Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Recommended Posts

I have an Ultimaker 3e and purchased a couple of Hardcore nozzles to replace AA cores to get faster prints.  I get max temp errors on both of the Hardcores randomly during and after prints. One of the cores is currently in the print head and I am unable to remove it as it trips the error before I can pull out the filament.  At first I thought it might have been some dodgy soldering on the printcore pcb but after trimming the spaces between the soldered connectors and the smaller connector on the side it the problem persists.  Could it also be the spring?  The tension of the spring on the Hardcores is much less than the original ones so maybe replacing those might give the core some more rigidity in the holder and sit better against the pins?

 

The original cores have worked flawlessly btw just the Hardcores are throwing temp errors.

 

I'm stuck please help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I didn't see this until now.  The first thing to make sure - push harder on the clear part until you hear/feel it snap in.  You don't have to do this with the UM cores but the hardcores need a little extra push.

 

Are you printing with the silicone rubber installed in the print head?  I was printing with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.3mm layers and the silicone pad was missing and that got enough wind inside to make it so the core couldn't keep the nozzle hot (now that I think of it, that was a UM core, not a hardcore - still - the silicone rubber helps).

 

It could just be a bad/intermittent temp sensor wire (or heater wire).  If it's the temp sensor wire you will also see the temp bouncing around.  If it's the heater wire it will cool a bit unexplicably and get heater errors.  Heater error and it's *usually* the heater.  Temp sensor error and it's always the temp sensor connection/wiring.  If problems persist you should ask the seller for a new hardcore.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. I Initially thought it might have been that so I pushed it in quite hard.  I've had two of these Hardcores for a few months now and the other Hardcore seems to be going OK after a firm push-in but one of them is still on the brink of throwing the error. How do I know this? The orange spikes in the graph below is the Hardcore reporting 700C for an instant. Not enough to throw max temp but enough to show the material compatibility warning on the display just like when a new printcore or material is inserted.
PrintCoreShennanegans.thumb.PNG.bc578362c491b752377a3c0eb64fe51e.PNG

20180322_154719.thumb.jpg.2cd2008a451f3b056a9ba5952a6ce2a2.jpg

Eventually I know this will turn into max temp errors after a while.  

 

My silicone pad is on OK I also print with 0.8 and 0.3 and sometimes with PETG it can get pushed around but I always make sure to re-seat it.

 

I have tried desoldering the temp sensor on the back of the print core removing the connectors and resoldering the wires back on.  While I had it disconnected I tested the sensor by wiggling dropping and flicking it while hooked up to a multimeter.  Granted this probably isn't the best way to test I didn't have an oscilloscope handy at the time.  On the weekend I'm going to try a higher tension spring and maybe a shim behind the print core PCB to ensure the connections stay firm.  If it persists after that I'll lean more towards suspecting the PT100.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

700C would be an open.  Look at the gold contacts on the hardcore - you should see a dash.  A horizontal line where it's making contact in your print head.  It might be the line is too high or too low.  Or you might just have a bad temp sensor.

 

These temp sensors are difficult to make even though the factories that make them make hundreds of thousands of them.  They can't use solder because normal solder melts at 200C and even high temp solder melts at 250C.  So they use some kind of tiny clamps.  Each time they heat and cool they expand and contract.

 

I'd tell your reseller and send it back and get a new one.  3dsolex can take it apart and throw away the temp sensor and use most of the parts in your core for a new core.  Reuse is better than recycle.  Did you buy it direct from 3dsolex?  Or did you buy it from a reseller?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have the same problem, the AA hard core has worked half hour and now give temp error and  some times the printer don't recognize it and display slot empty

the strange is that in the 3DSolex web page there in not a contact email !!!!!

IMG_2104.thumb.JPG.0f0be7f3a58db1b1555e948880fa18da.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lorix try tightening some of the bolts on the print head and see what happens.  I've just over-tightened the back two top side bolts and the bolt behind the print head that holds the PCB inside.  No open circuits on either print core for the last two prints.  I'm thinking these broke free of their thread lock and are causing the print cores to miss-align with the connector on the PCB.  The Hardcores are more susceptible to this because they are slightly different to the original ultimaker cores.  I'll let you know how it goes but this looks like it could be the problem and not the temp sensor itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the problem was the PT100, i have contact Carl, that has send me the replace part in few time

the wire was damaged, and probably after the first half hour with the high temperature the damage was irreversible

 

IMG_2225.thumb.JPG.1ec7ebb84e26a9504c3630f9e0e0b7d9.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well at least yours was obvious lol.  Tightening the print head bolts has worked a treat so far.  I only get spikes upon heatup and cooldown from whichever hardcore is in slot one.  That corresponds to the left back bolt that was loose causing the print core to drop and the left most pin to slide off the print core pad at random.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 25 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 23 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!