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Tip: Bed adhesion


SandervG

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Hmm. Low density may not be an option with some cavities, but curious how this would work say on a smaller scale in a humanoid figure. The cross (1% grid infill ) in is my most common choice currently with an offset to the closest cavity areas. But when its an uneven model with multiple cavities it gets trickier. Still a bottemless print option would be preferential to me as its a real drain on time. I can waste up to 4hrs just waiting forcthe bottom layer, and it gets very frustrating knowing the rest only takes about 2 hours!! Such a waste of time. I spoke to someone in cura about this and they said it could be possible to convert the bottom layers into infill. Then you could just select 0 or 1 or whatever and the geometry would be accounted for. This would be such an awesome time saving option. Control over the initial single bottom layer. Please devs give me control!!!! I beg you.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Wasn't there an option in Cura in which you could shift a second model into the first one, to modify the infill? So, if you would make a second model sitting on the glass, and change that to zero wall width, and x % infill? Then shouldn't that give an infill-only bottom plate?

    (I don't have the latest Cura version, so I don't know this, but I vaguely seem to remember reading about it: was that you kmanstudios who used that technique in your gyroid-filled statues? Or was it gr5?)

     

    Second option: maybe in CAD you could use the shell only of your model? Thus turn it into a surface instead of solid, then delete the bottom plate, and then thicken that shell to maybe 0.8mm? And then add a custom brim for stability while printing? I don't know if your CAD program allows this, but it might be worth trying?

     

    Then you could just pour in gypsum. Normal gypsum won't work with a gyroid infill: it is way too viscous. You would have to use epoxy instead. Unless you have a special gypsum vibrator equipment to make it flow better. I am talking about powerfull dental gypsum vibrators here, which can bring a whole wall into resonance, not about the more gentle woman things.  :-)

     

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Sounds interesting. But i suck at cura. An option to not print the bottom layers would be easier. I could always just moddel it hollow or with a conical base or something. Worrying about thickness is annoying as its size dependant and i dont even want to think about that stuff with a model that hasca fixed shell thickness. I print random sizes often or just to finish filament off so a hollow model would not allow for this random behaviour. Unless im mistaken and there is an inside shell thickness mode or sonething? I guess ill just have to come up with a time compromise. As modelling takes time as does messing in cura.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Howdy,

    I am printing nylon (UM3) and cannot find a solution for the problem shown with he brim. The 5mm brim is nylon, build plate heat is 60C. The upper part of the image shows the beginning of what I am trying to print; a rounded bottom, hollow capsule, with a hole in the end. Of course, the brim will not firmly hold the capsule and the print fails before it is completed. The capsule is 15mm L and 9mm D and the wall thickness is .625mm. I am using .156 line width with a wall count of 4, printing temp 230C and Print Thin Walls.

    What makes it so puzzling is that I can get a good brim then this happens. For now, I have switched to PVA for brim to see if I can work around the issue. I would appreciate a bit of help with this...I am behind schedule and a team is waiting for me.

    Cheers, Whiteknuckle

     

     

     

     

    IMG_2116.thumb.JPG.0ce1a258e28c70f26fa5ac43e02ea969.JPG

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Hi, New to this forum, but I have been mucking about with various ways of sticking/holding ABS, ASA, PETG, I do use PLA occasionally.

     

    Dimafix-I have 2 glass beds that are unusable as it pulled chips of glass out of the beds when printing PETG.

    I only use dimafix on a non-pourous tape.  Masking tape, Kapton, 80°C to 100 no cooling, heat till end

     

    PVA Liquid Glue, diluted 50/50 with clean water, I use a squeegee to get a smooth coat, left to dry, then print ABS, PETG 80°C to 100 no cooling.

    One trick I have learned is to watch the first layers, if they start to lift, a drop of acetone at the edge, runs under the print and seems to stick the print down.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else.

     

    The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan, all worked great again. I found that I'm able to turn it back on once the first layer is down.

     

    For reference this was using Ultimaker PLA on an Ultimaker 3. Ambient temperature 75f. All settings as default for UM PLA.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Another tip when your ABS print still starts wobbling and being dragged arround by the printhead:

    Print a brim arround it and once the printer has printed that, tape it to the bed (pause printing if necessary).

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Magigoo has been working flawlessly for us here.

    Goes on easy, allows me to run a lower 50C bed temp and washes off easily with water.

    Once your bed has dropped to room temp, in most cases you can just pick your prints off.

     

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I have been using https://www.cupotek.com/Bote-de-laca-3D-400ml and it worked fine, so far I am happy, no complaints.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I have a strange problem with warping. Ever since we have an air manager on our S5 warping on the parts seems to have increased. See this image of a badly warped part.

    This was printed in using 'fine' settings with 'Jupiter' PLA with the heat bed temp on 65 C and the fan speed to 50%. As an adhesive I used hair spray.

     

    Any other things I should defintely try?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    afbeelding.png.cec5b5200db2aef8bd7c8890655ea42f.png

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
    1 hour ago, Niels_Amstel_Engineering said:

    I have a strange problem with warping. Ever since we have an air manager on our S5 warping on the parts seems to have increased. See this image of a badly warped part.

    This was printed in using 'fine' settings with 'Jupiter' PLA with the heat bed temp on 65 C and the fan speed to 50%. As an adhesive I used hair spray.

