So... the question about how to power the small fan it's not so clear.
How about buying a 24v fan?
I found these options on eBay that appear to be equivalent to the one supplied by E3D:
If I use a 24v fan can I just wire it to the 19v screw terminals? These terminals are always on?
So... the question about how to power the small fan it's not so clear.
How about buying a 24v fan?
I found these options on eBay that appear to be equivalent to the one supplied by E3D:
- 3010 DC Brushless Cooling Fan
- 2 wires 24V Fans 30 x 30X 10mm
- 24V 3010S 5 Blades 30x30x10mm
If I use a 24v fan can I just wire it to the 19v screw terminals? These terminals are always on?
Alternatively, get one of these within the right specs:
Attach it to an always on 19V line and dial the output down to 12V.
then you can run all manner of 12V fans, LEDs etc. off that (as long as you keep it within its, and the
PSUs current rating)
Alternatively, get one of these within the right specs:
Attach it to an always on 19V line and dial the output down to 12V.
then you can run all manner of 12V fans, LEDs etc. off that (as long as you keep it within its, and the
PSUs current rating)
This looks promising. I knew it was possible to create/design something like that, but I've no electronics knowledge to do it myself.
I also wanted to put some led strips in my UM1, but like the cooling fan, the 24v version is harder to find.
That's right. I tried making my own fanduct but it turned out to be a very difficult task for Sketchup (and me o.O), so I just adapted Nick's fanduct mount.
I suppose this solution will work quite well. If it doesn't, I'll look for another solution.
Haven't gotten around to testing it yet (I was kept away from it the whole weekend :().
I'll finsh version 1.0 today and print it. Hopefully I can make a "run-in test" tomorrow (not to say "burn-in test"...)
Any results yet? :-P
I just got the airmail from E3D with the lovely hot end. Very light and nice looking metal piece.
Regarding the engineering: I could put in the effort to reconstruct the piece in CATIA.
I don't know how to hook up the electronics 
Which piece do you mean exactly?
V0.3 didn't fit as well as it should have - need to investigate further.
I sent you a PM about printing one for you.
Hooking up the electronics is easy enough, but it depends on what setup you have (19V UM standard PSU, custom 24V PSU, custom 12V PSU, or maybe a mix....).
I was able to complete and print Nick's design for the E3D v6 last night. I think it will work with the E3D block, heater and thermistor and Nick's fan duct.
I added a bunch of support to assist in printing the body. Not sure I'm happy with it. Clean up was difficult.
If you wait 1-2 more days, you can try my v6 design. I'm having a little issue atm which I'll investigate after work. But other than that, I never had any big problems printing it, and I use only minimal support (included in the models).
Cleanup still takes some time.. There are lots of faces that need to be clean and flat in order for everything to fit.
NO NO NO!!!! Mine is first!!!!! Print mine even though I haven't shared it!
I WIN! :-)
No way
Found and hopefully fixed my latest problem: I went a little too tight on the tolerances, so when I put the hotend into the mount, it stretched and therefore the bracket wouldn't fit correctly anymore. I've increased the "bad" diameter and am now printing v0.4.
I'm wondering what would be the best "height" of the fanduct:
Too low, and it will bump into the print, too high, and it will melt and / or not work as intended.
At the moment I have the fanduct only 1.5 - 2mm above the nozzle. Thats a very small gap, but could it be enough to keep it safely above the print?
By the way: I messed up the v5 design on youmagine. I removed the original files and replaced them, but the images are not updated and now I only have blank spaces there... Will delete and reupp when I get to it.
Regarding the height of the fan duct, I would check and mirror Nick's design since I assume that has been proven out.
I've tried that, but didn't find any way to measure it in Nick's design, as he didn't draw a dummy hotend.
You have V5's assembled right? Can you tell me the distance from that lowest fin to the tip?
Make sure you check my maths and my sources and assumptions!!!!
So based on this:
http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3D_Heat_Sink.jpg
The distance from the "shoulder" is the total heatsink length (50.1mm) less the the thickness of the top "shoulder" (3.7mm). So 46.4.
The distance from where that shoulder sits in the V5 mount to a plane that is just lower than the lowest part of the fan duct (which happens to be the screw "nubs") is 63.53 but let's call it 63.5mm.
The distance from the lowest fin or bottom of the heatsink to the lowest part of the fan duct is 63.5-46.4 or 17.1
If you can determine the distance from the bottom of the heatsiink to the nozzle tip, I think subtracting 17.1 should give you the clearance of the duct to the print surface.
I will most most likely sit down next week and design a mount as well. All references are already in place
Update:
I've been able to resolve my fitting issues. The culprit was a diameter that was a little bit too tight. My latest print fits the hotend just perfectly snug. It's solid, small and lightweight. Also, it prints with minimal support structures (included in the model).
I think I got the right fanduct height, but still need some time to test that. However, as the fanduct mount is a separate part, I will publish my current version today.
