, peter--seed said:So I take it by this comment that the duet3d boards will drive the heated bed as well as the UMO?!
Sem's like it will do, but will probably need new firmware...
What I am planing to try on on of my UMO is to modify it to run 24V, use a powerfull enoug PSU (Mean Well RSP-320-24) and run the heated bed directly from the ultimaker mainboard 1.5.7. not 100% sure if it works have still to do some search about it... But I asume the if Amedee is abable to run the kit trough the 1.5.7 kit there is a chance that my DIY solution could work (but i am not an electronics engineer)
But first I have to make my first UMO work well enough.
p.s: Heated bek kits for UMO are very hard or impossible to find now, it is sold out everywhere...
On 10/8/2019 at 9:36 AM, Curven said:Sem's like it will do, but will probably need new firmware...
What I am planing to try on on of my UMO is to modify it to run 24V, use a powerfull enoug PSU (Mean Well RSP-320-24) and run the heated bed directly from the ultimaker mainboard 1.5.7. not 100% sure if it works have still to do some search about it... But I asume the if Amedee is abable to run the kit trough the 1.5.7 kit there is a chance that my DIY solution could work (but i am not an electronics engineer)
But first I have to make my first UMO work well enough.
p.s: Heated bek kits for UMO are very hard or impossible to find now, it is sold out everywhere...
Duet3D doesn't work like Marlin boards, so to change the entire 'firmware' you just write come gcode settings on the config.gcode on the sd card of the board, and done. This means, that you can make your printer corexy, use one heater, redirect the heaters, sensors, change acceleration, max temp, min, everything just from a config.gcode with the orders, you can set the max, min x/y/x all there
For example (and if you have any doubt as what makes what, duet3d has a very big help page with info about every code)
Mind that this is MY config, for a corexy machine that uses 3 endstops and Z endstop is on the top, like old umo and umo+ (make's stuff easier, but if you buy a Z sensor like btouch you can just use that as homing stuff)
Also the duet3D is a very big makers community, so they can give you help, not step by step, but help after you start having questions about what sensor works better, etc.
And yes, duet3D runs my bed and hotends one board, one psu, and lots of cables :D!
; General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
M667 S1 ; Set Corexy mode
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X205 Y223 Z192 S0 ; Set axis maxima
; Endstops
M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S0 ; Define active low and unused microswitches
; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; X Drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Y Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Z Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; E Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruder
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ
M92 X80 Y80 Z400 E93.4 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1000 Y1000 Z240 E550 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X12000 Y12000 Z1200 E5000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X2750 Y2750 Z100 E10000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M204 P3000 T3000
M906 X1250 Y1250 Z1200 E1250 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S60 ; Set idle timeout
; Heaters M301 H0 S1.00 P10 I0.1 D200 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning)
M143 S275 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 275C
M301 H0 S1.00 P124.55 I23.46 D165.29 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning)
M301 H1 S1.00 P10.03 I1.5 D70 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning)
M305 P0 T10000 B3988 C0 R400 X200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 and remap it to channel 200
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R400 X201 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 and remap it to channel 201
; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
; Network
;wifi in here I did set my start etc
M550 PUMODUET3 ; Set machine name
M552 S1
; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F250 L15 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S0.5 I0 F250 H1 T10 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F250 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
; Custom settings are not configured
M501 ; read heater pids
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neotko 1,417
Afaik the umo/umo+/um2 (old model) are the same, a clamp to avoid stress from cable moving upside/down. My oldest umo+ is 2 years, so far everything is ok (crossing fingers). Just wondering since UM changed the connection to the bed on um2+ and newer models to a smaller/different clamp system. Afaik latest models now use the same that um3 uses for cores, making a solderless connection.
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