Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade

[danielkrice 4]

Yes it works but you need to change the text in the .cfg files that you put in the variant folder.

 

This is for the 0.4mm nozzle:

[general]
name = 0.4 mm
version = 4
definition = Mark2_for_Ultimaker2
[metadata]
setting_version = 6
type = variant
hardware_type = nozzle
[values]
machine_nozzle_size = 0.4
machine_nozzle_tip_outer_diameter = 1.05
speed_wall = =round(speed_print / 1.25, 1)
speed_wall_0 = =max(speed_wall - 10, 1)
speed_topbottom = =round(speed_print / 2.25, 1)

and you can find the other details you need to copy from the Ultimaker 2+ files in the same folder for the relevant size nozzles. No need to reset, just close, change and relaunch.

[garaha2012 2]

Great! Sounds spot on.

[superdave42 13]

I got the nozzle switching happening smooth now using Mark2 Firmware.   I just had to edit the nozzle offset to 18mm  and set the docking position to X=225.8  Y=180.4     nice and smooth now.

next step is editing the Mark2 files / profiles to work in Cura 4

 

UM3 conversion :-)

[tinkergnome 927]

 

Looks great - any plans to sell upgrade kits? 🙂

 

8 hours ago, superdave42 said:

next step is editing the Mark2 files / profiles to work in Cura 4

 

"setting_version" for the variants is now 7

I think, that's all -  "cura.log" gives you more hints, if it doesn't work.

 

[superdave42 13]

9 hours ago, tinkergnome said:

 

Looks great - any plans to sell upgrade kits? 🙂

 

 

"setting_version" for the variants is now 7

I think, that's all -  "cura.log" gives you more hints, if it doesn't work.

 

 

Thanks Tinker !   no plans to sell any kits,  it's not very practical I guess.

The only thing I needed was 2   sets of the 2+ extruders   which I had from doing the originall Mark2 conversion. and 1 UM3 head with the cores.

 

I just printed the 3D model from the Git hub for the Nozzle shift lever bracket.   used the location from the UM3 cad model  to drill my UM2 side wall for the bracket.

 

I totally gutted the UM3 head lol.  I removed all of the IC's and the resistors,  then I manually jumper wires form the core contacts up to the main cable header.

and of course the Z- sensor is non operational.   ( super easy to level the plate anyway)

 

At the end of the day what I ended up with is a :

UM2+ Mark2   with quick change CORES   🙂

[drayson 75]

On 4/3/2019 at 2:11 AM, superdave42 said:

I got the nozzle switching happening smooth now using Mark2 Firmware.   I just had to edit the nozzle offset to 18mm  and set the docking position to X=225.8  Y=180.4     nice and smooth now.

next step is editing the Mark2 files / profiles to work in Cura 4

 

UM3 conversion :-)

 

Great work!

Just for interest (and as I plan to do something similar on my UMO) - where have you changed the docking position - in Cura or Marlin?

Currently I have also issues to understand, how the z-switch/hight modification is done, but I guess thats another story...

Any hints appreciated... 🙂

 

[superdave42 13]

6 hours ago, drayson said:

 

Great work!

Just for interest (and as I plan to do something similar on my UMO) - where have you changed the docking position - in Cura or Marlin?

Currently I have also issues to understand, how the z-switch/hight modification is done, but I guess thats another story...

Any hints appreciated... 🙂

 

 

The Mark2 Firmware handles all of that.  I adjusted the docking position from the Ultimaker OLED display,  that menu allows you to set the X & Y position   to move to.   It turns out that the same motion to dock and un-dock the magnetic 2nd head also works great for flipping the lever on the head to lower or raise the 2nd CORE

[planeflake 1]

Sorry if this is not the correct place. I have got to the wiring stage and am having some issues. Could someone help or are there some images of the mark 2 board installed I could look at? Thanks. I have checked again and it seems that the wiring pictures do not load for the bottom half of the wiring steps. Is this the same for all?

Edited April 6, 2019 by planeflake

[artistebot 3]

I documentation recommends HTPLA (GreenTec/PlaTec) but I have no idea what that stuff is or where to get it.

 

Has anyone else used ABS?

 

I am printing out the Mk2 parts in ABS (fully enclosed) one at a time, as I know there is some shrinkage, and wonder if it might cause the magnetic functionality and or fit to fail.

 

Alternatively, maybe PETG is better? I do have some MakerGeek Raptor HTPLA but read that HTPLA warps during the annealing process?

 

Advice and material successes? Prefer to use something more durable than plain PLA.

 

Cheers

 

JH

[nilrog 103]

I would stay away from GreenTec/PlaTec for mechanical parts that are subject to force in any way (based on my own experience). It has very good resistance to heat, but that material gives in (softens) after a while. How long depends on the amount of force it is subjected to.

[artistebot 3]

The Mark2 instructions has the feeder located on a bracket near the back upper left corner.

 

Why is that?

 

Can the feeder and stepper simply be installed lower, mid back left using the existing holes (or drilling ones if not present)  and opposite the first feeder on the mid-right side? I use a top enclosure and it would seem that the feeder/wires/bowden tube would end up arching much higher up above the top frame so might not work well with enclosures?

 

Edited April 11, 2019 by artistebot

[conny_g 251]

Upper left was chosen to reuse the holes there, as UM2+ does not have the 2nd feeder mounting holes. You can mount it at the same height as the 1st feeder on the opposite site if you want, there is no reason against that.

[artistebot 3]

only crickets...

Edited June 8, 2019 by artistebot
no response

[artistebot 3]

Whoo hoo, I finally have my Mark2 upgrade assembled, good work foehnsturm!

 

I converted a used Ultimaker 2 bought for ~$600. I took it apart and drilled the missing feeder holes so the extruder is mounted like the standard UM2+. I printed the parts in ABS and replaced the belts.

