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ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

Hello everyone,

I have been using a product for the past months for ABS adhesion. It's called PrintaFix.

I really loved it because I don't have to worry anymore if I'm printing with ABS PLA PVA etc...

printafix.jpg.0845bd82f0d20e8831c9db528f04fc85.jpg

I do NOT sell these products don't worry. I just wanted to recommend it for those who are willing to pay a bit more for something to get always a 100% of good prints. And it is much easier to clean because you need only soap!

I started with Acetone juice and everything and this product gave me the joy to print with ABS.

For most of my parts I print ABS now, because of the strength and the easy post-processing with acetone.

Give-it a try!

Cheers

printafix.jpg.0845bd82f0d20e8831c9db528f04fc85.jpg

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

Sounds interesting. Do you know what is in it?

Seems with being washable, it would have to be some sort of PVA type of base.

Smell? Ease of dissolvement?

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

I don't really know what's inside, after some digging I found 85-95% ethanol and 1-5% propane in the safety datasheet, but maybe there is some other stuff but not dangerous so not in the safety.... (links: http://www.aprintapro.com/downloads/ )

It doesn't smell much, at least much much less than acetone.

And to remove the print I was really impressed. The brim stays attached really good, but the part as soon as you cool down the bed you can see it unstick by it self!

I just use a spatula to remove the print and then water and soap to clean the bed then alcohol (don't have warm water in my shop).

Next time I will see if can do a video.

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Posted (edited) · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

Just to bring it back from the dead: had a hard time getting UM ABS stick to the bed. Used UHU all the time with UM ABS grey, but no success with UM ABS black. Spotted Printafix in the drawer and gave it a try. Now I had a hard time getting those prints off the bed.¬†ūüôĄ Using a brim was still neccessary. The results were clean and even. Great! ūü§© Problem solved.

Edited by dxp

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

I have a Cold spray , I spray on the print and the plastic will retract, super easy to remove ;p .

One colleague did not know this technique and a piece of glass came out with the print! so yea it stick really well...

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

Oh, thank you for that trick! I used Ethanol sometimes - it has a strong capillar effect and creeps between glass and print. But you have to renew the the glue.

Btw: taller prints with corners still lift their exposed parts. So, a brim is very recommended for ABS.

 

PETG also sticks good, but not as hellish as flat ABS-parts.

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!
On 4/3/2019 at 8:31 AM, Swissengineer said:

I have a Cold spray , I spray on the print and the plastic will retract, super easy to remove ;p .

One colleague did not know this technique and a piece of glass came out with the print! so yea it stick really well...

What is in your "Cold Spray"?

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!
On 4/3/2019 at 2:31 PM, Swissengineer said:

I have a Cold spray , I spray on the print and the plastic will retract, super easy to remove ūüėú .

One colleague did not know this technique and a piece of glass came out with the print! so yea it stick really well...

 

Doesn't coldspray risk fracturing the glass due to thermal shock, or fracturing layer-bondings in the model?

 

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

First I wait for the glass to be cold, then I spray on the model. I spray on the whole bottom part of the model. 

I have been doing this since a 1 year, never broke the glass or damaged print. Specially with fragile parts which are treaky to remove from the bed without breaking them....

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

We had zero adhesion problems during a two year period using a removable sheet of 1/8" glass and Aquanet Superhold Hairspray.The above product may be a non-aerosol version of that. Nice!

 

We always allowed the glass to heat to about 40C on the bed then removed it and gave it a light coat of hairspray followed by about 15 seconds of drying time using a hair drier. We used 2 or 3 of these light quick drying coats then attach the glass to the bed and brought it to 110C for immediate printing. Hundreds of prints with zero problems. Every once in a while we would clean off the glass and start fresh again. When a print was finished it was allowed to cool evenly then it popped off cleanly. 

 

Most of our prints were done in ABS between 8-12 hours in a simple printer enclosure heated by a light bulb.

 

Several months ago we upgraded to Anycubic Ulltrabase. We have found they work just as well but without the need of surface treatment. By being careful not to touch the surface we only used alcohol wipes to clean the surface after every 10-20 prints. Never try to remove a print until the bed cools then the print magically releases. 

 

For reliable bed adhesion we use brims with 10 lines (inside and out where applicable). The first layer extruded at 125% volume and 10C above normal print temp.

 

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

These Ultimaker Adhesion sheets hold ABS like nothing else - had to use a vise to remove... but almost no warping at all! (The part was 100x60x19 with rounded corners.) At the cost of hard removement. Shhhh. There is always something.

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Posted · ABS bed adhesion, no more worries!

We've been using Layerneer Bed Weld on our Ultimaker 3's borosilicate glass. It holds PLA, ABS, and PETG to the bed without needing any brims or rafts and then releases it when the bed cools to room temperature. 

 

It last several prints, can be recharged with a wet sponge, and comes off pretty easy with water. Warm soapy water seems to make it even easier to remove.

 

For ABS we like to set our bed temp to 80C and that is enough to avoid warping while still releasing parts easily when cooled. It literally pops and snaps as the part detaches. Usually we can lift the part off the bed by hand.

 

If we go up to 110C we get really extreme adhesion which is sometimes desired, but makes it difficult to remove the part. When this occurs we cool the bed to room temp then stick it in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes. When we remove the bed to a room temp environment the bed condenses with fog. With the coating being water soluble it releases the part with no effort. It's kind of cool hearing all the popping and snapping as the part releases itself!

 

It doesn't have any harsh chemicals or smells so that is a plus.

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