You can use a putty knife, but I like a painter's tool. It generally has a stronger, sharper blade. Also called a 6-in-1 tool:
http://www.google.com/search?q=painter's+tool
Both are available from most hardware places, Lowes, home depot, Ace.
-b
You can use a putty knife, but I like a painter's tool. It generally has a stronger, sharper blade. Also called a 6-in-1 tool:
http://www.google.com/search?q=painter's+tool
Both are available from most hardware places, Lowes, home depot, Ace.
-b
I use a hair dryer.
I blow under the stage for 10 seconds then the part come right off without damaging the tape.
do you have a hole in the wooden underside of the z stage then? there's only a small gap between the acrylic and wooden base on mine?
Be a good adapter to make, hollow cylinder (hair dryer end) to slot (slot under bed). Gotta print that in ABS though, PLA will just melt.
it feels like an old vacuum cleaner head would work - I'm just surprised that the idea works so I'm going to have to try that once I've reconstructed my head
My reasoning is that it's the same principle as a heat bed: makes the acrylic warm. When the heating/cooling takes place it loosens the bond between the PLA, tape and the acrylic.
(Based on the two hair dryers i've owned) most hair dryer come with "line" nozzle attachement, mine is about 1.5cm wide which fits nicely in the back (where the small "ultimaker" is written).
Note for those planning to print a nozzle adapter: the tip of hair dryer gets really hot, it will melt PLA.
Here is an example of a hair dryer removed part.
Note: I use Orafol Oratape (cut to 8in wide) as my stage liner.
it's a great idea and the wider tape is useful to know too - fed up with lines on the bottom of my prints! thanks Benoit
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owen 19
Maybe try a glass/window scraper
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