E3D All Metal Hotend for Ultimaker

[zoev89 73]

Hi Macua

For hacking your firmware you have to install in custom Marlin software. Do you have a UMO or a UM2? For the UMO you can go to http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ specify what you need. There you can also specify the maximum temperature.

For the oil what I found on the internet was usually people use salad oil, something natural. In my case with the sunflower oil it smells good if you use too much oil.

I like the hotend as well. With the oil I never have issues and I don't have to worry about the teflon part when I print some ABS.

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Could someone possible shed some light on what's required to run the v6 on the Ultimaker 2 with regards to the heater please? I have just received my v6 with the PT100 heater block, I opted for the 24v kit which I believe operates at 40w, and I also ordered an additional heater 24v 25w heater cartridge as this was available as a spare part through e3d.

Will the 24v 25w heater make this a plug and play solution without any firmware changes?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Yes it's plug and play with the pt100 and heater. I'm about to do some test prints again myself but have not had a lot of succes with pla....

The only thing that could require a firmware change is if you use a headmount that's bigger the the stock mount, to avoid it from crashing into the sides. But this should not be needed.

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Thanks for clearing that up. e3d should do a Ultimaker 2 kit then! I have also ordered one of these aluminium e3d mounts so that will be interesting to see how that all fits up.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Nice mount. Where did you get it?

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Nice mount. Where did you get it?

 

Just purchased it through the Aliexpress website, even arrived with an e3d replica, heater, fan ect! just trying to hunt down some files for the fan mounts at the moment, then when I get a chance I will put it all together.

[zoev89 73]

It looks like the Rai hotend mount. I am using that one and it is exactly the same only different makerial:)

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Curious as to what needs to be done with the back/rear heatsink fan?

Just realised the rear ultimaker fan is smaller than the 30mm one (supplied with my e3d) the I would like to use.

How would I go about using the new e3d 30mm fan as a replacement for the one thats constantly on (5v 0.58W?),I have spare a 12v 0.1A fan and a 24v 0.08Afan) Looking online it seems the 12v fan I have will be ok to run from the std ultimaker constant fan source but I feel this doesn't put out anywhere near enough air required.

Anyone have any recommendations? Is this a firmware tweak or should I be looking for a new 30mm fan, if so what rating should i be aiming for?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

easiest is just to get a new 30mm 5volt fan ...

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Thanks ultiarjan, I will look into sourcing a new fan then.

Just on a side note, has anyone got a link for someone with no experience who wanted to start manipulating the ultimaker 2 firmware? This new head causes a bit of crashing so I need to reduce the x and y travel distance parameters.

And on another side note, the e3d pt100 block, with a 24v 25w heater and a new pt100 sensor is a direct replacement and seems to work great! I was heating and cooling the nozzle last night with great success..... -oh the little things in life-

[ultiarjan 1,223]

has anyone got a link for someone with no experience who wanted to start manipulating the ultimaker 2 firmware?

 

think his will help you; http://tinyurl.com/o9vkkav

[3DukeEngineering 2]

 

has anyone got a link for someone with no experience who wanted to start manipulating the ultimaker 2 firmware?

 

think his will help you;  http://tinyurl.com/o9vkkav

 

Thanks again. For a total beginner should I be looking at http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/ also?

[jcosmo 5]

I've just finished rebuilding my UItimaker Original to use an E3D hot end, and decided to give the Volcano a try to see how it went.

A few comments at this time:

- I originally used the heater from the Ultimaker, and it works fine in the normal E3D hot end (it just sticks out the side), but won't work in the Volcano as it's too long.

- I'm using the E3D thermistor, largely so that I can switch between the Volcano and normal E3D.  The E3D block for the V6 which takes the thermocouple was considered, but they don't have a volcano version.

- I've wired the E3D end to the second heater, leaving it possible for me to switch back to the Ultimaker nozzle without soldering.  This required just a couple of changes in the pins.h file for Marlin, and a few other little things in the configuration.h of Marlin.  I'll push these to github some time.

- None of the cables that come with the E3D are long enough for an Ultimaker, currently I have an unholy mess of stuff dangling over the side of my printer to reach the electronics.

- I ordered a 12v version (dumb!), but was easily able to order a 24V heater from a local supplier which fit fine into the Volcano block.

- It's still early days in the printing, but I've yet to get a good print out of the Volcano, not sure if it's underextrusion or a slicing problem.  It doesn't seem to be a blockage, or feed, based underextrusion, everything melts and flows very (too?) easily.

- It seems that the Volcano needs lower temperatures than the normal block.  At least for the Nylon I'm trying out, even at 230 degrees, it's running very very easily, and will drip from the nozzle in almost no time.

- I've just wired the 12v fan into a separate power block at the moment.  It may be possible to wire it to the 12v output on the electronics board, but this didn't work for me. I'm running a number of LED light strips from that 12v output.  Adding the fan overloaded they system, but didn't want to disconnect the lights to see if it reduced the load enough to run the fan on its own.

