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Hi Folks

I have a UMO+ since half a year. Excellent printer.

Now i wanted zu upgrade to Ollson-Block and Dual-Extruder.

I bought 2 UM2+ Extruders (the white one's), a UM2 Printhead, 2 Solex 35W Heaters.

I upgraded the FW with https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/.

I'm able to print with both head - one at a time.

BUT:

- on dual-extrution prints, my light flickers and after some time the printer shuts off.

- the heaters with 35W are to strong for normal FW, the temperature overshoots about 25 degree on heating up.

I think the problem is solvable with some FW tweak. But i have no clue how to get a FW written like the one from https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ and then add some little modifications. (mods are already here).

I tryed to compile the offical FW but got errors on compiling...

Can anyone tell me how to get this solved?

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20170731_125417.thumb.jpg.e149497526847eb98ab3dbef98352d7f.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Well maybe this version has the settings you need?

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/'>http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

What error message did you get? Maybe you should post that. Here are old instructions from a few years ago. The problem is the source code on github has probably advanced a great deal. Hopefully you know where to get the actual source code and not some much-newer version:

BUILDING ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL MARLIN

thermistor tables:

https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h'>https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h

First get the source code.

UMO files here:

https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin

Then edit Configuration.h this is by far the hardest step and it's not bad. I recommend you go here:

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

or

https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/

and use that website only to get the Configuration.h file. Then run winmerge or some other diff program to compare the latest ErikZalm version of Configuration.h to the one from robotfuzz which is usually a few months behind. Edit the ErikZalm version to match the robotfuzz generated version. Make any other edits as necessary. It sound complicated but it is extremely clear and well commented. Sometimes with paragraphs of explanation.

configuration.h file detailed explanation:

http://airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/

Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file.

Basically you download and install arduino ide:

http://arduino.cc/en/main/software

Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu.

The actual ultimaker firmware is built with make file and doing it that way generates a smaller more compact firmware but doing it through the IDE works fine. I've done it many times.

Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer):

http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/

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in fact, https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ would be fine, if i had ordered 25Watt heaters. the problem is, this website only gives a hex-file. If there would be a possibility to get the arduino files before compiling, i would change 3 or 4 rows in config.h and be glad :-D

the problem in arduino was with the original UMO+ files from Ultimaker. i downloaded them and wanted to compile in arduino-ui. but there came failure with some code segments.

exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

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On @amedee firmware builder you have a link to the whole Marlin build he made. You can complile his version from that.

Two 35W are more of what the psu can manage, but @tinkergnome managed to use them for the mark2, so maybe he has some tips about how they do the heat sequence in order to make it work. Or you can just go to his firmware for mark2 and check it to see his recipe.

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On amedee firmware builder you have a link to the whole Marlin build he made. You can compile his version from that.

You mentioned this in your first post too. Where do I get this? I must be blind. :-(

Is it possible to take a greater PSU or will then break/short/burn the Mainboard?

Thanks for the tinkergnome hint - i'll contact him.

Edited by Guest

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On amedee firmware builder you have a link to the whole Marlin build he made. You can compile his version from that.

You mentioned this in your first post too. Where do I get this? I must be blind. :-(

Is it possible to take a greater PSU or will then break/short/burn the Mainboard?

Thanks for the tinkergnome hint - i'll contact him.

On one of my printers I have a 280W meanwell gst-280 to use it on my umo+. It's been working perfectly for 2 years+ now. Ofc it would requiere some connector solder/cut/plug to connect it to the um 2.1.X board.

5a333d8686c11_Capturadepantalla2017-08-01alas9_20_36.thumb.png.690d43020b5ca4c3a752df8797507446.png

https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UMO_Unified

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Looks it is on the rails...

Sorry for not answering faster, I am out of town these days.

Having said that and referring to the github issue you filed, I am very surprised you cannot get your temperature under control with the PID auto-tune.

The 3DSolex cartridges do not require any firmware tweaks to work properly.

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Looks it is on the rails...

Sorry for not answering faster, I am out of town these days.

Having said that and referring to the github issue you filed, I am very surprised you cannot get your temperature under control with the PID auto-tune.

The 3DSolex cartridges do not require any firmware tweaks to work properly.

Hi Amedee

Yes, printer is running by now. But it's a long way to go. much to correct and modify.

The Solex cartridges with 35W are working great, never heated up this fast. BUT there is the Problem - the PID in std FW starts at least 10 degrees before set-temperature. but this is to late. the temperature overshoots by around 27 degrees. then it has to cool down an after some itterations the print starts. same on temperature-changes within the print.

These overshoots are the problem for the PID-Autotune. there is a border of 20 degrees deviation before the routine stops itselve.

My solution for the moment is to decrease the PID_MAX to 128, then it works fine. And my Powersupply wont break down on 2 heaters and heated bed. Now i could even start a pid-autotune.

My solution is like this:

- I took the FW from your Builder (Branch).

- added the hotend-auto-fan for both extruders

- i inverted the extruders because of UM2+ exturders

- i inverted the x and z

- changed the anoying beeper ;-)

- changed teh PID MAX for the hotends to 128

- changed display timeout to 1 minute

- forced diaplaying the fan-percentage

so I'm close to the build from your builder. only thing left is the fan-kickstart 200ms and 20% min-fan-pwm.

I thank all of you so much!!! It's great to know where to go next :-D

first_dual.thumb.png.c68e59b8c7ebe6e0b9ce568d4a579265.png

Next stop: find the right settings in Cura. There is much work waiting, to get the failures out of the above print.

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