 

No issues beyond missing wires to connect the hotend and temp sensors to the expansion board in the MK2 kit . The firmware install went fine, except after the install starting calibration resulted in an error "x/y z-stops broken, ER07 Error"  However, after reading here Tinker firmware - UM2+ Extended getting ER07 on home head with 16.12.1  I performed a Factory Reset and fixed the issue. It might be useful to add a note in the OP or web page about this issue?

 

Anyway a couple questions:

There is two "Cura Resources" directories on git-hub, one is marked 3.2 so I assume it is specific to Cura 3.2?  Will the other "Cura Resources" work in Cura 3.6, or is Cura 3.2 the newest version compatible Mk2?

 

Cheers

 

For reference:

• Parts printed in eSun Black and White 2.85mm ABS and  NinjaFlex TPU 3D Midnight
• Dual Extrusion Parts Mark 2 board, hotend, extruder kit (note, kit missing wires to connect Heater and temp sensor wire to connect the main board to the Mk2 Board) Missing wire found in my spares (aka thick full copper speaker wire)
• The base UM2 upgraded to UM2+ using the Extrusion upgrade kit  (I wanted the base printer to be original parts)
• I drilled the 2nd feeder holes Driak 6 pcs Carbide Tip HSS Twist Drill Bit 22mm 

 

My goal is to print ABS w BVOH support material. Once I have cura working, I will install an OctoPi, top cover and door, then post pics.

 

Edited June 9, 2019 by artistebot

[Perchik 2]

For anyone who might be interested, I made a mark2 mount for the side of the ultimaker when you want to print with just one head 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3676194

[tinkergnome 927]

On 6/8/2019 at 8:11 PM, artistebot said:

There is two "Cura Resources" directories on git-hub, one is marked 3.2 so I assume it is specific to Cura 3.2?  Will the other "Cura Resources" work in Cura 3.6, or is Cura 3.2 the newest version compatible Mk2?

 

Some version numbers in the configuration files had to be changed for nearly every Cura version.

Here are the numbers for Cura 3.4 and 3.5 (not sure, but i think 3.6 uses the same version as 3.5):

 

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/23872-cura-341-working-with-mark2-on-macbook-air/?do=findComment&comment=215733

 

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/18043-ultimaker-mark2-the-smart-dual-extrusion-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=220633

 

Since Cura 4.1 are the Mark2 definitions part of the official setup program / AppImage. So, those manual edits should be a thing of the past from this version on.

 

[mastory 44]

I finally picked up a second hand UM2+E to add Mark2.  I have a few questions as I get started.

 

Does anyone have any good or bad experience with using Makergeeks Raptor PLA for the printed pieces?  I happen to have a roll of it.  Same question goes for ABS.

 

Thanks

 

[Wisjo34 0]

Is there any way to change which order Cura generates G-code? Cura places the tool select before the startup sequence so if i want to print a model with only the second toolhead the T1 is before the startup sequence which is ends with a switch to T0. And therefore i need to manually edit the file to print only with the second head.

[navigator 24]

Just mount the 2nd head before starting the print - I use default UM2 printer setting (not mark2) for slicing etc.

It doesn't need any code changes - just remember print area restrictions for using 2nd head when slicing on standard UM2 setting. 👍🏻

[Wisjo34 0]

2 minutes ago, navigator said:

Just mount the 2nd head before starting the print - I use default UM2 printer setting (not mark2) for slicing etc.

It doesn't need any code changes - just remember print area restrictions for using 2nd head when slicing on standard UM2 setting. 👍🏻

How do you specify what tool to use when you are using the UM2 printer setting? I only use it when i am printing with the first head.

[navigator 24]

Whichever head is mounted when you start the print is the one that's used - original head or 2nd head if mounted using the mark2 change extruder command in the menu.

[mastory 44]

I am seeing an anomaly in the way Cura is slicing the clamping dock.  Will this open hole in the planar face of the cone feature have any effect on docking function?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 8, 2019 by mastory
Couldn't figure out adding a graphic

[mastory 44]

I see that the part wall there is actually triangular when viewed top down sectioned through that area.  If I change my normal .8mm wall size to.6, the surface is filled in. If it doesn't affect function, I'd prefer to keep the thicker wall.  I am printing this in ABS on my UMO.  The only nozzle available for my UMO currently is a .9mm.  Not sure how well that would print at .6mm.

Edited July 8, 2019 by mastory
was redundant

[hakkattakk 1]

On 5/8/2017 at 6:54 PM, chenci said:

This is because i want to use the second extruder with 1.75mm filament and i don't want to change the settings. This is just for experiment.

 

Hi, Did you, or someone else, ever do this? Does it work good and what components are you using?

 

I recently bought a UM2 Extended+ and since I have used a CR-10 before I have a lot of 1.75mm PLA/PETG (told my gf that it's worth around 300$, so it's probably more than that..). Therefore I looked into converting my UM2 to 1.75mm. I'm also interested in dual extrusion. After some research I found two different ways of doing this:

 

1. Mark2 with the second printhead and extruder made for 1.75mm

2. DXU

 

I think Mark2 might be the wanted way since I can keep everything that is working great with 2.85mm, and hopefully get 1.75mm working okay. I will also be able to use the dual extrusion.

DXU looks like a really nice modification as well, I think this is also the cheapest option, but I will not be able to mix 2.85mm and 1.75mm.

[gr5 2,170]

go to 3dsolex.com.  They have 1.75mm conversion kits for UM2.

 

The UM2 "plus" feeder can grip and push 1.75mm just fine as is.

 

The absolute minimum is to modify just the teflon part so it's possible you could just buy that only.  But I recommend you get the whole kit which includes a heater block as well.