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Quadcopter ultimaker style

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Just to show a little how i use my ultimaker. I am not very interested in printing super high resolution nice things and i usually stick to my 0,3mm layer height.

The entire frame is to be made with my ultimaker = just print a new part if i crash and destroy something ..

Thins i have left to do is to design a canopy, a battery holder, landing gear, fpv camera mount and such,,,

I think i will put the quad up on thingiverse when i have a finished design...

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I also used 0.3mm layers for "not so pretty but very useful" items, but I found that the layers had a tendency to came loose from each other. I could also print an object just as fast at 0.2mm layers which provided much stronger results. (at thick layers the speed is limited by how much filament you can push trough the nozzle)

Any info about the electronics, motors and software you used?

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thanks for sharing, pretty neat build.

I am in copters as well and I yours look pretty well made.

You mentioned the high pitch sound in your video, well, thats not the high KV motors, thats the 8khz ESC. Have a look for 16KHz ESC and you will have, what you are looking for. A 1000KV rated motor would be the best guess for that size.

Maybe something to fix the arms into the cross, would be a great improvement. I tend to fly a bit acrobatic ;) and it would be a shame seeing an arm coming off.

Can't wait to receive my printer... I know, what to print first :D.

Is it PLA, or ABS? Will we find it on thingiverse? :D

Tried the GAUI in phoenix a few days ago... well... not the best simulation. It's many times harder in real life.



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I did analyze the sound, seams to be just 8kHz...

I only have an old oscilloscope and i was to slow to measure these high frequencies :-) So i did listen to the sound instead..

They are the gaui 300x-s escs (re-branded turnigy plushs i think), and it don't sound that bad in the gaui with lowe kV motors..

But now i have to see if i can reprogram them to be 16kHz and perhaps even i2c...

Or i just try different ones... I think the mystery 12A is 16kHz... Or do you know any other brand around 12A that is ?

It is 1000kv motor that i have ordered now, i got the 1500 kv because they was super cheap, and no data in the auction..

I have actually already thought of locking the arms to the frame, by having like a ring on the end of the arms (printed on the arms), and then the canopy would go over the rings and lock them.. Perhaps something similar with the motor mounts, a ring and a zip tie or something...

I only use PLA, and it works great, but i guess ABS will also be good or even better... (i have never printed anything with abs yet)

I think i will put it up on thingiverse, but not before it is complete... (when i look at thingiverse i don't want to see half done things)

I will write a post later what parts are needed to go from a ultimaker owner to a quadflier (motors, esc, radio etc.. and what the cost is)

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love the stealthbomber looks of the canopy. What would you think about a more bajonett style plug'n'turn solution to hold the arms to the center? Or just a cotter?

Interesting sound graph, didn't expect a second spike at 16Khz. I got 920KV Roxxy motors here, they whine terribly with any 8khz ESC i tried. Switching to 16KHz made them smooth. Propably lots of design, winding and other things are counting here as well.

I don't have a specific experience with any brand or type of 16KHz ESC, sorry, last ones I used was Hobbyking's 30A brand. Keep in mind, that the FETs on the ESC at 16khz get warmer than running them on 8khz.

Be sure, I will be the one of the first ones, that print this frame, if you like to put it online ;)....as soon as my printer comes...



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Quick side question. Is there a list of abbreviations for quadcopters somewhere?

I see "KV/kv" which my mind sees as "kilo volt", but that cannot be right.

"ESC" is... escape in my mind. Cannot be right...

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Hi Daid,

"KV" is the RPM/Volt rate without load (no propeller on it)... there are lots of discussions, if KV isn't against any norms, or not :D.

"ESC" is the electronic speed control, used to generate the high current pulse signal needed for the three phased motors, out of the (e.g. ppm) standard signal from the receiver.

Don't know if there is a comprehensive list of all terms used in hobby-electronics, but I would be grateful, if I had one. :mrgreen:

It's as easy as reading things about PEEKs and whatever terminology the printers come with, hehe.

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I printed it like this, no support, no problem at all with the large bridging gap..

(i don't even think it went into bridging mode, i use SF35)


Starting to look nice, but it is just a test, need to make room for the receiver also...


And it is also a bit heavy, have to reduce the weight a bit... Thinner walls..

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That's looking great. I've found 2.6mm vertical walls to be very strong as it's the lowest thickness to get filled. That is when using Netfabb. The next size down to give good strength is 1.6mm and then 1.2mm. But you'd need to work out the thickness for a sloping wall of course. You could get away with a thin top as this won't have any layer separating issues. Good luck and thanks for sharing.

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I did some modifications to make it smaller and also i change the wall to 1,6mm (old was 3mm), and printed, it worked perfectly, thanks for the tip !

(i use SF35 by the way, and marlin firmware.. I haven't got around to try more modern SFs yet.. )

The canopy is only for looks and water protection if it starts raining... I do not need to be strong at all...Weight is more important...


