Tip: Bed adhesion

[Mechatron127 1]

Ok, so repeatability is not great with the sensors? Then I see no point in using one.

 

I have the CHEP code to level the bed, I use a regular piece of A4 paper and after leveling I turn the bed up by 1/8th of a turn (I think that's about 0,06mm with a pitch of 0,5mm), that seems to work the best for me.

 

Auto bed leveling would be very welcome as I know the center of my bed is sligthly higher than the edges.

[GregValiant 1,245]

It's all about practice.  I think that would be true with a BLT system as well.  The BLT will confirm that the midpoint is higher and it will build a profile to raise the Z a bit in that area.  I don't know how many layers that Z adjustment lasts for, but eventually it will be 0 and the gcode will just be read and adhered to.

 

There is a gcode command (M32) that doesn't get used much that will call another gcode file and then return to the first one.  The downside is you have to know the DOS 8.3 name of the file you are calling.  All files have a DOS 8.3 file name.  It can be a pain to tease it out of Windows.

 

M32 P !SAWWED~1.GCO#

If that line was in my StartUp gcode it would call the SAWWED~.GCO (actually named "Saw Wedges.gcode") every time I print a file.  There is more info on the MarlinFW.org site.  I've played with it and it works on my E3Pro.

 

I level before every print.  It takes maybe 30 seconds using the buttons in my app and most of that is waiting for the head to move.  So my prints always start perfect...and then I remember that I needed to move the Z seam and I have to abort anyway.  A BLT wouldn't help that at all.

[Andreas3D 0]

Hi, I'm having trouble with the first layer. I've tried different settings but I can't seem to find proper settings.

 

My goal is to get a good first layer without much warping and without a gluestick. I'm printing with PLA.

The majority is fine but it seem to tear the first layer in some parts.

Might it be a bit to thin first layer?

Too high bed temp?

 

Thanks for any advise! 😄

I've shared my profile and a picture of the issue.

Test 18, PLA.curaprofile

[gr5 2,167]

It's most likely that the nozzle is too far from the glass but it could also be that you got some grease on the glass.  Maybe from your fingers.  It's probably time to clean that glass with soap and water to remove all oils.

[javmaster 0]

Hi, I'm new to 3D printing and been watching videos and reading forums, hope you can help me. I have an Ender 3 v2 with a  BLTouch sensor, have calibrated the bed and got better springs.
I'm using Cura to convert my STL files to gcode, and most of the time I get bad printing with the standard settings (bad adhesion, lines, etc) but if I print one of those calibration cubes it prints perfect!!
Is there a way I can extract the settings from the cube gcode to use in all my prints? It comes locked and can't see any.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

-J

PD Attached are the files I use for your perusal.

CE3_Calibration cube v2.gcode CE3_Clear door latches V2.gcode

[cloakfiend 995]

@Mechatron127 until I got the s5. I was perfectly happy with my ultimaker 2 with the original black feeder and no autoleveling. I honestly dont get the htpe about auto levelint, sure its nice but its no deal breaker. If my s5 didnt have it, it wouldnt bother me. In fact I would actuallt turn off auto leveling during beta testing as it saved a minute or so and if i know its level whats the point of leveling it again each time I print? I consider it a luxury.

[GregValiant 1,245]

@javmaster - What did you use the "calibration cube" for?  Did it happen to be to calibrate flow?

[javmaster 0]

50 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

@javmaster - What did you use the "calibration cube" for?  Did it happen to be to calibrate flow?

Honestly, I was told it's what you need to "calibrate" the printer. I'm new and really learning as we speak, but thought it would show any issues with the settings, but it just printed perfectly, better than anything I've been able to do myself.

[GregValiant 1,245]

If you are confident that the printer is assembled as good as it can be, with all 3 axes at exactly 90° to each other then it's time to calibrate the E-steps.  That will insure that when the printer is asked to extrude 100mm of filament that exactly 100mm of filament comes out of the extruder.  When the ratio of "Volume of Filament In" is exactly equal to the "Volume of the Extrusion Out" then the flow is 100%.  There are lots of YouTube videos on how to do it.

The second thing is to measure the filament diameter.  Just because it says "1.75" on the package doesn't mean it's exactly 1.75.  Cura needs to know the exact diameter so it can do the calculations regarding Volume of Material.  The diameter cannot be changed on standard materials in Cura so you need to copy one and make a custom material.  Then you can change the diameter.  My Matter Hacker PLA is actually 1.72 diameter.  If I were to leave Cura at 1.75 then I would have a built in under-extrusion of 4%.

 

When those calibrations are done and the bed is leveled correctly then the material will have good squish to the bed and should stick.  If it doesn't then we can talk about other things like increasing the Initial Layer Flow in Cura.

[javmaster 0]

17 hours ago, GregValiant said:

If you are confident that the printer is assembled as good as it can be, with all 3 axes at exactly 90° to each other then it's time to calibrate the E-steps.  That will insure that when the printer is asked to extrude 100mm of filament that exactly 100mm of filament comes out of the extruder.  When the ratio of "Volume of Filament In" is exactly equal to the "Volume of the Extrusion Out" then the flow is 100%.  There are lots of YouTube videos on how to do it.

The second thing is to measure the filament diameter.  Just because it says "1.75" on the package doesn't mean it's exactly 1.75.  Cura needs to know the exact diameter so it can do the calculations regarding Volume of Material.  The diameter cannot be changed on standard materials in Cura so you need to copy one and make a custom material.  Then you can change the diameter.  My Matter Hacker PLA is actually 1.72 diameter.  If I were to leave Cura at 1.75 then I would have a built in under-extrusion of 4%.

 

When those calibrations are done and the bed is leveled correctly then the material will have good squish to the bed and should stick.  If it doesn't then we can talk about other things like increasing the Initial Layer Flow in Cura.

That's great information, I will go and learn about all that before I come back. Thank you very much for your quick and accurate response, will report back later!

 

[dubbsd 1]

last week I got in a hurry and when I put my glass back on my S3 I put it with the hairspray side down so when I started to print I knoticed nothing was sticking to the glass when it cooled down I had a hard time getting the glass loose from the  bed so I took red model paint and put a spot of paint on the top left corner of all my plates. now i know which side has the adheasion on it.

 

[GregValiant 1,245]

Poka Yoke

[jirodriguez72 18]

So for all our prints we use Nano Polymer Adhesive from Vision Miner, and everything sticks no problems. admittedly we print almost exclusively with CFF Nylons, GF Nylons, CF PC, and PC so it's worth the added cost for a really good adhesive. And one bottle goes a lot further than you think it will ( unless you're using way to much).

 

I start by cleaning the glass really well with rubbing alcohol and those blue lint free paper towels from Costco. Then apply the Nano Polymer Adhesive while the printer is cold - you don't have to cover the entire bed if you are only using a small area.... just make sure you actually print on the area you treat. After the print just let everything cool down completely and usually (95% of the time) the contraction of the cooling parts is enough to break the bond with the glass. But occasionally you might have to do some light scraping/prying.