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NX2 is different than GreenTec

In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)

- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.

- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.

- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.

- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)

- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.

- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.

So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.

Edited by Guest
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NX2 is different than GreenTec

In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)

- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.

- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.

- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.

- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)

- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.

- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.

So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.

Thanks for the detailed review, so it's worth a try!

Have you also ever tried their MF PLA?

Edited by Guest

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Nope, just greentec, bdp and nx2. Btw their bdp wood filament is just as bad as any colorfabb wood. But interesting since is biodegradable ofc.

May I ask what you mean by "Just as bad?" I thought the woodfill filaments were ok. I have not tried them and have not really been interested, but I found out my daughter in law is a Groot fanatic and thought it would be cool to do a wood Groot for her.

Any information would be appreciated. :)

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@kmanstudios

I've had good luck with Gizmo Dorks wood filament. It's a little bit brittle, but works fine with careful handling. You are supposed to be able to get different wood colors depending on how hot you run it, but I've found that I need to run it at 230°C to get good adhesion between layers.

After printing I apply Old English Scratch Cover, let it soak in and wipe off the excess to darken it and that makes it look more like wood.32563507262_82c4b456b5_h.thumb.jpg.0d9a1f283edb5a2dd76a093b7aa692c8.jpg

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Nope, just greentec, bdp and nx2. Btw their bdp wood filament is just as bad as any colorfabb wood. But interesting since is biodegradable ofc.

May I ask what you mean by "Just as bad?" I thought the woodfill filaments were ok. I have not tried them and have not really been interested, but I found out my daughter in law is a Groot fanatic and thought it would be cool to do a wood Groot for her.

Any information would be appreciated. :)

There is one thing you have to keep in mind with colorFabb Woodfill: You cannot print it with a 0.4mm nozzle as the wood particles are too large for that diameter and will clog the nozzle.

I print Woodfill with a 0.8mm nozzle and get a really nice rough wood-like surface. If you want a bit a smoother finish I can recommend Fiberwood from Fiberforce which prints with a 0.4mm nozzle pretty nice.

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Yea and fiberforce or eumaker wood, that’s the ones I love now.

So I mean just as bad, because I mean that woodfill drips a lot, needs a bigger nozzle to ensure long prints and the final print is quite weak compared to a pla.

And as ‘just as bad’ I mean. Woodfills / polywood only give looks, but technically they are uneasy and weak filaments and the feeling of the print is more cardboard than wood.

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I will have to look at the brands you guys suggested. Thanks for all the info.

I did forget to mention that she is expecting this late December, so actually a Groot and Baby Groot would be appropriate :p

I did just get a series of nozzles for printing abrasives and also a variety of sizes so, I thank you for the suggestions :)

Just getting through this freelance job (Thursday deadline) and my printer should be done about that time on my current print, so.....what to print...what to print.......

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NX2 is different than GreenTec

In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)

- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.

- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.

- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.

- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)

- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.

- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.

So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.

Neotko, my only concern is about your "white-ish" comment, does it start to fade out after pouring isopropyl alcohol on the printed part or just during the extrusion?

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NX2 is different than GreenTec

In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)

- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.

- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.

- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.

- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)

- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.

- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.

So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.

Neotko, my only concern is about your "white-ish" comment, does it start to fade out after pouring isopropyl alcohol on the printed part or just during the extrusion?

True I wrote that fast and without explaining it. It goes white when sanded or on the areas where it sticks to the bed. I remove them with my nails (yea weird but 100% works) and to recover the color on printed areas that eed sanding I use a lighter fast and without exposing it too much.

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On 10/22/2017 at 10:49 AM, neotko said:

NX2 is different than GreenTec

In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)

- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.

- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.

- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.

- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)

- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.

- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.

So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.

 

Nice review! 

I will import a bunch of filaments and I'm looking for a stronger PLA - I have a doubt beetwin Polimaker/Polimax; Ultimaker Tough PLA and now this NX2 from Extrudr- I will keep searching, thanks!

 

I also will bring my favorite material, I actually in doubt beetwin GreenTec from Extrudr or PLATec from Biofila (tested and approved), they looks like the same material and are on top of my wishlist. They reachs 110-120 degrees after printed and offer a great finish for the pieces (no visible layers, ideal for decorative objects and functional parts that do not require mechanical resistance) in addition to its excellent thermal resistance. It doesn't need to sand at all, when needed, the natural color doesn't leave white-ish marks.

 

Just for a comparison I messure along one meter of my Biofila PLATec diameter, natural color, with my precise calipter and here my results. I messure just in one direction, forgot to get a 90° messure to check roundness variations:

2.89mm - 2.89mm - 2.89mm - 2.89mm - 2.88mm - 2.90mm (20cm beetwin each one). 

+- 0.02mm variation

 

I hope it helps someone 🙂

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