Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade

[TheFox 6]

ok, everythings mounted and ready to go! almost...

got the same issue as @chiz and @MarcoUbtz

After the first two layers, it crashes in the front left corner.

i tried:

- Travel->layer start x/y and set it to something like 100.0/50.0

- activating mark2tweaks plugin

here you can see the small string leading to crash zone

any ideas?

[MarcoUbtz 15]

i tried:

- Travel->layer start x/y and set it to something like 100.0/50.0

- activating mark2tweaks plugin

any ideas?

 

Have you set "layer start at" in both extruder tabs?

 

Tonight I will check this behavior.

 

Yes, you are right, I don't know why I didn't think it.

[TheFox 6]

Have you set "layer start at" in both extruder tabs?

yes.

i got the newest resources from github, even tried it with cura 2.6 beta (where mark2tweaks plugin crashes btw)

[chiz 20]

While everyone is probably working on the bugs and without a cheat sheet yet, I thought of compiling the following to help those who may encounter the same issues as they implement Mark2 on their UM2+. Feel free to edit if I misstated anything.

Issue: 2nd hotend falls off when printhead goes to the back of the build plate
This issue may be due to one or more of the following:
1. weak magnets - You might have used a lower rated magnet, e.g., N35, rather than N52 magnets.
Solution: Replace the magnets.
Question to dev/proj team: During Mark2 development, was it considered making a feeder design that would freely swing as the bowden tube moves? Do you think it would work as an alternative solution to the weak magnets issue?
2. bowden tube too stiff or not long enough - We want a nice smooth curve on the bowden tube that is long enough to bend with less force. Compared to longer bowden tube, a shorter bowden tube, during bending will have greater force and would push away the attached 2nd hotend causing it to fall off the rod.
Solution: Get a longer bowden tube or replace the fixed feeder mount with the adjustable mount version.

Issue: Extruder alignments are way off

Solution: In the printer control panel, go to Advanced -> Dual Extrusion -> Extruder Offset and set the values to something like X=18.20 and Y=-24.95. Select to keep the values.

Issue: 1st Hotend causes belt rattle noise when picking up the parked nozzle
Solution: The printhead may be crashing to the parked hotend while picking up the 2nd hotend. Consider adjusting the docking position. In the printer control panel, go to Advanced -> Docking Position. Adjust the X and Y values. Refer to the Calibration section in the Mark2 documentation for the correct position of the heads relative to the magnets.
Also, adjust the wiping position. In the printer control panel, go to Advanced -> Dual Extrusion -> Wipe Position and set the Y value to something like 40mm.

Issue: Head moving to front left corner causing belt rattle/noise

Solution: In Cura, under Travel settings, set Layer Start X to 100 and Layer Start Y to 50 for both extruder tabs.

Issue: During wiping, 1st hotend's right fan shroud crashes to 2nd hotend's fan shroud
Solution: Adjust the start sequence. In your Cura installation folder, (usually C:\Program Files\Cura 2.5\resources\definitions), edit the Mark2_for_Ultimaker2.def.json using Notepad (or your preferred .json code editor) and look for the string move to the first head. You should be able to find something like the code below:

; move to the first head\\nG0 X120 Y25 F9000; 

Change the X to a lower value, e.g., X115

Issue: X rod crashes to the parked hotend (not yet solved)

Edited May 24, 2017 by Guest

[chiz 20]

I held off printing and testing dual extrusion for the moment as I print a new set of coupling and head (using Polymaker PC-MAX). I noticed however that even if I'm using only one extruder, the 2nd extruder, though parked most of the time, still heats up to 80°. Is there a way to turn the 2nd extruder off completely?

Also, can anyone direct me to where I can download the Mart2Tweaks plugin? Tried the forums and google-ing but no dice.

[TheFox 6]

Also, can anyone direct me to where I can download the Mart2Tweaks plugin? Tried the forums and google-ing but no dice.

it is on github under cura-resources. put it in Cura 2.5\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts

https://github.com/foehnsturm/Mark2/tree/master/cura-resources/scripts

[TheFox 6]

ok, somehow it worked now. at least the crash in the left corner didn't happen.

new issue:

after changing to extruder 2, the led flickered and then everything stopped, ultimaker did a reboot and extruder stayed like this. seems like some sort of power issue...

extruders were both set to 210° C and buildplate to 60° C

[RudydG 62]

ok, somehow it worked now. at least the crash in the left corner didn't happen.

new issue:

after changing to extruder 2, the led flickered and then everything stopped, ultimaker did a reboot and extruder stayed like this. seems like some sort of power issue...

extruders were both set to 210° C and buildplate to 60° C

I had this power issue, while experimenting with S3D profiles. I started with the UM3 settings, altered them to the M2, and then i got this weird issue (printer reboots sometimes)

At this moment i think i have a stable environement. ;-)

With Cura this never happened.

[foehnsturm 969]

Check the power budget settings. I had these issues to.

Only change - decrease - the first setting

I once started with a working setting like:

140W/170W/40W/40W (total/bed/heater1/heater2)

[TheFox 6]

Check the power budget settings.  I had these issues to.

Only change - decrease - the first setting

I once started with a working setting like:

140W/170W/40W/40W (total/bed/heater1/heater2)

ok, my settinges were 175W/125W/35W/35W

when i lower to 165W nothing changes, i think it even switches off faster.

i think you have an upgraded ultimaker 2, mine was a 2+, do they have different power adapters?

quick check on my firmware: i flashed Tinker-Mark2-expansion-board-17.02.2.hex, correct?

