Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade

[foehnsturm 966]

@foehnsturm

This new printer has been announced on kickstarter:

They disclose that they were inspired by your magnetic tool solution, is it infringing a licence ?

Just returned after two weeks holidays (offline).

I did put a CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 on github. But also learned that it doesn't really protect hardware designs/concepts. In fact there's no suitable way to do this besides patents.

[Dim3nsioneer 504]

A design published under a CC license might help nobody else can patent it as it is state of technology then.

[rajilpahuja 37]

Wow stole the whole idea and say inspired, maybe this will be the next step to more tool changes, but i think they should have asked for permission for this.

@foehnsturm

This new printer has been announced on kickstarter:

They disclose that they were inspired by your magnetic tool solution, is it infringing a licence ?

Just returned after two weeks holidays (offline).

I did put a CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 on github. But also learned that it doesn't really protect hardware designs/concepts. In fact there's no suitable way to do this besides patents.

[harmenschippers 11]

- Power supply new: MeanWell GST280A24 (around €75 ex. vat). It comes with a six pin molex plug so I made a 6 to 4 pin adapter cable.

@harmenschippers - where do you got the power supply at this price? AFAIK it is (usually) much more expensive... Can you share the source?

@tinkergnome - I've bought the power supply at "Koning & Hartman" (dutch store) and the exact amount was €77,15 ex.vat..

...and can you share some details about how to make the adapter? That would be great!

I will share the details how to make one when I'm back this weekend. I've to go in about 10 minutes :-). I will make a drawing and post that later. I will also look up the number of the plug I used. I ordered it from mouser and was around €5. I will come back to this.

Now I have a question about the power budget (I'm feeling pretty stupid), but I can't remember what my original power budget settings were and I want to start from there.

IMHO the defaults are: 175 / 150 / 35 / 35

Thanks a lot. I will try to print the cone again with these settings.

Yesterday I’ve printed a successful cone with the standard ‘Power Budget’ settings (thanks @tinkergnome) with the new power supply. The printer behaved like normal again. With changing the ‘power budget’ everything took more time.

in summary what I used:

- (new) power supply: MeanWell GST280A24-C6P, it has a 6 pin molex connector (bought at Koning & Hartman, €77,15 ex.vat (dutch store), Link datasheet:

http://www.meanwell.com/scripts/resource/pdfJS/web/viewer.html?f=GST280A&pdf=GST280A-SPEC.PDF

- (R7B equivalent) Kycon KPPX-4P plug (bought at Mouser, €5,36)

- 6 pins molex plug (got it from work)

- (DIY) adapter cable from 6 pin molex to 4 pin Kycon (see drawing how I made it)

- some 0,75mm² wires, solder and heat shrink tubes

I think you don’t have to make this adapter cable necessarily. You can also cut the 6 pin molex plug and at the Kycon plug to 6 wires of the power supply. You can still use the (simple) drawing I made for reference.

On the molex side I gave pin3 (V+) two wires. One of them soldered together to wire1 and the other one soldered to wire 2. I did the same with pin6(V-). The one soldered to wire 4 and the other one to pin 5.

On the kycon side make sure you solder V+ and V- on the correct pins. On the frontside, V+ is on the right side and V- on the left side. The hard part was to put the soldered wires into the pins of the Kycon plug. Patience and you’ll manage. Make sure you put over every pin a heat shrink tube just to be absolutely sure to have no short circuit. Also make sure that the 6 wires are not to wide for the plug otherwise the plug parts won’t fit together. I did some tape around it to make it look nice (not necessary at all).

[neotko 1,410]

Nice. I did the lazy path to use the same PSU but I did just cut the psu cable before connector. The C6P and R7B are the same, except the connector, so they have 4 wires red/blue positive and black/white negative. Is very easy to install a kycon without making a conversion cable. Ofc your mod is cleaner as you leave the psu as it is.

[rajilpahuja 37]

Hi guys,

I just read On the site that i can have two print heads extra, i would like to know if this can be done, i am willing to spend the extra cash for this, i plan to use one extruder for the outline with a smaller nozzle for detail, and bigger like 0.8 or 1mm nozzle for the infill, and the third for support structure, please let me know on this, thanks in advance

Rajil

[foehnsturm 966]

@rajilpahuja, We just need to mirror the head and dock parts and add a second tab to the coupling. So this is already 95% done.

Currently we're trying to figure out if and how we could add the 3rd extrusion train without replacing the electronics (which only has drivers and I/O for two - or since recently even just one - extruder).

[rajilpahuja 37]

@rajilpahuja, We just need to mirror the head and dock parts and add a second tab to the coupling. So this is already 95% done.

Currently we're trying to figure out if and how we could add the 3rd extrusion train without replacing the electronics (which only has drivers and I/O for two - or since recently even just one - extruder).

