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Tip: Bed adhesion

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

@cloakfiend

With low density infill and low viscosity it could work, plaster might perhaps be difficult. 

There are openings in all directions in the gyroids.

 

 

image.thumb.png.8147fe33d647513fb8635ebaafe10cc8.pngimage.thumb.png.624fcf2b075382bec99c1386eef19ebf.png

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Posted (edited) · Tip: Bed adhesion

 As I said, it is a corrugated grid, and yeah, you would definitely have to use something low viscosity.

Edited by kmanstudios

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Hmm. Low density may not be an option with some cavities, but curious how this would work say on a smaller scale in a humanoid figure. The cross (1% grid infill ) in is my most common choice currently with an offset to the closest cavity areas. But when its an uneven model with multiple cavities it gets trickier. Still a bottemless print option would be preferential to me as its a real drain on time. I can waste up to 4hrs just waiting forcthe bottom layer, and it gets very frustrating knowing the rest only takes about 2 hours!! Such a waste of time. I spoke to someone in cura about this and they said it could be possible to convert the bottom layers into infill. Then you could just select 0 or 1 or whatever and the geometry would be accounted for. This would be such an awesome time saving option. Control over the initial single bottom layer. Please devs give me control!!!! I beg you.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
2 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

Please devs give me control!!!! I

User control is most appreciated firmware or software.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Wasn't there an option in Cura in which you could shift a second model into the first one, to modify the infill? So, if you would make a second model sitting on the glass, and change that to zero wall width, and x % infill? Then shouldn't that give an infill-only bottom plate?

(I don't have the latest Cura version, so I don't know this, but I vaguely seem to remember reading about it: was that you kmanstudios who used that technique in your gyroid-filled statues? Or was it gr5?)

 

Second option: maybe in CAD you could use the shell only of your model? Thus turn it into a surface instead of solid, then delete the bottom plate, and then thicken that shell to maybe 0.8mm? And then add a custom brim for stability while printing? I don't know if your CAD program allows this, but it might be worth trying?

 

Then you could just pour in gypsum. Normal gypsum won't work with a gyroid infill: it is way too viscous. You would have to use epoxy instead. Unless you have a special gypsum vibrator equipment to make it flow better. I am talking about powerfull dental gypsum vibrators here, which can bring a whole wall into resonance, not about the more gentle woman things.  :-)

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Sounds interesting. But i suck at cura. An option to not print the bottom layers would be easier. I could always just moddel it hollow or with a conical base or something. Worrying about thickness is annoying as its size dependant and i dont even want to think about that stuff with a model that hasca fixed shell thickness. I print random sizes often or just to finish filament off so a hollow model would not allow for this random behaviour. Unless im mistaken and there is an inside shell thickness mode or sonething? I guess ill just have to come up with a time compromise. As modelling takes time as does messing in cura.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Howdy,

I am printing nylon (UM3) and cannot find a solution for the problem shown with he brim. The 5mm brim is nylon, build plate heat is 60C. The upper part of the image shows the beginning of what I am trying to print; a rounded bottom, hollow capsule, with a hole in the end. Of course, the brim will not firmly hold the capsule and the print fails before it is completed. The capsule is 15mm L and 9mm D and the wall thickness is .625mm. I am using .156 line width with a wall count of 4, printing temp 230C and Print Thin Walls.

What makes it so puzzling is that I can get a good brim then this happens. For now, I have switched to PVA for brim to see if I can work around the issue. I would appreciate a bit of help with this...I am behind schedule and a team is waiting for me.

Cheers, Whiteknuckle

 

 

 

 

IMG_2116.thumb.JPG.0ce1a258e28c70f26fa5ac43e02ea969.JPG

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Hi, New to this forum, but I have been mucking about with various ways of sticking/holding ABS, ASA, PETG, I do use PLA occasionally.

 

Dimafix-I have 2 glass beds that are unusable as it pulled chips of glass out of the beds when printing PETG.

I only use dimafix on a non-pourous tape.  Masking tape, Kapton, 80°C to 100 no cooling, heat till end

 

PVA Liquid Glue, diluted 50/50 with clean water, I use a squeegee to get a smooth coat, left to dry, then print ABS, PETG 80°C to 100 no cooling.

One trick I have learned is to watch the first layers, if they start to lift, a drop of acetone at the edge, runs under the print and seems to stick the print down.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else.

 

The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan, all worked great again. I found that I'm able to turn it back on once the first layer is down.

 

For reference this was using Ultimaker PLA on an Ultimaker 3. Ambient temperature 75f. All settings as default for UM PLA.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Another tip when your ABS print still starts wobbling and being dragged arround by the printhead:

Print a brim arround it and once the printer has printed that, tape it to the bed (pause printing if necessary).

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