I got down the weight down a bit !

I printed it bottom down as before, i prefer that way if possible, it makes the visible top layer look better, then if it had been on the bottom...

It was a bit scary this time, but it turned out good, look at this video ;-)

The first bridging layer (that i don't think SF35 knows is a bridge) looked very bad this time, but whit the second layer over that, no problem...



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Great job on the weight reduction! What's the weight on the other parts?

Proper bridging depends a lot on the right temperature and filament rate. From the look of your prints it looks like your extrusion rate is just a tiny bit to low.

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I obviously need to work on getting proper bridging... wow. I've had worse results with far shorter gaps than that. Then again so far I've almost never had to use it so it's no wonder it's not well calibrated. Also, netfabb's circular skins are absolutely terrible for bridging, they should really do something about that, make it switch to hatch when bridging or something to avoid having to use the hatch pattern "globally". Or it might already be in the settings, I haven't checked :oops:

Awesome work on the platform so far though, you should submit this to Hackaday.com, they love this stuff and I'm sure it'd get posted :)

Oh and you should upgrade to a better CAD program. What you're doing now just looks painful to me :DAutodesk 123d is free and a fair bit more powerful than SketchUp while still being quite "sketchy" in nature.

Kul med en till Svensk här förresten ;)

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Weight for now is..

motormount: 13,9g

Arm: 16,1g (will be a little bit more with the locking ring at the bottom)

Center: 42.3g

canopy: 25,7g

total frame weight = 188g for now, not bad at all...


What remains is some type of landing gear and battery holder...

Also gonna have 2 different kinds of camera mount that also holds the video transmitter..

One mount should be light weight, with a small ccd camera and a #16 hd keychain camera mount...

(if you don't know what a keychain camera is, look at this video



The other should be a gopro mount..

It should be possible to change between the mounts depending what you want to do, video quality vs flight time..

Also i think the mounts should have a tilt servo for looking down, and for fast forward flight..

(the multiwii can do camera stabilization, lets say you fly fast forward, then the quad would be tilted forward and the camera pointing down,

but with autocamerastabilization the camera is always be level even if the quad is not)

I will try to increase the flow a little bit for my next print...

And do more comprehensive tuning and tests, before printing the final quad when the design is ready..

It is a mostly the inside of the canopy that looks very bad, very steep angle..

I like sketchup, but it do not run well in wine, so now i have to have windows on a computer :? (i am heavy linux user)...

I thought skecthup was very simple, i have been working a bit in blender before..

There are also a lot of plugins to sketchup ! Like sketchypysics, to be able to see how stuff like gears etc are going to behave..

Now i might have to test Autodesk 123d when i am finished with the quad to see what is is about :-)

Ha det gött !!!

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Note, I tried autodesk 123d and I didn't like it at all. It felt like they took their normal CAD tool, and "sketchuped" it. It didn't feel natural to use. When I tried to use it in a sketchup way it got in the way of doing things. When I tried to use it as a real CAD tool it lacked features. What I did like is the rotate cube in the top right corner :p

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I tried 123d as well... it's beta, lacking lots of features and has its own approach on constructing.

But some things are just nice, decent chamfer, punching, etc... super cool curved surfaces all around.

Actually I do my stuff in 3Dsmax, what is somewhere inbetween technical and stylish modelling. Especially chamfered edges, that have been booled, don't come out well in max.


well, I just love your project and thank you for keeping us updated about it.

Actually I am doing rather something similiar at the moment, but started with a 2DOF GoPro gimbal and drawed the copter around it.

Made some copters out of carbon and aluminum, this will be my first with own printed parts. Cross the fingers for me ;).

I like to have a dedicated copter for acrobatics, FPV, and gimbal...

Why do you waste your time with the keycam, when you own a GoPro? :D

The way the top layer was printed, just rocks! Awesome :D.

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(edited the image link, hope it works now)

Landing gear 24,6 grams..

Total frame now = 212.6 grams

Sketchup lacks in curved surfaces, i know that there are plugins for it but haven't tried yet...

I would like mesh smooth :-)

I want to have one mount with gopro for taking nice videos..(fpv via video out from gopro)

And i want to have one for just fun fpv, but since the keycam is so small, i just have a mount for it on this piece also...

(also less loss if something happens, while flying from my boat etc..)

The light weight fpv setup will fly much more agile then to gopro setup..

But i still want to have some sort hd recording if something cool happens, an eagle lifts of with a cow etc...

I think i also will print out dedicated quads for my purposes :-)

And i like to use cheap motors, like $7 motors, in my old quad i have $60 scorpions, and i have replaced a total of 4 of them..

(so what if they are a bit less efficient and i get a half minute less flight time, for the money saved i can get hours of more

flight time in having more batteries instead)

That was also the idea with the motor mount on this quad, to protect the motors when crashing..

I like to fly in forests and they usually contains a lot of trees that the quad can fly into :-)

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