     

    Any other things I should defintely try?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    afbeelding.png.cec5b5200db2aef8bd7c8890655ea42f.png

     

    From the image it looks like its not warped up off the build plate, is that right? But it looks like its caved in on the corners, if that's what you mean thats because the layers below are to hot still so can not support the weight above.

     

    For PLA you really want the fan's on 100% to cool the filament as its placed down as its got a low melting point it needs to be cooled fast so it can support its own weight. The bed temp is also a little high, so if the prints not coming free from the glass then i would personally drop that down to 50c.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    The problem probably had to do with the rubber protection around the nozzle that has been broken.

    I ordered a replacement, hopefully this will fix the problem!

     

    afbeelding.png

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    Posted (edited) · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Does anyone know if using g-code i can turn off the bed temperature?

    Somehow having all the time the bed temperature and the fan from the nozzle the part will shrink and doesn't stick to the plate.

     

    A g-code will solve many of the problems we have.

     

    This is my result and problem.
    http://www.class-a-strak.com/XBO/WTF/XBO_WTF_CURA____001.jpg

    This was printed on the Anycubic CHIRON 3d printer with fine profile in Cura 4.1

     

    I will appreciate any help.
    Thanks!

    Edited by byxart
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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
    4 hours ago, byxart said:

    Does anyone know if using g-code i can turn off the bed temperature?

    Somehow having all the time the bed temperature and the fan from the nozzle the part will shrink and doesn't stick to the plate.

     

    A g-code will solve many of the problems we have.

     

    This is my result and problem.
    http://www.class-a-strak.com/XBO/WTF/XBO_WTF_CURA____001.jpg

    This was printed on the Anycubic CHIRON 3d printer with fine profile in Cura 4.1

     

    I will appreciate any help.
    Thanks!

    you can turn them both off in Cura..    good luck

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
    7 hours ago, JTMD said:

    you can turn them both off in Cura..    good luck

     

    Thanks!

    Now I need the g-code.

     

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Something I've found really helps bed adhesion for me (PLA on glass bed) is to clean the bed with methylated spirts before each print. (Sorry if some has mention this before)

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Hey Hive mind!

     

    Im having problems getting my prints outs to come off the printing bed. They are so stuck on that I am going through adhesion mats like crazy!

     

    I have a monoprice mini select 2. I Am using PLA filament.

     

    Thanks bunches!

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Pull off the build surface with the print on it and put it in the refrigerator for 15 or 20 minutes.  If you don't want the down time then purchase another build surface so you have a spare to put in right away.

    The difference in the coefficient of expansion of the build surface vs the PLA is enough that the prints usually pop off.  A little tap with a spatula or small putty knife at the base of the print can help to persuade it.

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I shall give this a try! Thank you so much for your help!

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    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I'm thinking about getting a "bed level sensor". However, I don't know how it exactly works. How is the distance from the sensor tip to the nozzle tip dialed in? Is there some offset in the software you have to tweak until you get result 1?

     

    If so, WoW should be, manually level the bed with "any" fixed distance (lets say 0.1 to 0.4mm), then use the level sensor and dial in the offset. Is this correct?

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    Posted (edited) · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Printers are essentially simple machines.  They are four axis robots that have a hot end instead of an "end-of-arm" tool.  Adding a BLT or CRT auto-level system is fine but it requires certain hardware changes and firmware changes to work correctly.  When they are working I guess they are OK.  They can be difficult to integrate into some printers.  (The word "Nightmare" has been used a lot when referring to BLT installation.)  I would think Creality has a kit for your E3V2 and it would likely require a firmware change to accommodate the G29 (or M420) command that calls the Auto-Level routine in the firmware.  A kit may not remove the word "Nightmare" from your experience.

    The probe is usually a spring-loaded switch.  The print head moves down and the switch trips.  The first problem I see is that the point in space that the switch trips at is slightly variable.  My Z stop switch is so inconsistent as to be useless and I don't see the same people who made that switch making a perfectly repeatable Z probe switch.  My piece of parchment paper is ALWAYS .05mm thick.

    By moving around and checking a bunch of points with the probe it builds a map of where the build surface is in space.

    The Z point that the probe trips at is below the tip of the nozzle.  The distance between the "trip point" and the physical tip of the nozzle is called the Z-offset and you have to dial it in so the printer firmware knows where the nozzle is in relation to the probe trip point.

     

    The problem that most people have with leveling by hand is using the LCD knob to move around.  You can build a simple gcode file that will do all of that movement and pause at the end of each move to allow you to adjust the bed to the nozzle.

    I went another way and wrote an app that includes printing from the SD card and a manual leveling routine.  Just click a button and the print head moves to the next point.  You just need to get your piece of paper there before the print head drops down.

    There are two attachments here.  One is a gcode file that would be copied to the SD card.  Print it before starting your real print and level with a piece of paper (CHEP has much the same sort of thing available on his webinar/youtube videos).  The second is a zip file containing Greg's SD Print Tool which is my interface for printing and includes a leveling system.  It is for Windows only as I code in VB which doesn't port to Linux or MAC.

    Here is the GUI for my app.  The text box contains my Ender3Pro's response to M503.  The app is unsigned and you would likely need to fool your anti-virus to get it to install.  Unzip the file and run the setup.exe file to install.

    1003353906_GUISDPrintTool.thumb.png.321096dcbdcc52c339aaa8ab91e051ba.png

     

     

    Gregs SD Print Tool.zip LevelWithTemps.gcode

    Edited by GregValiant
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