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Posted · eSUN PLA Filament

Dear Ultimakers,

 

I started using eSUN PLA Black filament, the recommended temperature on the filament saying 190-220C, I begun with 200C & print would not stick to the raft (after few layers above the raft the print would warp & detached from the raft), I  increased printing temperature by 5C each test till reaching temperature 235C when everything turn OK with no faulty print & no show of over heating on the print itself. Is there something wrong as I went 15C above recommended temperature? (P.S. I always print PLA with no heated bed just blue tape & glue). I checked filament again if it is PLA+ but it says just PLA.

 

I used before Ultimaker Metallic Silver PLA, PrimaValue black & white PLA Filament, Polymaker White filament all within 210 & below without a problem. And just before changing to eSUN I was printing with PrimaValue Black PLA Filament at 195C. Same model without a problem.

 

Thank you in advance for your input.

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    Posted · eSUN PLA Filament

    No, you did nothing wrong. Each filament will have a different temperature range that's necessary for good prints. If you have an Ultimaker 2/2+ you may have reduced lifetime on the hot-end coupler at higher temps however.

     

    For the best experience, I'd recommend going back to the original Ultimaker PLA (yes it can be pricey, but it really works well).

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    Posted · eSUN PLA Filament

    Thanks for the reply to my question.

     

    I do not think its a matter of hot end being of low efficacy, as the printer fairly new, not to mention I just changed to PrimaValue Grey filament & printing on 195C without a problem. And the print is rock sold.

     

    If it was the case with all filament, then would say the hot end not doing a great job like the new one. But its is a solo event with eSUN filament.

     

    Is it normal for some filament that you need higher temperature than their recommended range? without thinking its a hot end fault as its always printing within the range with Ultimaker, PrimaValue & polymaker filaments, or still it might be a hot end problem?

     

     

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    Posted · eSUN PLA Filament

    It is certainly true that different PLA filaments will have different characteristics and may need different temperatures to produce a decent print with the same settings; not the norm but it happens. I am talking about "normal" PLA nor the PLAs mixed with wood, bronze etc. I have personally never gone above 220 and these days I rarely go beyond 200. So I think the answer to your last question is NO.

     

    Now  if people have a blockage in the feed system then not knowing or understanding that they may go to ridiculous temps to get the filament extruded - 235 is a good example:). If you printed the PrimaValue Grey after the eSun then I think you can say that your printer is fine. I am not familiar with eSun, maybe it is not very good or you just received a bad reel of filament. That does happen, I had to return a reel of Colorfabb filament once and they are considered to be one of the top suppliers. (to their credit I had a new reel from Holland within 2-3 days no problems). 

     

    Personally I would junk the eSun reel and move on.  

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    • 4 months later...
    • 10 months later...
    Posted · eSUN PLA Filament

    I am getting stringing at nozzle temp 215 degrees with eSun PLA+ silver filament. The packaging recommended a sweet spot of 210-215 degrees. I'm going to try 208 on my next print.

     

    Other than a few rogue strings hanging off the print, they filament looks fantastic.

    IMG_6700.jpeg

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    Posted · eSUN PLA Filament

    Those strings on the side don't have a lot to do with the filament.

     

    Those happen on filament changes when changing from PVA back to PLA.  The old nozzle is leaking a bit and there is this little string/noodle sticking out of the nozzle and when it starts printing again it gets attached to the side of the print.

     

    One solution is a prime tower.  There is an option in cura to add a prime tower.  Make sure the prime tower isn't in a rear corner - it does better in the rear center if possible.

     

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