TOPIC FOR PRINTING HT FILAMENTS ( PEEK/ULTEM 1010/ULTEM 9085/PPSU/PSU) ON UM2+

[tiaguera79 2]

17 minutes ago, rajilpahuja said:

If its a PT100 then the UM2 board is configured for that, why would you do all this stuff ?

Because it would send me an error when reaching more than 320 degrees...

[tiaguera79 2]

3 minutes ago, rajilpahuja said:

And most grades of peek can print at 400C that is quite good, however for some medical grades is 425-450C

I need for Medical propose... 

do you have WhatsApp or telegram so we could talk?

[rajilpahuja 38]

6 minutes ago, tiaguera79 said:

I need for Medical propose... 

do you have WhatsApp or telegram so we could talk?

What i can see from your pics, is that you are using a volcano kinda hotend, not really made for this kinda stuff, you either need a e3d v6 or a dyze, for HT printing, and make sure that PT100 is rated for 500C, plus the peek you buy must be top draw else you will run into a lot of problems, specially with your medical application, also consider getting a ruby nozzle from 3d solex or ander osslon, those will be good for medical stuff i guess.

[gr5 2,167]

I don't think you need a ruby nozzle - I'm not aware that peek is harder than brass.

 

You can't use the PT100 with that AD547 board - so that's part of your problem.  The voltage out should not be 4.9V - it should be about 0.2V.  But that's because your using a PT100 instead of a thermocouple.

 

The UM PCB has a circuit on it that can measure PT100 directly.  You don't need any special electronics.  But you have to connect it to a different part of the PCB.  There should be 3 temperature in circuits.  You have to use one of those 3 connectors (temp1, temp2, temp3).  The special PT100 circuitry only connects to those three locations so you have to use one of those.

[rajilpahuja 38]

8 minutes ago, gr5 said:

I don't think you need a ruby nozzle - I'm not aware that peek is harder than brass.

 

You can't use the PT100 with that AD547 board - so that's part of your problem.  The voltage out should not be 4.9V - it should be about 0.2V.  But that's because your using a PT100 instead of a thermocouple.

 

The UM PCB has a circuit on it that can measure PT100 directly.  You don't need any special electronics.  But you have to connect it to a different part of the PCB.  There should be 3 temperature in circuits.  You have to use one of those 3 connectors (temp1, temp2, temp3).  The special PT100 circuitry only connects to those three locations so you have to use one of those.

@gr5 peek is not harder sure, but at 400 brass does loose its integrity a bit and i have a few worn nozzles, those high temps are really taxing on brass so better to have a ruby which is harder and wont loose shape, plus ruby wont really contaminate his parts as his needs are medical he says, thats just my opinion but you are more knowledgable on this

[tiaguera79 2]

1 hour ago, rajilpahuja said:

@gr5 peek is not harder sure, but at 400 brass does loose its integrity a bit and i have a few worn nozzles, those high temps are really taxing on brass so better to have a ruby which is harder and wont loose shape, plus ruby wont really contaminate his parts as his needs are medical he says, thats just my opinion but you are more knowledgable on this

I bought a stainless steel nozzle set for that. Is that better?

[tiaguera79 2]

1 hour ago, gr5 said:

I don't think you need a ruby nozzle - I'm not aware that peek is harder than brass.

 

You can't use the PT100 with that AD547 board - so that's part of your problem.  The voltage out should not be 4.9V - it should be about 0.2V.  But that's because your using a PT100 instead of a thermocouple.

 

The UM PCB has a circuit on it that can measure PT100 directly.  You don't need any special electronics.  But you have to connect it to a different part of the PCB.  There should be 3 temperature in circuits.  You have to use one of those 3 connectors (temp1, temp2, temp3).  The special PT100 circuitry only connects to those three locations so you have to use one of those.

I just figured it out after you said. I am changing the hole circuit and hope it works... fingers crossed!

[rajilpahuja 38]

6 hours ago, tiaguera79 said:

I bought a stainless steel nozzle set for that. Is that better?

Steel Would work but i dont know how good all this is for medical, for mechanical parts its all good:

[tiaguera79 2]

17 hours ago, tiaguera79 said:

I just figured it out after you said. I am changing the hole circuit and hope it works... fingers crossed!

It worked really fine! Temp error only above 403 degrees... guess I’ll try printing at 400 and see what heapens...

can’t thank you enough for you support! 

[rajilpahuja 38]

Just now, tiaguera79 said:

It worked really fine! Temp error only above 403 degrees... guess I’ll try printing at 400 and see what heapens...

can’t thank you enough for you support! 

