Does the DIY kit come with a heated bed?

[ascanio 0]

In the kit mentioned ( ----> https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-kits/ultimaker-kit-new.html)

I am new to 3d printing. I know i need one, but is it in the kit? Or is it an option? or do i need any specific heated or anyone on the market works?

Thanks

 

[IRobertI 520]

No, there is no official heated bed yet. You'd have to source parts for it and build it yourself.

Are you sure you NEED it though? Lots and lots of us out there print without one.

 

[thingster 0]

The Ultimaker is meant to print with bio-plastic "PLA". You don't need a heat-bed for that.

 

[ascanio 0]

I need to print with abs, and the ultimaker should do the job right?

Abs needs a heated bed so I was looking for one. Is the PCB heatbed mk1 compatible(http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403)??

Because i would like to purchase a heated bed reather than building my own (though it is propably more expensive). Or do you suggest any other model?

PS what is the spare v2 hot end? I Know I should propably open another topic... but forgive me.

 

[owen 19]

Hi Ascanio

You need to build a HBP yourself. Best way is to look through the forum here and here https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/ultimaker there is much written and many different ways of doing it. There is a variety of heating boards you can use as well. Ultimaker is in the process of designing one but there is no ETA yet.

 

[sonarok 0]

just posted a pic based tutorial on my fb gallery : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.126353090893272.1073741831.100005557446240&type=1&uploaded=18 because someone in the german forum was also looking for more details... maybe this helps to get you started, there is also a link in one of the commets to a more text based tutorial

 

[phanc60844 0]

You do need a heated bed even with PLA. Try printing a large , flat object without it and you will quicky see what I mean. I've lost count on how many objects have been knocked off the table due to curling and then contact with the nozzle or fan.

Paul

 

[phanc60844 0]

Try Ebay, I bought a complete kit of bed, thermocouple, controller and power suppy which was very reasonable. I think its better to go for a seperate system rather than integrate it as you dont have to mess with the Ultimakers main board. Even if you solder the resistor correctly, if you have problems you can fry components on the main board. A new Ultimaker PCB costs more than the heated bed kit so for me its not worth messing around with anything else.

Paul

 

[redhatmatt 1]

If anyone has a link to an item on ebay or other that has "a complete kit of bed, thermocouple, controller and power supply" that is known to work with the Ultimaker original I would love to use it to buy the whole thing. I know others would as well. Please post one someone.

 

[3dcase 37]

If anyone has a link to an item on ebay or other that has "a complete kit of bed, thermocouple, controller and power supply" that is known to work with the Ultimaker original I would love to use it to buy the whole thing. I know others would as well. Please post one someone.

 

+1

 

[hreedijk 4]

I've build my heated bed from scratch with self sourced parts but after a quick google some links:

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46&_uhb=1

(Dutch Site)

http://darkmatters.nl/product/heatbed-upgrade-voor-ultimaker-en-clones/

Connection schema:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1996-need-firmware-hex-file-with-heated-bed/&do=findComment&comment=14076

 

[3dcase 37]

I've build my heated bed from scratch with self sourced parts but after a quick google some links:

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46&_uhb=1

(Dutch Site)

http://darkmatters.nl/product/heatbed-upgrade-voor-ultimaker-en-clones/

Connection schema:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1996-need-firmware-hex-file-with-heated-bed/&do=findComment&comment=14076

Interesting Harold!!!

How could I have missed it....

I remember seeing some of the pictures on their site before :-P .

An uitimaker-maker starting a spinnoff company?

 

[hreedijk 4]

Looks like it but got no experience with them .....

After looking at there site:

"Wij zijn geen bedrijf achter gesloten deuren, maar een open werkplaats in hartje Tilburg"......

 

[3dcase 37]

Looks like it but got no experience with them .....

After looking at there site:

"Wij zijn geen bedrijf achter gesloten deuren, maar een open werkplaats in hartje Tilburg"......

http://fablab013.nl/

weblayout looked familiar

 

[hreedijk 4]

Yep, just around the corner for you :-)

 

[drayson 75]

Guys, with your exeperiance with the heater plate - is there a seriouse reason to take care if it is a copper plated or an etched PCB?

I found a note at the Prusa-HB-Wiki that this has to be considered, as the plated one has issues with the thickness of the cooper but I never found a etched version @ ebay...

 

[hreedijk 4]

I only have experience with the MK2A HB and that's working like a charm!

 

[drayson 75]

Good to know.

I´m currently thinking of sourcing a 242x242x6mm aluminum plate as direct build plate replacement and a silicon heater pad, combined with a glass print surface...

But as always, so many ideas and projects, so less time...

 

[hreedijk 4]

I've done it this way on my own build UM (still work in progress):

 

From top to bottom:

> 4mm Heat resistant glass plate (print surface)

> 4mm Aluminium plate (to spread the heat equally to the glass)

> MK2A (taped it with kapton on the alu plate)

> Heat insulation foil

> Bed level springs

> Aluminium plate which is connected to the bearings of the 12MM rods.

 

 

On my UM original I have the following:

 

From top to bottom:

> Ikea mirror (print surface)

> MK2A (screwed into a wooden plate)

> Heat insulation foil

> The wooden plate

> Bed level springs

> Original UM Z arms