[foehnsturm 969]

Increase the 35 to 40W. Otherwise the firmware "thinks" the heaters will use 35W max when they might use more in reality. Even the bed could possibly draw 135 W. In general, settings will be "safer" with decreasing the first and increasing the other values.

[gr5 2,172]

>ok, my settinges were 175W/125W/35W/35W

The higher the first value, and the lower the next 3 values, the more likely your power brick will shut down. The first value is your budget. The next values are what the printer THINKS it is using.

So to be safer, lower the first value and/or raise the remaining. Bringing the first value from 170 to 125 is almost guaranteed to over tax your power supply. Because marlin thinks it's a wimpy 125W heater and isn't afraid to run it full on.

[RudydG 62]

-Play in coupling

I Printed everything in Polymaker PLA, that was not temp stable enough. The i reprinted in Polymaker Polymax, but that material seems to be nog hard enough; the coupling can flex a little bit.

Also, with both systems, i have a tiny amount of play between the 2 parts, enough to make my second head calibration varying between 0 and 3 or -3.

The fact that the second rol pla is pulling hard on the bowden tube and on the head doesnt help either.

Suggestions?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

https://extrudr.eu/collections/specials/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white

[RudydG 62]

https://extrudr.eu/collections/specials/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white

 

Thanks, will source that!

Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files?

Many thanks!

[foehnsturm 969]

Could you specify the play (where, does something bend, ...)?

So far I noticed one possible reason for play after 1000+ hrs printing. Around the magnets there are rectangular shaped sinkings. It's crucial that their edges are perfectly shaped and not worn out. The corresponding magnets should sit tight.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

 

https://extrudr.eu/collections/specials/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white

 

Thanks, will source that!

Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files?

Many thanks!

 

About the files, all files are also in .stp format in the github folder.

You can easily modify, or save separate STL's from them using free software like fusion360 or Design spark mechanical.

read here how to unlock steps for editing in DSM;

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3772-spaceclaim?page=2#reply-54816

Check the scale after importing the .stp I noticed in spaceclaim I have to scale them down a factor 10.

[navigator 24]

New heater and sensor arrived today for my old UM2 head (UM2+ spec ones) and installed .

The difference is quite noticeable - no more waiting for old head to catch up on the heat cycles and more precise control - well pleased!

[RudydG 62]

 

 

https://extrudr.eu/collections/specials/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white

 

Thanks, will source that!

Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files?

Many thanks!

 

About the files, all files are also in .stp format in the github folder.

You can easily modify, or save separate STL's from them using free software like fusion360 or Design spark mechanical.

read here how to unlock steps for editing in DSM;

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3772-spaceclaim?page=2#reply-54816

Check the scale after importing the .stp I noticed in spaceclaim I have to scale them down a factor 10.

 

Perfect! works!

Have to scale down like you said.

[TheFox 6]

After about 30 tries later, it finally worked! Tried many different wattage values.

Current working parameters are:

140/150/75/75

Flickering light is better, but not completely gone, at least it doesn't switch off.

First complete print (no calibration yet, only offset values set from @chiz ):

[bob-hepple 59]

-Play in coupling

I Printed everything in Polymaker PLA, that was not temp stable enough. The i reprinted in Polymaker Polymax, but that material seems to be nog hard enough; the coupling can flex a little bit.

Also, with both systems, i have a tiny amount of play between the 2 parts, enough to make my second head calibration varying between 0 and 3 or -3.

The fact that the second rol pla is pulling hard on the bowden tube and on the head doesnt help either.

Suggestions?

 

Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ???

[bob-hepple 59]

 

 

https://extrudr.eu/collections/specials/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white

 

Thanks, will source that!

Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files?

Many thanks!

 

About the files, all files are also in .stp format in the github folder.

You can easily modify, or save separate STL's from them using free software like fusion360 or Design spark mechanical.

read here how to unlock steps for editing in DSM;

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3772-spaceclaim?page=2#reply-54816

Check the scale after importing the .stp I noticed in spaceclaim I have to scale them down a factor 10.

 

In solid works they are huge when .STP Files were brought in didn't realise till I sat it on the print table in S3d and it would fit Durr? I'l know better next time.

[RudydG 62]

 

-Play in coupling

I Printed everything in Polymaker PLA, that was not temp stable enough. The i reprinted in Polymaker Polymax, but that material seems to be nog hard enough; the coupling can flex a little bit.

Also, with both systems, i have a tiny amount of play between the 2 parts, enough to make my second head calibration varying between 0 and 3 or -3.

The fact that the second rol pla is pulling hard on the bowden tube and on the head doesnt help either.

Suggestions?

 

Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ???

 

At this moment in am re-printing the parts with Polymax. Altered some dimensions to reduce play in the bottom magnet slot.

Also reduced the 2 holes in the angled pieces to be glued on the coupling, and added 0.25mm in the thickness to get a tighter fit on the existing head.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

 

Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ???

 

PLA tec has a higher temperature tolerance... I would personally not use Ngen for this.

[neotko 1,417]

Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ???

PLA tec has a higher temperature tolerance... I would personally not use Ngen for this.

 

Probably they think we get free stuff from platec/greentec guys XD

bob asked on other post about it told the same.

I will search for a photo tomorrow I can't find now that shows a ngen fan cap and a greentecfancap after 4-5month use. The ngen deforms and curves slightly. All that micro deformation will change the offset of your hotends making it a mess to keep a good calibration. I wish there where a higher temp pla material, but not atm and there's a new one coming that can hold higher temps but needs annealing but that also means that you loose control over the measures of the object.

Edited May 26, 2017 by Guest