E3D All Metal Hotend for Ultimaker

[andi 0]

I have almost no electronic knowledge but I'm confident in soldering parts :smile:. So it was no problem to put the resistor in place on the R23 position.The temperature reading looks more likely now.

(bed wasn't leveled, thats why there is so much warping)

Will see if I can get a more or less solid print to replace the extruder head. (can be replaced later on again)

 

[jonnybischof 60]

Lol, well that's one way to go

I had a very busy week at work, and one more following :(. But I hope I find the time to complete the v6 hotend mount soon. At least it's usable by now, only some minor improvements I had in mind, and some additional parts for clean and tidy operation that still need to be finished. And then the documentation of course.

 

[ultimore 1]

Can you please post here, how to mount your hot end plastic? i tried to mount and it doesnt touch end stopper, post photo here pls!

 

[ultimore 1]

And guys, i tried to connect e3d thermistor like original one, changed in firmware to

ATC Semitec 104GT-2

but temperature is incorrect, it showss me about 100 C. What should i do?

 

[anon4321 16]

Ultimore, did you solder the 4.7k resistor in the correct place on the UM controller shield?

 

[ultimore 1]

Ultimore, did you solder the 4.7k resistor in the correct place on the UM controller shield?

 

how to check it?

 

[ultimore 1]

how to check it?

 

https://yadi.sk/i/HH-u8aPKWgWkU

 

[ultimore 1]

Should i connect it to thermocouple sensor board or direct?

 

[anon4321 16]

Direct. It hard to tell where you have it connected but it should between the pads martked R23,

Judging by the fact it appears you have two sensors connected, do you also have a heated bed? If so, you need two 4.7k resistors. One across the R23 pads and one across the R4 pads.

This shows where the TWO resistors need to go if you using the E3D thermistor with a heated bed that also uses a thermistor:

 

[ultimore 1]

Ok but can you tell me the difference between e3d thermistor and for example K type thermocouple which i use before e3d with heated bed

 

[ultimore 1]

Direct. It hard to tell where you have it connected but it should between the pads martked R23,

Judging by the fact it appears you have two sensors connected, do you also have a heated bed? If so, you need two 4.7k resistors. One across the R23 pads and one across the R4 pads.

This shows where the TWO resistors need to go if you using the E3D thermistor with a heated bed that also uses a thermistor:

 

I got it, thank you) Maybe u know where in old electronics such as old tv or radio i can find a 4.7k resistor? ))

 

[r4ix 0]

Hi!

I printed, mounted and used it jonnybischof design (thasnks for that and for your awsome documentation!). It's really nice and it works grate, however i find some inconveniences for my purposes.

First, i wanted to use a thermocouple instead a termistor with e3d heater block. This is posible if you take out the metal encapsulate from the original thermocouple. You will get two cables with ceramic end, if you take out also the ceramic you'll get a small metal ball, this is the thermocouple in fact. Is posible to use it in the same way than the termistor.

Also i print mostly in ABS and i like to use the fan at 40-50% (it improve a lot the prints quality) i have a custom heated bed with glass and clip to hold the glass. Nick's fan duct is grate but it's to close to the bed and it touch the clips. You won't have this problems if you use the original cold bed or other kind of bed.

So i've made another design for the E3d v6 hot end. It's integrated (it have the 30mm fan duct integrated, easy to print. It have holes for the thermocouple transmiter and dual fan duct for 40 mm fans. The fans are 4mm from the bed so do not touch the clips. I've designed it to use with ultimaker heater cartridge but e3d heater block. You just have to order metal parts and 30mm fan to mount it.

It's still under testing, just mounted it and do it some small prints. I have to test it with long prints, the fanducts are really close to the heater block so maybe them melt. I'm still testing it. Just uploaded to youmagine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount.

I will add some pictures tomorrow.

All suggestions are welcome.

 

[anon4321 16]

Looks like a good design.

Are the ducts positioned correctly? Why aren't they symmetrical ?

 

[anon4321 16]

Ok but can you tell me the difference between e3d thermistor and for example K type thermocouple which i use before e3d with heated bed

 

A thermocouple relies on very small voltage produced when two different metals are in contact. The voltage varies with the temperature in a predictable way. However, being very small, it needs the amp board to produce a voltage with enough change so the arduino can be detected. The chip on the amp board also produces something call the cold junction voltage which is required to interpret the small voltage from the junction of the two metals. The K type designation specifies which two metals are used and the mapping of voltage to temperature and how it compares to the cold junction. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple

The amp board itself takes 5V from the middle pin of the connector and does it thing to produce a reasonably high voltage to the input and the arduino maps the voltage to a temperature.

A thermistor is simply a resistor that varies in resistance as its temperature increases. So the 4.7k resistor ends up connected to 5V and the thermistor forming a voltage divider with the other side of the thermistor connected to ground. The arduino senses the voltage in the middle of the divider. Without the 4.7k resistor, there isn't any voltage or current flowing through the thermistor and the input to the arduino always read a zero voltage. At the top of this page is a sample circuit to sense temperature using a thermistor. http://playground.arduino.cc/ComponentLib/Thermistor The UM follows the pattern of the circuit except that ground and +5V are switch, the resistor used is 4.7k and the thermistor is typically the 100k type.

Sorry, I dont know what would contain a 4.7k resistor.

 

[r4ix 0]

Looks like a good design.

Are the ducts positioned correctly? Why aren't they symmetrical ?

 

They aren't symetrical because the ultimaker heater cartridge is longer than e3d heater block so i decided to use the space between both fans to place the heater (that means the heater cartridge is perpendicular to the 30mm fan) and in this position the heater block is not symetrical.

I will put some pictures today. Is first attemp so sure will be some mods...

