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Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

HAH! I found retraction hell print!! And, with PVA supports too :)

DSC02121.thumb.JPG.6e184d301caea2210326c208df730576.JPG

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Posted (edited) · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

I would like to go on with testing.

Any idea what setting I should change?

Or should I try other test objects?

Edited by Dragon2781

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

I would break the monotony at this point and move on to something else. Sometimes I find that changing things up spurs an observation that becomes salient in other places. It just takes a different set of visual feedback for me to make a connection sometimes. But, that is me...I am odd that way......

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Posted (edited) · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

@kmanstudios I'd never attempt to print so many things at the same time, I'd fear to loose everything if something topples or there's a hiccup in power or whatever... But, that was such a lovely sight for a fan of sci-fi like me! ;)

Edited by Brulti

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3
24 minutes ago, Brulti said:

@kmanstudios I'd never attempt to print so many things at the same time, I'd fear to loose everything if something topples or there's a hiccup in power or whatever... But, thatw as such a lovely sight for a fan of sci-fi like me! ;)

Had me own lil' geekgasm there meself :)

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

OK I just printed an other Benchy with Auto Leveling off. The Black PLA is gone now and the Benchy is absolutely identical.

The Auto Leveling has no influence at any issues. I will activate it again.

 

I change to yellow UM-PLA now and print the bathtub boat:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2631794

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

All I know is "griffin" is the name of the python code folder for the firmware on the UM3.  I think "Griffin" was the code name for the UM3 before they went through their laborious 2 month marketing process of picking a name (just joking about the process).  Engineering knows to never assume what the name of the next product will be.

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

Okay so I just looked at your bench photos.  In the hull there are two slits - those look like underextrusion - either the Z moved too far for those layers or a filament tangle or...  not sure what.

 

The diagonal lines are a known issue called "zebra stripes" in this forum.  Google "site:ultimaker.com zebra stripes" (the first part limits the search to this website) and you can read many pages of information - the problem was figured out 100% and solved with two different possible hardware mods.  I sell one of them (tl-smoother) but I don't recommend you modify - for me personally I rarely print things that the zebra stripes show up on.  So it's not a big deal for me personally.  They are caused because every 16th step doesn't move far enough (steps 15 and 16 are weaker magnetic fields for the stepper).  They are most obvious on flatt(ish) surfaces that are *not* parallel to any of the 3 planes (z,y,z) yet are *almost* parallel.  Bench's walls are neither plumb vertically (thay slant outward away from the center of the boat) nor are they parallel to any other axis ( put another way the boat house is wider at the top and front of the boat).

 

Now you have a 3rd issue called "ringing".  This is when you go around a corner and you see little waves of that pattern emanating next to that.  The most common case of this is text on a flat surface.  It has to do with the rubber belts vibrating when one axis stops suddenly while the other axis is now moving.  You can tell because the ringing fades out after a cm or so.  This issue isn't as bad on a UM2 as the UM3 head is heavier.  It can be eliminated by lowering the acceleration (and this is done in cura but you can lower it even more - 1000 mm/sec/sec should be enough - at least on a UM2 that removes it completely - maybe google accelration and ringing tests or something (include site:ultimaker.com).

 

Both of these later two problems are most visible on dark shiny filaments as you only see this because the shiny filament is reflecting specular light (direct reflection).  Optical reflections can show off tiny imperfections normally impossible to see especially if there is a repeating pattern.  Flat (matte) filaments like woodfill and CF fill hide this quite a bit.  There aren't a lot of matte filaments out there as PLA tends to be very shiny but there are some.  I like the protopasta ones.  I'm not sure but I think all there HT PLA are matte.

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3
14 hours ago, gr5 said:

Okay so I just looked at your bench photos.  In the hull there are two slits - those look like underextrusion - either the Z moved too far for those layers or a filament tangle or...  not sure what.

When the Z moved to far, what can I do?

 

Quote

 I sell one of them (tl-smoother) but I don't recommend you modify 

Can you please give me a link to your mod?

