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In general though, by the time you are ready to make soap, it has all the animal or plant fats, glycerine and other stuffs that make it 'soap' as we know it added and it is reduced in caustic properties. If not, it would severely burn skin. Also, plastic soap holders would not be able to hold it after solidifying.
I think heat would be the issue as you have to cook it and pour it while still somewhat hot.
I assume you want to make cold process soap? If so then the type of plastic I would recommend for all steps of your soap making process, even the mould, is high-density polyethylene (aka HDPE) or polypropylene (aka PP).
This is not to be confused with polyethylene terephthalate (aka PET or PETE) type plastic (which is probably the most common household plastic like water bottles)
I do seem to remember seeing a new material come out for 3d printing as HDPE but I can't seem to find it atm, if I run across it again I will repost here for you!
The soap will not be very hot temperature wise when you pour it but as you probably know the caustic levels will not be skin safe for around 48-72 hours. So you also need to be very careful with what type of plastic you use so it can't eat into it or let it 'leak' bits into your soap.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
A year after the merger of Ultimaker and MakerBotQQ, we have unlocked the ability for users of our Method series printers to slice files using UltiMaker Cura. As of this release, users can find profiles for our Method and Method XL printers, as well as material profiles for ABS-R, ABS-CF, and RapidRinse. Meaning it’s now possible to use either Cura or the existing cloud-slicing software CloudPrint when printing with these printers or materials
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kmanstudios 1,120
Here are two Links to guides:
Link 1
Link 2
In general though, by the time you are ready to make soap, it has all the animal or plant fats, glycerine and other stuffs that make it 'soap' as we know it added and it is reduced in caustic properties. If not, it would severely burn skin. Also, plastic soap holders would not be able to hold it after solidifying.
I think heat would be the issue as you have to cook it and pour it while still somewhat hot.
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AndreaMaker 1
I assume you want to make cold process soap? If so then the type of plastic I would recommend for all steps of your soap making process, even the mould, is high-density polyethylene (aka HDPE) or polypropylene (aka PP).
This is not to be confused with polyethylene terephthalate (aka PET or PETE) type plastic (which is probably the most common household plastic like water bottles)
I do seem to remember seeing a new material come out for 3d printing as HDPE but I can't seem to find it atm, if I run across it again I will repost here for you!
The soap will not be very hot temperature wise when you pour it but as you probably know the caustic levels will not be skin safe for around 48-72 hours. So you also need to be very careful with what type of plastic you use so it can't eat into it or let it 'leak' bits into your soap.
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kmanstudios 1,120
Ultimaker has PP filament now.
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