Also does your PVA pop and sizzle? If so it got too much water in it. I've been able to "repair" nylon with water in it but have never tried PVA. Probably put it on the heated bed at 70C for a long time - maybe a 5 days? Under a towel or something. I'm not sure if you can actually get the water out of PVA like you can with Nylon.
The PVA is fresh. It prints out really clear, no sizzling or popping.
About your suggestion of smearing PVA for adhesion to the build plate, I don't think that's the problem because you can see the first few layers still intact. It actually breaks it off the brim. I'll run a few more tests and double check.
I've thought about doing something like this to the model I'm trying to print. But that means every model has the potential for this problem if there are any isolated support towers generated by the slicer. It may be the only solution for now.
kmanstudios 1,120
It looks like what you are facing is a basic height/width ratio printing issue. Those are thin supports going up and they can be prone to getting snapped off. Try using towers in the Support areas to see if you can create a conical structure that is not just a thin column.
You will fijnd two sets of controls that can help get this going.
In support you will find "Use Towers" and can define a min and max width.
In experimental you will find "Enable Conical Support" which you can again define additional parameters for creating conical support structures.
You can also experiment with the new "Tree Structure" feature in Experimental.
Keep in mind, you may have to unhide these features. I have had all my settings unhidden for so long, I do not remember the basic settings available.,
Did not see the conical option in the list. That may be the way to go.
I tried the tree structure but it slices in odd ways. This one seems useful on a case by case basis.
kmanstudios 1,120
As far as I experience, everything is a case by case basis. That is why it pays to know the options and how to mix n' match. I look at it this way:
It is like cooking. If I tell you mix this, mix that and voila, you have a biscuit, it does not help. But If you know what the leavening does, and the baking soda does and such, you can compensate for many things that occur on a case by case basis. It ain't the recipe, it is what happens with the ingredients.
Cooking? Isn't there take out? Better yet a drive through?
The conical option seems to do the trick. An odd thing is that setting the angle to a positive amount creates an inverted cone. The settings for this use a -7.5 degree angle.
Now if I could get rid of the threads. PVA seems to be really messy. I've got retraction speed at 45mm/s and retraction distance at 9mm. Still threads like crazy. Extrusion temp is 215. Any thoughts?
kmanstudios 1,120
PVA can be messy depending on structure. I just live with it.
Edit: Also, depending on moisture content, it can be really much cleaner or even more dirty than you see.
Edited by kmanstudiosYeah, the BB core is designed without a little "lip" on the inside of the nozzle that normally helps prevent oozing. This was a tradeoff so that you don't get carbonized material building up in there and clogging.
On 3/8/2018 at 2:47 PM, kmanstudios said:PVA can be messy depending on structure. I just live with it.
Edit: Also, depending on moisture content, it can be really much cleaner or even more dirty than you see.
I tried the experimental option "coasting" and it cleaned up some of the messiness
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kmanstudios 1,120
58 minutes ago, BlackCloud said:I tried the experimental option "coasting" and it cleaned up some of the messiness
I will try that...thanks!!
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gr5 2,069
Well you probably need larger (wider) towers. You can increase "horizontal expansion" for support. It defaults I think to 3mm but you could go to 4 or 5mm.
Also it's important that the bottom layer squishes really well. I'd put an EXTREMELY thin layer pva - invisibly thin - so for example use glue stick and then clean with wet tissue to spread it around (and to remove 70% of the pva). Hopefully the PVA will stick to PVA. Then also when it starts printing turn the 3 leveling screws a bit CCW as seen from below (try a half turn) to move the bed up and squish the PVA harder into the glass. This will stick much better and differentiate the problem of not sticking to the glass versus not sticking to itself. Think of this as an experiment.
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