 

Quote

 

Now you have a 3rd issue called "ringing".  This is when you go around a corner and you see little waves of that pattern emanating next to that. ... It has to do with the rubber belts vibrating when one axis stops suddenly while the other axis is now moving. ....It can be eliminated by lowering the acceleration (and this is done in cura but you can lower it even more - 1000 mm/sec/sec should be enough

 

My accelleration is at 800 for infill, 200 for outer walls and 100 for inner walls and I still have this problem. Can I do something else? Should I somhow tension the belts? I'm new to 3D printing and I have no idea how tight they should be. So I can not say if they are tight enough.

 

 

20180217_101049.jpg

ezgif.com-video-to-gif.gif

Edited by Dragon2781

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Posted (edited) · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

PRINT #04

More and faster Retraction, Lower Flow

Settings.png

 

 

I tried to compensate the stringing but.... what else can I do about the stringing?

20180218_095814.jpg20180218_095823.jpg

 

 

The V3 Test looks ok to me except the tollerance test (the 6 gaps below the 'V3' font)

They are molten together. This is not acceptable in my opinion and I think this is the same issue as the bulgy corners on the Cube.

Please can anybody tell me what I can do about that?

20180218_095754.jpg

 

20180218_095709.jpg

20180218_095717.jpg

20180218_095738.jpg

20180218_095653.jpg

20180218_095701.jpg

Edited by Dragon2781

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

It's possible to get rid of the stringing completely by lowering the speed to 30 (for all speeds - we don't want outer shell down to 9mm!) and lowering the temperature another 10C.  But I don't think it's worth it.  Those strings you have are so tiny and whispy they are easy to remove.  If you practice (practice with failed prints) putting them near heat you can make the whispy stuff melt into themselves and disappear or just scrape them off.  Bad strings are horizontal.  Whispy strings are vertical like yours.

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Posted (edited) · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

OK, forget the stringing, I don't want to get any slower speeds.

 

But what can I do about that?

20180218_095754.jpg.e7f033ce798062ca10e8aa76a96ca22d.jpg

I think that's the same problem as the bulgy corners on the Cube.

 

 

Edited by Dragon2781

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

That could be a temp issue. What temp are you printing at?

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

Thanks for taking the time to post the image again. But it is difficult to read. So, since you made me squint really frikkin' hard to just read 200...I will suggest cutting it back to 195 or even 190. But do the 195 first.

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

? ...when you click the picture and it opens in a new window, you can click it again to zoom in.

 

OK I will try with 195 when I'm home. THX

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3
25 minutes ago, Dragon2781 said:

? ...when you click the picture and it opens in a new window, you can click it again to zoom in.

 

OK I will try with 195 when I'm home. THX

I am aware of how it works. But it still gave me issues with a massive headache pounding. Not everybody is a young buck with perfect eyesight. I asked for the temp because it was difficult to read. That is all. Assuming I am not reading the posts or the images and then just copy/pasting kinda negates the attempt to help if you just make me work that much more to do so.

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

Sorry, I'm glad that you try to help me. Posting the picture instead of typing the letters should not offend you.

BTW on my monitor the written text is smaller than the text in the picture after I opend it.

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3
2 hours ago, Dragon2781 said:

Sorry, I'm glad that you try to help me. Posting the picture instead of typing the letters should not offend you.

BTW on my monitor the written text is smaller than the text in the picture after I opend it.

Posting the picture did not offend me. Assuming I did not know how to see the picture did a bit. And, the text is a bit greyed out on my monitor. I am not going to debate what we each think is the easier read. I just tried to point out that it is a reasonable request to have the information presented differently. That is all.

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3
44 minutes ago, Dragon2781 said:

Sadly no changes with lower temp. Even with 190°C

I am stumped then.

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Posted · Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

A suggestion: if it isn't a settings problem, then maybe it is a hardware problem?

 

@Dragon2781 Do you have another AA printcore you can swap to make your tests again? Maybe the printcore has a tiny defect, the hole is a bit too wide or something?

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