Awesum !!! now try your PEEK, I m guessing it should be good, do show us some pictures of your work, I tried the sensor for 500C works till 415C will test for 450C and then  i am done, because i really have no application for 500C yet, who know maybe CF-PEEK one day, if it works well for a week i will give you guys a shout about it, and then i could provide this solution to all  

[rajilpahuja 38]

since you mention medical this product might interest you 

 

https://www.3dinx.com/english/filaments/peek-medtec/

[tiaguera79 2]

Thank you so Much! I am looking for a solid partner to help me out with my project!

cant thank you enough Rajilpahuja and Gr5.

and let me know as soon as you have those PT100 ready.

[rajilpahuja 38]

Happy Valentines Day Guys, here is a Ultem1010/Ultem9085 combo Rose to celebrate it ?

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Showoff

 

I am so jealous.....LOL

 

That is really sweet looking. So clean! What were you using for support?

[rajilpahuja 38]

3 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

Showoff

 

I am so jealous.....LOL

 

That is really sweet looking. So clean! What were you using for support?

Haha ?, no supports used actually this much overhang can be printed, without issues, and hopefully i plan to come up with a kit for HT in the next two months, then all can Print Ultem and Peek and it will be awesome ?

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Was the stem printed upside down separate from the flower? That may be where I got lost.

 

Does not matter, that is real sweet!

 

PS: Glad you saw the humour

[rajilpahuja 38]

Yaah, you can technically do a dual with ultems, but then two hotends sucking 40 watt each i really dunno, i guess @gr5 might know if so much power can be used from the board ?

Edited February 14, 2018 by rajilpahuja

[gr5 2,167]

If you have tinker marlin installed it has a feature called "power management".  You tell it how much power the bed and the nozzles use and what your total budget is and it will keep your printer from going over the budget - the printer already turns these 3 heaters on and off 20 times per second but with power management it makes sure the average "on" time in a given cycle (about 1/20th of a second) never exceeds the budget.  The bed gets lowest priority.

 

It's true that when all 3 are on you may go over budget for a few milliseconds but the power supply has a large capacitor (all power supplies do) which acts as a kind of battery that barely notices if you draw too much current for 50ms.  Of course if you draw too much for an entire second it will shut down.  Power budget works great.  Dual printing on a um2 with both nozzles in the same head - well that does not work so great for PLA but should be fine for high temp materials like ultem and peek.

[Labern 774]

Its pretty expensive filament but you are getting some very nice results. Cant believe how nice it prints.

Defiantly something I would like to work towards printing some day.

How strong is the layer adhesion? 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

54 minutes ago, Labern said:

Its pretty expensive filament but you are getting some very nice results. Cant believe how nice it prints.

Defiantly something I would like to work towards printing some day.

How strong is the layer adhesion? 

How strong is it in general? Can it take a whacking or a dropping?

[rajilpahuja 38]

7 hours ago, Labern said:

Its pretty expensive filament but you are getting some very nice results. Cant believe how nice it prints.

Defiantly something I would like to work towards printing some day.

How strong is the layer adhesion? 

@Labern the layer adhesion is pretty strong, if all the temps are right and once printed the print is very strong and resistant to a lot of things, and it is pretty expensive however this price will come down soon also and for other materials as well , the printers for this are also expensive, thats why I plan to make a kit so it becomes pretty affordable for all, lets see keeping my fingers crossed will inform you guys when i launch that kit.

[rajilpahuja 38]

6 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

How strong is it in general? Can it take a whacking or a dropping?

@kmanstudios it can sure take a whack, if its pretty well printed, you can whack it with a plastic hammer and it wont crack unless the force is really big, dropping and all doesnt crack it, it just looks delicate with its golden color and all, but its not, after all they use it in aircraft and automotives to replace metals

[rajilpahuja 38]

13 hours ago, gr5 said:

If you have tinker marlin installed it has a feature called "power management".  You tell it how much power the bed and the nozzles use and what your total budget is and it will keep your printer from going over the budget - the printer already turns these 3 heaters on and off 20 times per second but with power management it makes sure the average "on" time in a given cycle (about 1/20th of a second) never exceeds the budget.  The bed gets lowest priority.

 

It's true that when all 3 are on you may go over budget for a few milliseconds but the power supply has a large capacitor (all power supplies do) which acts as a kind of battery that barely notices if you draw too much current for 50ms.  Of course if you draw too much for an entire second it will shut down.  Power budget works great.  Dual printing on a um2 with both nozzles in the same head - well that does not work so great for PLA but should be fine for high temp materials like ultem and peek.

@gr5 this seems pretty informative, so there is a chance of dualing ultems, i might have a crack at it then once will show you the results.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

I wonder what you could use as a support material with this stuff.

[rajilpahuja 38]

1 minute ago, kmanstudios said:

I wonder what you could use as a support material with this stuff.

There is a breakable support available, and stratasys has a soluble one that might not be available