TOPIC FOR PRINTING HT FILAMENTS ( PEEK/ULTEM 1010/ULTEM 9085/PPSU/PSU) ON UM2+

[rajilpahuja 38]

THE PSU BENCHY PRINTED ON UM2+ A TG OF 186C AND CRACK RESISTANT

[ImogenB 3]

I have really enjoyed reading this post, thankyou for sharing your experience!

[rajilpahuja 38]

I have really enjoyed reading this post, thankyou for sharing your experience!

Thanks @ImogenB, i just hope more people join in

[Ziogianni84 3]

Hi guys, I have come across this topic since I'm interested in printing designs by using ULTEM 9085. I own a UM3, what do I need?

For sure I have to replace the nozzle because as far as I know the genuine one cannot withstand the Ultem's extrusion temperature. Moreover searching online I have only found 1.75mm spools, are 2.85mm spools available as well?

Thanks

[gr5 2,167]

Both sizes are available I think but you may have to look around. Lots of googling.

UM3 nozzle can go to 350C. You probably want 360C. More importantly the heated bed won't go above around 110C I think and you probably need 150C. Plus you need to enclose the printer.

The cores can go above 350C in theory (they should be fine up to 400C) but the head itself is not rated for that. The solder on the circuit board in there probably melts at 200C. I don't know what is in there that restricts the max temp but I would be a bit surprised if it coudn't take 400C. But if UM says the head can't go above 350C then that makes me nervous.

You want your air temp up around 60C if possible. Any of these things (printing at 360C, air temp at 60C) might violate your warranties. You might want to just get a UM2 or UMO+. The UMO is great in that it's very easy to move the motors outside the printer - no hardware needed, no drilling - they just mount either way.

I don't think there is any simple solution. Any solution will require firmware changes and purchase of a heater and an enclosure and probably heat sinks and fans for the steppers.

[rajilpahuja 38]

Hi guys, I have come across this topic since I'm interested in printing designs by using ULTEM 9085. I own a UM3, what do I need?

For sure I have to replace the nozzle because as far as I know the genuine one cannot withstand the Ultem's extrusion temperature. Moreover searching online I have only found 1.75mm spools, are 2.85mm spools available as well?

Thanks

 

Hi there,

I guess for your nozzle needs you need to ask Mr Carl from 3dsolex, he will guide you on what you need to use, about the filaments in 2.85mm please check out 3d4makers they have ultem1000/peek/ppsu, for 2.85mm in 9085 u might need to contact Mr Matt Howard from 3dxtech, however i cannot say for sure whether he will make or even if he makes that a bowden setup will work on these materials

cause these filaments behave way differently then non HT ones, about the um3, i think you should listen to gr5, he has much knowledge of ultimaker products and is the most active member of the community, to what i hear um3 isnt great for HT, however you could consider using a umo, which lets u mount motors outside or a um2 with heatsinks plus fans on the motors, u will sure need a heater pad from keenovo or any other company you find fit, wish you success in your quest to print ultem9085

Regards

Rajil

[rajilpahuja 38]

CF ULTEM1010 PRINTED ON A UM2+ USING A 3D SOLEX RUBY NOZZLE SPECIALLY MADE FOR 400C THANKS TO MR CARL OF 3D SOLEX, TG OF 217 AND TOUGHEST CARBON FILLED FILAMENT AFTER CF PEEK

 

[gr5 2,167]

I see your "second nozzle" reads 28C. Do you have a temp sensor hooked up there? Is the sensor sitting under the printer and measuring room temp (that's too hot for me, lol)? Or is it in the enclosure telling you interior air temp?

[rajilpahuja 38]

I see your "second nozzle" reads 28C. Do you have a temp sensor hooked up there? Is the sensor sitting under the printer and measuring room temp (that's too hot for me, lol)? Or is it in the enclosure telling you interior air temp?

Hi george, ya well its mounted on the 2nd head for Mark2, its near the printer and thats why its a bit warm around, well 160C head bed does make everything around a bit warmer lol ????

[gr5 2,167]

If you mount the temp sensor inside the printer you can use it to monitor the air temperature in there.

[rajilpahuja 38]

If you mount the temp sensor inside the printer you can use it to monitor the air temperature in there.