I kinda guessed that, that the board doesn't have that capability, maybe need to make a extension board and add some power to it, i did see another ext slot on the main board, or maybe we can make the mark two board bigger with individual power to it, that way it could change the game

[ultiarjan 1,207]

update on the leaning thing.

Remember I did a test with cura 2.5 and 2.6beta, and only had the leaning on 2.6 beta?

Just did a test based on Cura 2.6 final..... no leaning..... and i did NOT make any changes to the offset values since the last test...

Ohh and I also did not have a Z issue at the start of the print...

Any off you tried 2.6 final?

[RudydG 48]

update on the leaning thing.

Remember I did a test with cura 2.5 and 2.6beta, and only had the leaning on 2.6 beta?

Just did a test based on Cura 2.6 final.....  no leaning..... and i did NOT make any changes to the offset values since the last test...

Ohh and I also did not have a Z issue at the start of the print...

Any off you tried 2.6 final?

 

Yes, i am on Cura 2.6 final now. Never tested the 2.6 Beta.

Did a new calibration X-Y.

And a few prints pla+pva (just struggling with adhesion of PVA) but i see no leaning.

Only thing in encountered with the 2.6, that you have to enter the X and Y start like in the previous versions, to avoid a strange move of the second extruder in the print process. This still puzzles me.

[rajilpahuja 37]

Hi,

what if i would wanna switch from dual to single mode for some prints, and use more build area, just disabling settings for dual would work, or would need to change the firmware in the printer ?

[ultiarjan 1,207]

Even simpler. Just slice in cura using the normal um2+ machine setup. No need to change anything. Except ofc remove physically the dock if you need that part of the bed space.

[rigs 735]

Still no explanation regarding this problem of layers leaned with S3D ?

@tinkergnome & all : You think to make an update ( firmware ) ?

thanks.

[RudydG 48]

update on the leaning thing.

Remember I did a test with cura 2.5 and 2.6beta, and only had the leaning on 2.6 beta?

Just did a test based on Cura 2.6 final.....  no leaning..... and i did NOT make any changes to the offset values since the last test...

Ohh and I also did not have a Z issue at the start of the print...

Any off you tried 2.6 final?

Yes, i am on Cura 2.6 final now. Never tested the 2.6 Beta.

Did a new calibration X-Y.

And a few prints pla+pva (just struggling with adhesion of PVA) but i see no leaning.

Only thing in encountered with the 2.6, that you have to enter the X and Y start like in the previous versions, to avoid a strange move of the second extruder in the print process. This still puzzles me.

Update 2:

Bad luck, it is still there, now leaning in the X direction to the right. (cura 2.6 pla + pva , 0,1mm layerheight)

This is sad. Think i will have to put the project on hold until it is properly solved.

Update 3:

Something funny came up. Halway the print, which i see leaning to the right, i checked my offsets again. The X was  xx.17? I was quit sure that i had it put on a even number.

Anyway, changed it halfprint to a round value (rounded to .05), like it is advised now in the new calibration section of the build manual. Will check this in the morning.

Update 4:

This morning, the print seems to be straight again (from the point i changed the X value to a rounded value)

Still some 12hrs to go, then the print is finished, and i can put a ruler against it.

Edited June 25, 2017 by Guest

[MarcoUbtz 15]

About the leaning's issue.

I was thinking that you could move part of the T1's offset on the slicer. In few words I mean you might try to move the decimal part [or at least one part] on the offset extruder present in S3D and select "apply toolhead offset to g-code coordinates". The selection of "apply toolhead offset" is necessary to get a clean g-code and to not interfere with mark2's toolchange script.

For example, after the calibration we have an offset like X [18.17] Y [-25.38].

We leave a setting similar to X [18.00] Y [-25.00] on the machine, instead in S3D we set an X [0.17] Y [-00.38] and we apply the toolhead offset. I think Cura requires the modification of the machine definition files because it doesn't have a similar setting.

I did not test it because I am working with single.

Do you think it could be a temporary solution?

[RudydG 48]

About the leaning's issue.

I was thinking that you could move part of the T1's offset on the slicer. In few words I mean you might try to move the decimal part [or at least one part] on the offset extruder present in S3D and select "apply toolhead offset to g-code coordinates". The selection of "apply toolhead offset" is necessary to get a clean g-code and to not interfere with mark2's toolchange script.

For example, after the calibration we have an offset like X [18.17] Y [-25.38].

We leave a setting similar to X [18.00] Y [-25.00] on the machine, instead in S3D we set an X [0.17] Y [-00.38] and we apply the toolhead offset. I think Cura requires the modification of the machine definition files because it doesn't have a similar setting.

I did not test it because I am working with single.

Do you think it could be a temporary solution?

Marco, yes, i think it could be a solution. But i dont know of it can be used in cura?

And ofcourse, it requires a 2 step calibration.