Worst case is, people might have to re-print the fanduct-holder, which is only a 1.5 hours print. The main parts of the mount should be good as they are.
I don't think it's necessary to design a whole other mount. It doesn't make sense to make 5 versions of the same part - better improve an existing design if necessary. The Fanduct (especially the mount) may need some improvement. I think the current solution has the following flaws:
- The fanduct mount is wobbly and somewhat insecure (only 1 screw). It's not "bad" though, should be stable enough. But it can be improved.
- The fanduct itself gets very close to the heater block. I don't know if it will work, need to do further testing. The thing is, Nick's fanduct has excellent airflow direction, so it will be difficult to improve that any further.
Need to get back to work now, will publish the design at lunchtime
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original
Here you go.
I will be completing the design with instructions, pictures and additional parts during the week.
Note that if you decide to already print the mount, you will have to look out for the small built-in supports that I placed on the edges of the two main tunnels that hold the bearings (prints much better with them!), and another "bridging helper" (same as with the tunnels) at the hole where you route the fan wiring through the main body and to the center of the mount. I'll write up the PDF documentation asap
Vice nice work Jonny.
Todo: add to your todo list: List of screw sizes/hardware required.
If anyone prints it, note that it appears that there is support that needs to be removed on the fan mount.
I'm working hard on the documentation! Everything will be in there.
Testing the mount right now! The first 15 minutes of 260°C nozzle temperature didn't affect the fanduct at all. But I need to run the test for at least an hour before I can make any statement...
I'll also run the test again with the (big) cooling fan off. Now that the fan runs at 100%, it should be able to keep the ABS fanduct cool enough to keep it from melting. But as I said, the test still has some time to go until it's complete.
By the way, I've already found some small issues with the current models while assembling it. Will fix these tomorrow, or maybe even tonight.
btw: Yeah, I didn't tidy up the table. Shame on me...
/edit:
Test #1 completed: 1 hour at 260°C, no problems at all. ABS didn't get softened up at all. Heatsink stayed very cool, maybe 5K above room temperature.
Darn it!!!!!! Made two attempts to print the body and they both came unstuck 5mm from the end of the print!!!!!!
yeah nice! I'm excited to see you woking on this 
Your design looks nice and sleek. Even more exciting is to see your electronic setup, since I have no clue about that 
.
You used the whole E3D set: heater block, thermistor and the 24V cartridge? You expected maybe to less power with the 24V cable, right? Is this the case?
Where did you connected the thermistor to? Did you just solder the two wires from the theristor to the 2 left MB connectors (1 pin is useless in this case?)? Did you modify the firmware for that?
Any idea where you will connect the "allways on" fan to? (can i use a 12V 700mA external DC Adapter or will this distroy the 0,08A fan?)
Sorry for beeing impatient but my printer is aleady offline since a month ;-)
Great work on the mount. Do you know if there would be any issues setting this up on an UM2?
Darn it!!!!!! Made two attempts to print the body and they both came unstuck 5mm from the end of the print!!!!!!
Did it happen just with this model, or do you have the problem with other prints, too?
There shouldn't be a problem with my model, it has a relatively large bottom (and who doesn't like that? o.O).
I'll add an electronics How-to to my documentation. I am using all the E3D stuff (24V cartridge at 19V for now, later I'll use a 24V Power supply).
This setup now only has about 25W instead of 40, but it still works perfectly fine.
You can connect the small fan to a 700mA DC adaptor, that's no problem. The fan will draw only 80 mA from the adaptor. 700 mA is the maximum for this adaptor, so you could connect several of these fans if you wanted to.
Thermistor is connected the same way as a heated bed thermistor (left and right pin of the 3-pin connector, center stays unconnected). You also need to solder in a 4.7k Ohms resistor (R23) and change the firmware so that it expects a thermistor instead of a thermocouple.
I can understand you impatience, I've been waiting a long time for this to work myself.
Now I have to wait 4 weeks for a bunch of Trespa plates to arrive (for my new UM frame) until I can actually mount this hotend into a printer :(
Mechanically, it should fit just fine. I've measured the spacing of the x-y gantry shafts (the 6mm ones) to be 18mm, just like on the UM1. They also use the same linear bearings.
What I don't know is whether it's possible to modify the UM2 firmware like on an UM1.
It certainly IS possible, but the question is how simple it will be. There are very easy ways to do it for an UM1 (marlin builder), but the UM2 is not supported there afaik.
Any luck with PLA or will this work ONLY with ABS?
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That's right. I tried making my own fanduct but it turned out to be a very difficult task for Sketchup (and me o.O), so I just adapted Nick's fanduct mount.
I suppose this solution will work quite well. If it doesn't, I'll look for another solution.
Haven't gotten around to testing it yet (I was kept away from it the whole weekend :().
I'll finsh version 1.0 today and print it. Hopefully I can make a "run-in test" tomorrow (not to say "burn-in test"...)
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