- The 12v cooling fan is dead silent - at first I thought I'd failed to wire it up correctly and wasted 15 minutes checking wiring before realising it was going round.  Someone else said theirs was noisy - if so then the current fan is a nice step forward.

I'm currently using a PLA hot end mount, but I'll replace that shortly with an ABS one, though it's not softened or deformed at all.  I'm using this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount  but it's not ideal.  

 - It's shaped so that it runs into the banana blocks, thus failing to trigger the min Y and max X end stops.  I moved the min Y end stop to fix with this, but have not yet bothered with the max X.  Thus a loss of print area.

- It seems possible to move the max Y end stop a bit further away, perhaps gaining back the lost space.

 - On the plus side, it's shorter than the Ultimaker mount, which gives an increase in available height, which is nice, although I've never printed something that tall anyway.

- I'll be trying a couple of the other mounts mentioned in this thread to see if they work more easily.

Edited September 14, 2015 by Guest

[amedee 349]

I'm currently using a PLA hot end mount, but I'll replace that shortly with an ABS one, though it's not softened or deformed at all.  I'm using this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount  but it's not ideal.  

 

I still have an unused E3D hotend in my toolbox and still undecided to use it or not, but I was thinking using @jonnybischof design (here)

Any other recommendation for the UMO?

[zoev89 73]

I have used the mooncatus blocks and I made them 1 mm smaller and I put the pullies the other way arround and I have 212x212 room. A little more then originally:) I use the same hotend mount you use.

[3DukeEngineering 2]

I have managed to get the e3d all set up and used tinker gnome's firmware. What a piece of beauty my machine is now. I actually think my print quality is phenomenally better with the e3d and the solid aluminium head!

[greenlee 2]

If anyone wants to convert to E3D and keep the stock heater cartridge and PT100, I been making these for my hot end E3D conversions.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Nice.

of course E3D sells blocks now for use with a PT100, but then you need to use there bigger diameter heater.

[macua85 52]

Did they sort the jamming too!?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Did they sort the jamming too!?

 

for PLA I don't think so.... although some people claim success... I would not advice E3D for PLA, after my experiments with E3D I just go a lot happier with my UM2 heads

[macua85 52]

 

Did they sort the jamming too!?

 

for PLA I don't think so.... although some people claim success... I would not advice E3D for PLA, after my experiments with E3D I just go a lot happier with my UM2 heads

 

Yup same here, since I went with a design using all original ultimaker hot end parts, I've had no problem printing anything.

[gadavis99 0]

If anyone wants to convert to E3D and keep the stock heater cartridge and PT100, I been making these for my hot end E3D conversions.

 

I'm interested in one of these - can you PM me? Trying to keep my UM2 as stock as possible - why change heater and temp sensor if they work?

Thanks!

GD

[jcosmo 5]

 

I'm currently using a PLA hot end mount, but I'll replace that shortly with an ABS one, though it's not softened or deformed at all.  I'm using this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount  but it's not ideal.  

 

I still have an unused E3D hotend in my toolbox and still undecided to use it or not, but I was thinking using @jonnybischof  design (here)

Any other recommendation for the UMO?

 

I've used the setup I described above to print quite a bit of nylon, and it's worked well.

I've also printed the design you referenced in nylon, and have it on the printer at the moment. This mount is quite firm, although I'll be changing to something else at some point - I want to be able to remove the mount without having to disassemble the X/Y chassis.

The PLA mount never softened - I only changed because the original print has some slack in the X direction. The E3D hotend is quite tall, and these mounts hold it right near the top. This exaggerates any whiplash problems when printing quickly.

I've a volcano block as well as the standard E3D block. The heatbreak locks into the heater block very firmly, but comes out of the heatsink very easily. For this reason I've got a second heatbreak, and just leave one in each heater block. I've added connectors to the wiring to allow me to disconnect the heater and sensor just a few inches above the print head. This allows for easy(ish) swapping of the hot end. I'd still like it to be easier. Changing nozzles on the volcano is painful, due to the long threaded portion.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I designed this mount for UM2 and am happy with it, printing ABS only , did not publish it as I think it can still be a bit more compact. As you see it not only holds at the top but all around.

The design is based on the .step file of the E3D fan mount, so the air flow is an exact copy of the E3D design.

I notice I can print fine in an fully enclosed printer when printing at apr. 250 celsius. When I go higher to 270 celsius the enclosed air gets to hot and the cooling fails (=fillament gets stuck). I'll try some experiments with a few holes in the enclosure top to regulate the temperature when I find the time. Ideally the cooling would be water cooling but I find it a bit to complicated for now, but maybe someday.....

The base is printed in ABS, but the low temperature type, softening at 80 c, want to print the new version in ABS with a softening temp of 103 c.  The fan mounts are colorfab XT but they already deform a bit, so will also be replaced by the 103c ABS.

Edited November 17, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

 

@Ultiarjan have you tried to put thermal paste on the heat barrel that goes inside the aluminium? I read some posts about this yesterday and I thought on the times you tried this hotend. In theory the thermal paste makes the heat in/out faster filling the gasps, like with cpu cooling stuff.