Ultimaker Original Heated Bed Upgrade

[3design 0]

I am still working with an Ultimaker Original using blue masking tape, e. g. without heated surface.

Now I'd like to upgrade it with a heated bed.

As I do not have neither the tools nor the knowledge to construct in myself: Where would you advice me to buy a heated bed fitting to an Ultimaker Original, and what key issues I would have to takt into account when installing it?

As being less experienced in hardware mods, it would be nice as well if you could advise me of any helpful tutorials.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

There was an official ultimaker upgrade kit, not sure if it's still available... ask your reseller.

Here's the manual of the kit;

https://ultimaker.com/download/251/Assembly%20Manual%20-%20Heated%20Bed%20upgrade%20kit%20v1.3.pdf

[amedee 349]

This is a recurring question recently...

Unfortunately this kit is discontinued and AFAIK all resellers are out of stock, I was quite lucky to get one of the last ones last year...

It is a pity, because if you are not prepared to hack to install a third party solution, your best option is probably to buy a new printer (or keep using blue tape, if you only do PLA you don’t need an heated bed after all...)

[neotko 1,417]

I could be interested to know from a reseller if UM sells the um2 bed as a kit. Afaik they sell if complete with bearings and z motor. Probably not cheap indeed. Also useless without the heater board with pt100 sensor for umo not plus.

Clearly third party or mailing every reseller to see if someone has one in stock or at least the extra board. The other components are easy to find like the powersupply etc.

[amedee 349]

Also useless without the heater board with pt100 sensor for umo not plus.

Not sure...

Having the complete bed (with motor & lead screw), you could power the UMO in 24V (and changing the 12V linear step down), hooking the bed directly on the board and using an E3D amp for the pt100...

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

I could be interested to know from a reseller if UM sells the um2 bed as a kit. Afaik they sell if complete with bearings and z motor. Probably not cheap indeed. Also useless without the heater board with pt100 sensor for umo not plus.

Clearly third party or mailing every reseller to see if someone has one in stock or at least the extra board. The other components are easy to find like the powersupply etc.

There are a few other things that were only included in the HBK such as certain cables. Of course a maker could make them himself but then he could also make the pcb himself.

edit: the pt100 can be connected to the Ultiboard 1.5.x by using a 4.7kohms resistor...

edit2: if you use the bed in bang-bang mode (non-pid) you can use a simple car relay and an additional 24V PSU.

Edited October 23, 2017 by Guest

[amedee 349]

edit: the pt100 can be connected to the Ultiboard 1.5.x by using a 4.7kohms resistor...

No you cannot.

You could if it was a thermistor, but for an RTD you really need an amplifier (E3D or other)

edit2: if you use the bed in bang-bang mode (non-pid) you can use a simple car relay and an additional 24V PSU.

Yes, that's what the cheap Asian upgrade kits are suggesting to do.

Still, if you have a decent 24V power supply, why not powering the printer as well in 24V and connecting the bed directly on the board? (I think the STB55NF06L MOSFET should be able to drive the bed...)

Edited October 23, 2017 by Guest

[tommyph1208 55]

Seriously.... I had just written a lengthy response to this post, left my computer for a while, came back, finished and pressed "Post Reply"...

Site goes to login screen and my post is gone.... Nice work UM

Edited October 26, 2017 by Guest

[tommyph1208 55]

edit: the pt100 can be connected to the Ultiboard 1.5.x by using a 4.7kohms resistor...

No you cannot.

You could if it was a thermistor, but for an RTD you really need an amplifier (E3D or other)

edit2: if you use the bed in bang-bang mode (non-pid) you can use a simple car relay and an additional 24V PSU.

Yes, that's what the cheap Asian upgrade kits are suggesting to do.

Still, if you have a decent 24V power supply, why not powering the printer as well in 24V and connecting the bed directly on the board? (I think the STB55NF06L MOSFET should be able to drive the bed...)

I belive the board has several components that aren't rated for more than 18V max... 12V converter being one....

I myself in the end opted to switch my board with a RUMBA which works great, has more options than the UM board and runs anything from 12 to 24V

[amedee 349]

I belive the board has several components that aren't rated for more than 18V max... 12V converter being one....

That's actually the only part.

I am running my UMO at 24v since ages...

[tommyph1208 55]

I belive the board has several components that aren't rated for more than 18V max... 12V converter being one....

That's actually the only part.

I am running my UMO at 24v since ages...

Cool, I didn’t know that... Do you run a 24V heatbed through the MOSFET as well?

[amedee 349]

Cool, I didn’t know that... Do you run a 24V heatbed through the MOSFET as well?

No, I got one of the last "official" heated bed kit, so I use the UM add-on electronic plate, but I bypass the 24-19V step down to feed the board directly in 24V (I posted some pictures here...).

Otherwise I would definitely try it -- the STB55NF06L are OK in term of current, but I am not sure in term of thermal dissipation. However they are popular and were used on other boards with success

[3design 0]

(or keep using blue tape, if you only do PLA you don’t need an heated bed after all...)

Actually, I printed as well with ABS (with blocked the nozzle), PP (with went fairly well) and TPU (which went well after using hot glue to fix the object on the blue tape).

[bob 0]

Here is an old tutorial which I saved for when I finally do the upgrade myself: http://flashgamer.com/hardware/comments/adding-a-heated-build-platform-to-your-ultimaker