Drop them a mail and they will give you info.
Thanks, will do! What is their contact information?
Drop them a mail and they will give you info.
Thanks, will do! What is their contact information?
info (@) cristadecor.es
Afaik they talk English also
Hi @neotko,
Thanks for the very informative post.
Is it possible to order a couple of these glasses from you?
Thanks :-D
Sorry no I don't sell them. But the shop where I got them told me that they do deliver worldwide. Drop them a mail and they will give you info.
Interested, too.
I found a supplier of Neoceram not that far from me. Interestingly they also had black non-translucent Neoceram a little bit thinner than the clear. I ordered a sheet of each sized to fit my UM3E. I will report back on how they work for me. I am hoping the black will work to even out glass temperature. I have found greater than 5 degrees C of difference between center to edge. I believe it is the cause of warpage of my large prints and would love to eliminate it.
Edited by GuestI found a supplier of Neoceram not that far from me. Interestingly they also had black non-translucent Neoceram a little bit thinner than the clear. I ordered a sheet of each sized to fit my UM3E. I will report back on how they work for me. I am hoping the black will work to even out glass temperature. I have found greater than 5 degrees C of difference between center to edge. I believe it is the cause of warpage of my large prints and would love to eliminate it.
That got my attention. My large enterprise had some warpage that I have to work out with putty and sanding. I did not realize such a temp difference in the glass plating. Makes sense, but did not occur to me.
I look forward to hearing your feedback.
If you try to avoid standard glass from warping, don't forget the effect of the print cooling fans.
Some time ago I bought an infrared thermometer, and to my surprise the glass plate temp was *very* uneven: on a small print, in some areas it was 15°C cooler than in others.
So I tried heating the glass without printing, and then the temp was very nice and even, except at the last centimeter at the edges, but that is okay.
Only then it occured to me that the cooling fans blowing at 100% made all the difference. Their job is to cool whatever is in their path, so that is what they do. .. :-)
If you try to avoid standard glass from warping, don't forget the effect of the print cooling fans.
I concur, but, (ain't there always a 'but'?) in my case, I was getting warping on prints with no fan. I even had bubble wrap taped to the front to hold in heat. I do not have a fancy way of detecting temp differences across my surfaces, so I am going off the posts to process the info, but it makes sense that the glass may have a different heat distribution based on several factors: Evenness of the glass surface (have read about the lack of constant thickness between centers and edges of supplied glass...banana shaped was one description), evenness of the heating source/ area, air leaks on one side or the other (heat the air, it rises and sucks in cool air from the most available opening it can get through) or just turbulence in the printing void as the head can whip around and such, stirring up the air and mixing from above.
Just ordered the Advanced printing kit and waiting for it to see if it helps. But at the same time, would like to hear about this glass and tmostad's experience.
That's a great find, I'll drop them a message
If you try to avoid standard glass from warping, don't forget the effect of the print cooling fans.
Some time ago I bought an infrared thermometer, and to my surprise the glass plate temp was *very* uneven: on a small print, in some areas it was 15°C cooler than in others.
So I tried heating the glass without printing, and then the temp was very nice and even, except at the last centimeter at the edges, but that is okay.
Only then it occured to me that the cooling fans blowing at 100% made all the difference. Their job is to cool whatever is in their path, so that is what they do. .. :-)
I took IR pictures of the back of the aluminum print bed base and the gradient was clearly caused by uneven heat from the heating element. Here is an example:
I have often considered some kind of heat spreader but haven't yet come up with an idea that I like. I am hoping the glass will make a difference.
Well I inquired and received this information, sharing if it helps others...
Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately, we do not sell to the general public. I didn’t see a company name, but if you would be purchasing by a company I would be happy to get a quote for you. If not, please feel free to contact the dealer below for personal use ROBAX.
Woodman’s Parts Plus
800-522-8216
Best Regards,
Jennifer Hauser
Customer Service & Logistics Coordinator
SCHOTT North America, Inc.
ROBAX® Glass-Ceramics
Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately, we do not sell to the general public.......
Wow...so much for capitalism working, eh?
Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately, we do not sell to the general public.......
Wow...so much for capitalism working, eh?
Maybe you can ask them for the list of resellers
Well they did include that one source and a telephone number
What's the dimensions for the UM2 plate? 4 mm thick, I know...
It shouldn't be too difficult to find suppliers in your country. When searching for 'Neoceram nederland' I found 2 possible suppliers both active in the heater / furnace area. I guess also the name Robax and/or Vitroceram are used for the same.
I received the Neoceram glass I ordered on-line. Unfortunately they cut it wrong (which you see in one of the pictures) but fortunately it was in the width dimension which means it hangs over the bed on the sides a bit but the clips still work. The black Neoceram is 5/32" thick which is about .001" thinner than 4mm so it fits the clips perfectly. One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture. I installed the glass and heated the bed to 100 degrees C. Here are the IR photos:
You can see that there is still a 5+ degree gradient on the print bed.
I then did an auto-level of the bed and for the first time it worked for me. The first layer was amazingly consistent. I believe this proves the glass is a lot flatter than the stock glass. I then tried printing the large model (in Matterhackers PLA with the default Cura recipe) which has been giving me fits. On all previous prints the back left corner of the raft comes detached from the bed and curls up; the front left to a lesser degree and the right two corners remain mostly flat and attached. I use Wolfbite on the bed. Unfortunately the exact same thing happened again. I got about 40 layers into the print and the raft again detached. I'll post a picture.
BTW - I see this phenomenon with ABS also but even much worse.
Any ideas would be welcomed.
Edited by GuestDo you have your print space enclosed at all? Until I receive my advanced kit, I tape up bubble wrap on the door opening. I do not (at this time) put a tent over the top.
I received the Neoceram glass I ordered on-line. Unfortunately they cut it wrong (which you see in one of the pictures) but fortunately it was in the width dimension which means it hangs over the bed on the sides a bit but the clips still work. The black Neoceram is 5/32" thick which is about .001" thinner than 4mm so it fits the clips perfectly. One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture. I installed the glass and heated the bed to 100 degrees C. Here are the IR photos:
Where did you buy it online?
I received the Neoceram glass I ordered on-line. Unfortunately they cut it wrong (which you see in one of the pictures) but fortunately it was in the width dimension which means it hangs over the bed on the sides a bit but the clips still work. The black Neoceram is 5/32" thick which is about .001" thinner than 4mm so it fits the clips perfectly. One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture. I installed the glass and heated the bed to 100 degrees C. Here are the IR photos:
Where did you buy it online?
onedayglass.com
Do you have your print space enclosed at all? Until I receive my advanced kit, I tape up bubble wrap on the door opening. I do not (at this time) put a tent over the top.
I have tried enclosing the printer and if anything, it makes the problem worse.
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neotko 1,417
Thanks :-D
Sorry no I don't sell them. But the shop where I got them told me that they do deliver worldwide. Drop them a mail and they will give you info.
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