FWIW, I made a V2 brass tube replacement out of SS and used it with a V2 brass nozzle (the V2 nozzle threads into the aluminum heater block and meets the SS tube inside the aluminum block) and it didn't really work at all with ABS (never tried it with PLA). I fear you will not have a long enough SS section. The all SS hot end designs that I've seen are pretty long (Prusa).
Interesting. Why didn't it work? What happened? Did the molten ABS stick to the SS somehow? Please tell me more!
I have seen that the all metal hot ends usually are very long, and they of course have to be to dissipate all the heat, but since the original UM hot end kinda works with just the insulating plastic and no heat sink, my idea with this design is that by adding a small heat sink, but keeping the plastic insulation it should make a radically sharper thermal gradient, and be kinder to the plastic and wooden parts at the same time. This is a good observation though!
Also copper is difficult to machine whereas brass machines easily. I would think brass is good enough!
Ahh, this may well be true! I have never tried lathing copper, and may well fail
Brass obviously works, but I do think that copper would heat up and cool down more uniformly, and thus make the electronics respond quicker. You might well be right though, the difference may well be very slight
Joergen and I both print a lot of ABS and we are using longer 36 mm MakerGear "barrels" (brass tubes) and BigHead nozzles. We both use an aluminum heatsink under the PEEK (though of different design). We have the full MG set of nozzles but I think we both like the 0.50 for general use.
I would love to see pictures on how that fits together!
I have so far only used the original 0.4 mm Ultimaker nozzle, but trying other diameters is something I have been longing to do. Does changing the nozzle size change what layer height you can use?
I have a long SS tube design in mind that will run the enitre lenght of the wooden print head box (yes, it's tough to fit it in) but my current setup works so well that I'm not motivated to try anything else, ATM. I commonly print Ultimachine black at 275 C and I have no discoloration of my PEEK whatsoever, as I did before the change.
That's a brilliant idea! Though I think you would still want a heat sink at the bottom to create a sharp temperature gradient for the filament... That configuration would save some bowden as well
I can't really tell you what works best for PLA. I always thought the stock UM setup worked quite well for PLA, but admit that I have limited experience with PLA.
-Cal
Well your input is most welcome in any event I'm afraid that the stock UM setup haven't worked to well for me, though I haven't tried the V2.
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calinb 11
FWIW, I made a V2 brass tube replacement out of SS and used it with a V2 brass nozzle (the V2 nozzle threads into the aluminum heater block and meets the SS tube inside the aluminum block) and it didn't really work at all with ABS (never tried it with PLA). I fear you will not have a long enough SS section. The all SS hot end designs that I've seen are pretty long (Prusa).
Also copper is difficult to machine whereas brass machines easily. I would think brass is good enough!
Joergen and I both print a lot of ABS and we are using longer 36 mm MakerGear "barrels" (brass tubes) and BigHead nozzles. We both use an aluminum heatsink under the PEEK (though of different design). We have the full MG set of nozzles but I think we both like the 0.50 for general use.
I have a long SS tube design in mind that will run the enitre lenght of the wooden print head box (yes, it's tough to fit it in) but my current setup works so well that I'm not motivated to try anything else, ATM. I commonly print Ultimachine black at 275 C and I have no discoloration of my PEEK whatsoever, as I did before the change.
I can't really tell you what works best for PLA. I always thought the stock UM setup worked quite well for PLA, but admit that I have limited experience with PLA.
-Cal
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