Replacing heater with 35w heater

[neotko 1,417]

Ok thanks for the good info, But still no one said if i can over tighten the nozzle screw that keeps the heater and heatsensor in place?

If i overtighten it will it damage anything?

...I assume I run the pid35.gcode as if i was printing an object from the print menu, or do i go somewhere else? Thanks again. Thats all my questions!!!

 

Indeed you launch it like a print, you will now it works because you will see that X goes do a Home check. After that the info will be stored on the machine memory and you won't need to run/print it anymore.

About overtighten the screw, well, if you force it, ofc you can damage stuff, after all it's holding a heater and a sensor, no screw should be overtighten. It's like everything, it can damage the screw or the sensor, and it won't make it have better heat control.

IF you really want to make the heat more precise, buy a E3D sock, cut it with an exacto so it fits nicely and the heat will stay inside the block with much more precision.

This is an E3D Sock for E3D hotends

And like you can see on this image, it can be used on Olsson (OFC you might need to cut some silicon of the sock so it stays fit. The important part it's that it surrounds the block, so the heat stays better inside the block and there's less heat loss.

Sample of E3D sock use

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22393-um2-socks-well-it-turned-out-to-look-more-like-spandex?page=2#reply-164439

[cloakfiend 995]

You are a great help neo, I wont be using the OB, I've gone back to the original UM2 nozzle as it gives a little more detail in my opinion and holds too much heat giving those weird warped sides due to me printing on the limits of my materials, but I dont have these issues with the UM2 nozzle. Its confusing for me because I've used 3 different setups and all for seperate things, but overall i think for fun, and for only printing in PLA and with only the 0.4 nozzle, it makes no sense for me to install the OB again. It works fine, but I prefer the UM2 nozzle. its smaller and all one piece. and also just works.

Thanks again! let me know if you want me to print a scan of your face out or just make it and you can print it!, just send me some sharp photos of your face from different angles that someone can take when you are either sitting VERY still or leaning your head against a pillow or against a corner down and send them to me and I will make you one!

[stu_le_brew 42]

Yes you just select the file (as if you were going to print it) and the printer executes the GCode commands.

Can you do damage if you tighten the screw to much - well yes you could damage the sensor and or the heater - it just needs to be tight enough to securely hold in place the heater and sensor. If its to tight you may not be able to remove them in the future.

[cloakfiend 995]

Not removingthem in the future wont be a problem, ive gotten quite used to taking my um2 apart now and its not as scary as before. I just hate feeding stuff through the mesh most. Very annoying unless you disconnect everything. I have another spare um2 head and another temp sensor so may just get another heater and sit on it for a rainy day.

[cloakfiend 995]

I think we're back in business!!! whoop whoop!!!

[cloakfiend 995]

I think I may have a new problem now :( .....but before I say anything I need to investigate what I think may be the culprit.... probably my fault this time printing off the roll! lol.

Still I would like to get some new bearings as I have a bit of play on one axis since an accident a while go that I don't like. Nothing major but I'll see after a few more prints. Could be me being overly paranoid.