Hi george, yes if remove it from the head for sure i can use it to monitor the interior, right now i have a temp reader as well u can see mounted on the top left, that tells me the cabin temp all the time

[rajilpahuja 38]

Fastest Ultem1010 Print ever a superfast speed of 120mm/s and a awesum result as well the QUEEN

 

 

 

https://vimeo.com/247993907

[kmanstudios 1,120]

That is sweet. I like the metal look it seems to have too.

[rajilpahuja 38]

Ya the look is awesome, the nice golden look and its pretty darn strong too

[Ziogianni84 3]

What do I need in order to print Ultem with my UM3?

Would the special 3d Solex nozzle suit?

 

Is the diameter an issue? As far as I know Ultem is sold only in 1.75mm spools

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Heat will be the issue as the UM3 does not have the build plate temp or the nozzle temp, even with hardened nozzles.

[Ziogianni84 3]

1 minute ago, kmanstudios said:

Heat will be the issue as the UM3 does not have the build plate temp or the nozzle temp, even with hardened nozzles.

What about the Engineering High Temp (EHT) upgrade for Hardcore announced on the 3D Solex website?

[kmanstudios 1,120]

7 minutes ago, Ziogianni84 said:

What about the Engineering High Temp (EHT) upgrade for Hardcore announced on the 3D Solex website?

That I would not be sure about. I would have to research to find out....But you would still have the buildplate issues.

[Ziogianni84 3]

How did, who prints Ultem on UM2, solve the bed adhesion issue?

[rajilpahuja 38]

8 minutes ago, Ziogianni84 said:

What do I need in order to print Ultem with my UM3?

Would the special 3d Solex nozzle suit?

 

Is the diameter an issue? As far as I know Ultem is sold only in 1.75mm spools

Hi Gianni,

 

ok lets see what we can do, first thing is u need the bed at a minimum of 130C, if i am not mistaken i read somewhere that ultem sticks to a PC(polycarbonate) sheet for PC sheet 130C shud be enough, however this is experimental, so you will have to try, or else use a ultem sheet or glue, however glue doesnt work well for large pieces, about the buildplate u need to change in firmware and use a extra heater, u need a enclosure maybe gr5 has one for you, about 3dSolex also gr5 has the nozzles, i suggest using their nozzles because Carl knows his nozzles well, about printing 9085 u need atleast 360C for strong adhesion between layers, however printing slower u can use 355C,but this also will need changing in um firmware so be prepared to dwelve into the software, and just some info on new materials, there is also PPS(color same as 9085) needs only110-120C prints at 300C and takes upto 220C in the oven, which is more than 9085, however if 9085 is your calling i have laid down the path for you but you will have to do the hard work, also u quick question here for GR5 is whether u can use a e3d block on um3 ?

[rajilpahuja 38]

10 minutes ago, Ziogianni84 said:

How did, who prints Ultem on UM2, solve the bed adhesion issue?

Bed adhesion, i have put a few points, however the bed level must be really good, cause these materials arent as forgiving as PLA, so try to level with less than 0.05mm tolerance ?

[rajilpahuja 38]

39 minutes ago, Ziogianni84 said:

What do I need in order to print Ultem with my UM3?

Would the special 3d Solex nozzle suit?

 

Is the diameter an issue? As far as I know Ultem is sold only in 1.75mm spools

Here is the link for 2.85mm filaments

 

https://www.3d4makers.com/products/pei-filament?variant=18721200836

[gr5 2,167]

If I wanted to print PEEK or ULTEM the first thing I would do is buy a used UMO with glass (heated) bed (and possibly throw away the heater and keep the glass and metal frame bed).  I would move the motors to the outside of the frame so they don't get hot - extremely easy to do on a UMO - no hardware needed - no drilling needed.  I would cover the two sides.  I would get an all metal hot end such as E3D (but realize all metal hot ends are not good for PLA so this is a high temp only printer).  I would buy an AC bed heater.

[Ziogianni84 3]

Cool! Many Thanks guys. I'll follow you suggestions since it's worth a try!

What type of core should I buy? The hardcore pro one? Does it reach 360°C?

[rajilpahuja 38]

4 minutes ago, Ziogianni84 said:

Cool! Many Thanks guys. I'll follow you suggestions since it's worth a try!

What type of core should I buy? The hardcore pro one? Does it reach 360°C?

Only GR5 would know better on this