 

[jonnybischof 60]

...

Just uploaded to youmagine. Here.

I will add some pictures tomorrow.

All suggestions are welcome.

 

HOLY SH!.. *cough*

Dude, that's some awesome work!

I've noticed the problems with Nick's fanduct. It won't fit my printer because I use foldback-clips which collide with it.

However, it's not possible to raise it much, because it would touch the heater block. So, I'm actually in need of a more suitable fanduct design, which is a problem for me and my Sketchup-skills.

Is there anyone willing to help me on this? I'd also like to switch to a different mounting style for the fanduct, something simpler and more rigid than the current solution in my design.

 

[jonnybischof 60]

Can you please post here, how to mount your hot end plastic? i tried to mount and it doesnt touch end stopper, post photo here pls!

 

What do you mean exactly?

The hotend isn't supposed to touch any endstops...

I have never actually mounted the E3D hotend into the printer, but it *should* just mount the same way as the original printhead. I've taken care to keep it's size at a minimum, so there shouldn't be any collisions. But I can't make actual tests right now because I still need important parts for my second printer build..

/edit:

4.7k Ohms resistors are "rather common", being an E12 standard value. But finding one inside an old electronic device might take you a lot of time..

I bet there would be one inside an old and useless Makerbot printer (just a joke, please don't hang me for it)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor_color_code#Resistor_color-coding

This might help you find one.

I'd rather just buy some from an electronics store and save the effort.

 

[r4ix 0]

Some pictures...

 

[r4ix 0]

What do you mean exactly?

The hotend isn't supposed to touch any endstops...

I have never actually mounted the E3D hotend into the printer, but it *should* just mount the same way as the original printhead. I've taken care to keep it's size at a minimum, so there shouldn't be any collisions. But I can't make actual tests right now because I still need important parts for my second printer build..

 

It isn't like this exactly. The hotend doesn't touch the endstops, XY blocks do, but linear bearing fix the position of XY blocks. In original hot end linear bearings are in perfect cross, in nick's, jonny's and mine design are not. This is very important. The nozzle is out of its original place and the block doesn't touch the endstops cause the bearing do it first. It's far away from touching it!!

If you look ultimaker from the top the axes make one kross. In jonny's design the hot end could be on the first or on the third quarter (in ultimaker original is on the fourth) that means the nozzle never could have the same position in the bed, so you need adjust the xy endstops and do the printable space smaller or move the bed. I put the hot end in the fourth quarter and even is not in the same position as original is not far away.

Even that you must adjust the XY endstops changing the trigger position in the XY blocks. I use ones designed by alan89, in that xy block the endstop trigger is glue so you can set whatever you want.

I'm going to design new triggers for this mount and upload to youmagine.

I don't know if i've explained my self good enough :???: ...

 

[r4ix 0]

I've noticed the problems with Nick's fanduct. It won't fit my printer because I use foldback-clips which collide with it.

However, it's not possible to raise it much, because it would touch the heater block. So, I'm actually in need of a more suitable fanduct design, which is a problem for me and my Sketchup-skills.

Is there anyone willing to help me on this? I'd also like to switch to a different mounting style for the fanduct, something simpler and more rigid than the current solution in my design.

 

Same problems i found, for this reason i decided to design all the mount. I can upload the solidworks file. Nick's file help me a lot with the process, to do it little bit faster. Which software are you using?

 

[anon4321 16]

Hey Jonny, I decided to buy moi 3d as I need a duct to work with the UM block. They have a 30 day trial but mine had expired.

Basically you draw some curves and then use the loft function. Then the offset function to convert the surface to a solid.

moi3d is relatively cheap compared to the others @ 300USD. However, it's not ideal for mechanical shapes as specifying dimensions and distances is a bit cumbersome. It can be used for mechanical shapes but it is really designed for organic shapes.

It seems to do just about everything in DSM plus the all important loft function which was recently REMOVED from DSM.

Here is a preview of my new fan duct design for the E3D V6 with the UM block that I'm tentatively calling "The Camel Toe":

 

This shows the the curves used To get them it is a lot of trail and error ..

 

[jonnybischof 60]

Same problems i found, for this reason i decided to design all the mount. I can upload the solidworks file. Nick's file help me a lot with the process, to do it little bit faster. Which software are you using?

 

I'm using Sketchup, meaning I pretty much scratched the limits with the mount already. Making a fanduct with consistent wall thickness with Sketchup is simply impossible.

I don't have any experience with "real" CAD programs, but I want to get into one soon. But my company has to buy the software - I'm already spending all my money on hardware stuff o.O

@anon

Nice camel toe

Don't forget the heater cartridge in your design - it takes up considerable space...

 

[anon4321 16]

Jonny, Try moi 3d, it;s free for 30 days.

Darn you!!!!

Thanks, I didn't consider that the heater sticks out like 4.5mm, will need to check that.

 

[duesentrieb 0]

Moi 3D is great. I tried the trial and will purchase the real version now. 123D is also okay, but not that good, and you can only use their proprietary format, which sucks, and cannot import or exprot other formats. Jonny, I have the same situation at the company... Useing 123D here to do small quick stuff. Moi3D is very intuitive it´s like a drawing programm like Adobe Illustrator, but with 3 dimensions.

What´s the latest with print quality and 3ED. First all were amazed, later not anymore... What is it now? Worht a try? Better than the original Um1 Hotend or other Hotends? What are the main advantages? Higher print speeds? Higher temps? Have read the first 10 pages of this thread, still working on the rest. A short update would be great. Thanks.

 

[atelles 0]

Have you tried http://fusion360.autodesk.com/about? It's supposed to be free for non commercial use.

I found it much easier than SolidWords, and it's free!