Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Good bed adhesion is one of the most important facets of 3D printing. When your print properly adhered to your bed you can sit back and relax while your print finishes. At the same time, when it does

It's a long video, I know, sorry.  But I packed in everything you need to know to be an expert at getting parts to stick to the glass better.  In the video I pick up an entire printer by the little UM

I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would

Posted Images

Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Hmm. Low density may not be an option with some cavities, but curious how this would work say on a smaller scale in a humanoid figure. The cross (1% grid infill ) in is my most common choice currently with an offset to the closest cavity areas. But when its an uneven model with multiple cavities it gets trickier. Still a bottemless print option would be preferential to me as its a real drain on time. I can waste up to 4hrs just waiting forcthe bottom layer, and it gets very frustrating knowing the rest only takes about 2 hours!! Such a waste of time. I spoke to someone in cura about this and they said it could be possible to convert the bottom layers into infill. Then you could just select 0 or 1 or whatever and the geometry would be accounted for. This would be such an awesome time saving option. Control over the initial single bottom layer. Please devs give me control!!!! I beg you.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Wasn't there an option in Cura in which you could shift a second model into the first one, to modify the infill? So, if you would make a second model sitting on the glass, and change that to zero wall width, and x % infill? Then shouldn't that give an infill-only bottom plate?

    (I don't have the latest Cura version, so I don't know this, but I vaguely seem to remember reading about it: was that you kmanstudios who used that technique in your gyroid-filled statues? Or was it gr5?)

     

    Second option: maybe in CAD you could use the shell only of your model? Thus turn it into a surface instead of solid, then delete the bottom plate, and then thicken that shell to maybe 0.8mm? And then add a custom brim for stability while printing? I don't know if your CAD program allows this, but it might be worth trying?

     

    Then you could just pour in gypsum. Normal gypsum won't work with a gyroid infill: it is way too viscous. You would have to use epoxy instead. Unless you have a special gypsum vibrator equipment to make it flow better. I am talking about powerfull dental gypsum vibrators here, which can bring a whole wall into resonance, not about the more gentle woman things.  :-)

     

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Sounds interesting. But i suck at cura. An option to not print the bottom layers would be easier. I could always just moddel it hollow or with a conical base or something. Worrying about thickness is annoying as its size dependant and i dont even want to think about that stuff with a model that hasca fixed shell thickness. I print random sizes often or just to finish filament off so a hollow model would not allow for this random behaviour. Unless im mistaken and there is an inside shell thickness mode or sonething? I guess ill just have to come up with a time compromise. As modelling takes time as does messing in cura.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Howdy,

    I am printing nylon (UM3) and cannot find a solution for the problem shown with he brim. The 5mm brim is nylon, build plate heat is 60C. The upper part of the image shows the beginning of what I am trying to print; a rounded bottom, hollow capsule, with a hole in the end. Of course, the brim will not firmly hold the capsule and the print fails before it is completed. The capsule is 15mm L and 9mm D and the wall thickness is .625mm. I am using .156 line width with a wall count of 4, printing temp 230C and Print Thin Walls.

    What makes it so puzzling is that I can get a good brim then this happens. For now, I have switched to PVA for brim to see if I can work around the issue. I would appreciate a bit of help with this...I am behind schedule and a team is waiting for me.

    Cheers, Whiteknuckle

     

     

     

     

    IMG_2116.thumb.JPG.0ce1a258e28c70f26fa5ac43e02ea969.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Hi, New to this forum, but I have been mucking about with various ways of sticking/holding ABS, ASA, PETG, I do use PLA occasionally.

     

    Dimafix-I have 2 glass beds that are unusable as it pulled chips of glass out of the beds when printing PETG.

    I only use dimafix on a non-pourous tape.  Masking tape, Kapton, 80°C to 100 no cooling, heat till end

     

    PVA Liquid Glue, diluted 50/50 with clean water, I use a squeegee to get a smooth coat, left to dry, then print ABS, PETG 80°C to 100 no cooling.

    One trick I have learned is to watch the first layers, if they start to lift, a drop of acetone at the edge, runs under the print and seems to stick the print down.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else.

     

    The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan, all worked great again. I found that I'm able to turn it back on once the first layer is down.

     

    For reference this was using Ultimaker PLA on an Ultimaker 3. Ambient temperature 75f. All settings as default for UM PLA.

    • Like 3
    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.

    • Like 2
    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Another tip when your ABS print still starts wobbling and being dragged arround by the printhead:

    Print a brim arround it and once the printer has printed that, tape it to the bed (pause printing if necessary).

    • Like 2
    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    Magigoo has been working flawlessly for us here.

    Goes on easy, allows me to run a lower 50C bed temp and washes off easily with water.

    Once your bed has dropped to room temp, in most cases you can just pick your prints off.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I have been using https://www.cupotek.com/Bote-de-laca-3D-400ml and it worked fine, so far I am happy, no complaints.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    I have a strange problem with warping. Ever since we have an air manager on our S5 warping on the parts seems to have increased. See this image of a badly warped part.

    This was printed in using 'fine' settings with 'Jupiter' PLA with the heat bed temp on 65 C and the fan speed to 50%. As an adhesive I used hair spray.

     

    Any other things I should defintely try?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    afbeelding.png.cec5b5200db2aef8bd7c8890655ea42f.png

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
    1 hour ago, Niels_Amstel_Engineering said:

    I have a strange problem with warping. Ever since we have an air manager on our S5 warping on the parts seems to have increased. See this image of a badly warped part.

    This was printed in using 'fine' settings with 'Jupiter' PLA with the heat bed temp on 65 C and the fan speed to 50%. As an adhesive I used hair spray.

     

    Any other things I should defintely try?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    afbeelding.png.cec5b5200db2aef8bd7c8890655ea42f.png

     

    From the image it looks like its not warped up off the build plate, is that right? But it looks like its caved in on the corners, if that's what you mean thats because the layers below are to hot still so can not support the weight above.

     

    For PLA you really want the fan's on 100% to cool the filament as its placed down as its got a low melting point it needs to be cooled fast so it can support its own weight. The bed temp is also a little high, so if the prints not coming free from the glass then i would personally drop that down to 50c.

    • Thanks 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

    The problem probably had to do with the rubber protection around the nozzle that has been broken.

    I ordered a replacement, hopefully this will fix the problem!

     

    afbeelding.png

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now

    • Our picks

      • Ultimaker turns 10: A look back
        Ultimaker is turning 10 years old and that means it is story telling time! We'll explore 2010-2014, traveling through the evolution of the business from the Protobox and Ultimaker Original, to the major leaps forward with the Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 3.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
      • Ultimaker Transformation Summit
        Visit our virtual showroom and learn more about the Ultimaker ecosystem!
        • 14 replies
      • New here? Register your Ultimaker for free 3D printer onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
          • Like
        • 4 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...