[harmenschippers 11]

I've something weird going on. Yesterday I changed material from pla to abs and made a single color print. When the print is finished the printer retracts all the filament out of the printer and then the head will go to home position. Today I had the same behaviour. I did not have this issue printing with pla. I sliced the model with S3D, but I haven't changed Gcode or anything. Is this a firmware thing? or am I doing something wrong.

[Siebet 27]

Hi,

I have an old UMO with an old Ultimaker motherboard.

I want to change the printhead to an printhead of an UM2 (Not 2+).

That's possible I think?

But, if it possible, I want to use 2 UM2 printheads and this great Mark 2 system...

Is this possible with the old motherboard?

[neotko 1,410]

Hi,

I have an old UMO with an old Ultimaker motherboard.

I want to change the printhead to an printhead of an UM2 (Not 2+).

That's possible I think?

But, if it possible, I want to use 2 UM2 printheads and this great Mark 2 system...

Is this possible with the old motherboard?

The main issue is that while it could be possible to use it, the firmware from @tinkergnome runs on the um2 oled display, so you would need the 100€ish display to make it work, also most probably the um2 board (but I think that could be work out). So, long story short, unless someone translates all tinkergnome firmware to the umo/reprap display, it would not be possible to use it atm without expending more money.

I'm starting with the @gudo ZGEMark2 beta, but I'll use a Duet3D board that allows to semi-manually to do all the key stuff.

[Siebet 27]

Hi,

I have an old UMO with an old Ultimaker motherboard.

I want to change the printhead to an printhead of an UM2 (Not 2+).

That's possible I think?

But, if it possible, I want to use 2 UM2 printheads and this great Mark 2 system...

Is this possible with the old motherboard?

The main issue is that while it could be possible to use it, the firmware from @tinkergnome runs on the um2 oled display, so you would need the 100€ish display to make it work, also most probably the um2 board (but I think that could be work out). So, long story short, unless someone translates all tinkergnome firmware to the umo/reprap display, it would not be possible to use it atm without expending more money.

I'm starting with the @gudo ZGEMark2 beta, but I'll use a Duet3D board that allows to semi-manually to do all the key stuff.

And with an reprap full graphic smart controller? Is it not possible to run the UM2 interface on these displays? Or are there other solutions? 100 euro for an display is a bit to much

[neotko 1,410]

Hi,

I have an old UMO with an old Ultimaker motherboard.

I want to change the printhead to an printhead of an UM2 (Not 2+).

That's possible I think?

But, if it possible, I want to use 2 UM2 printheads and this great Mark 2 system...

Is this possible with the old motherboard?

The main issue is that while it could be possible to use it, the firmware from @tinkergnome runs on the um2 oled display, so you would need the 100€ish display to make it work, also most probably the um2 board (but I think that could be work out). So, long story short, unless someone translates all tinkergnome firmware to the umo/reprap display, it would not be possible to use it atm without expending more money.

I'm starting with the @gudo ZGEMark2 beta, but I'll use a Duet3D board that allows to semi-manually to do all the key stuff.

And with an reprap full graphic smart controller? Is it not possible to run the UM2 interface on these displays? Or are there other solutions? 100 euro for an display is a bit to much

China displays are 40-50€. Afaik unless someone rewrites tinkergnome display menus and programming it will not work on reprapdiscount or umodisplays.

[Siebet 27]

Is it possible to get the Marlin (Arduino) code of the Mark2 firmware?

[ultiarjan 1,207]

It's already available;

Tinker variant:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin.git (Branch "Mark2")

Standard variant:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/UM2.1-Firmware.git (Branch "UM2.1_Mark2" and "UM2.1_Mark2Extended")

[technolazy 9]

Hi,

I just installed the mark2 kit with the extension board on my 2014 (march) UM2, which has become a de facto UM2+ over the time (matchless olsson block, feeder 2+, 2+ printhead fans), using a second print head from a brand new UM2+ upgrade kit. Followed the instructions on magnetic-tool-changer.com and checked and rechecked again that all connections are done the right way.

With the default firmware, the printer turns on normally, the values I read for bed and nozzle temp make sense (ambient temp more or less), and even if I haven't tried to actually print, stuff like nozzle and bed heat up and homing work as expected.

However, when I install the custom firmwares (as per instructions), as soon as I turn the printer on, it shows the message "ERROR - STOPPED / Temp sensor / Go to ultimaker.com/ER01 . I re-checked all my connections again and again, and I do not see any discrepancies. I tried each of the firmwares available at

https://github.com/foehnsturm/Mark2/tree/master/firmware/V17.02.2

but the outcome is still the same.

I also tried plugging the #2 temp sensor into the temp1 position on the main board, while using the default firmware, but it works as expected (it reads plausible values).

I'm running short of ideas...

[foehnsturm 966]

Hmm,

what happens if you connect both temp sensors directly to the main board (unpluging the temp connection to the Mark2 board)?